Will the eibach pro dampers work with gound control coilovers?
Will the eibach pro dampers work with gound control coilovers
tymeks
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
The Eibach shocks are in now way suited to control those springs.
Those springs are monsters, and will tear up anything but the stiffest shock.
If you've got it lowered all the way, you might as well just remove them altogether. You're probably riding on the bumpstops anyway...
Those springs are monsters, and will tear up anything but the stiffest shock.
If you've got it lowered all the way, you might as well just remove them altogether. You're probably riding on the bumpstops anyway...
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You can use nothing else but Koni's...Set very stiff...This is the only way you will be able to get rid of bounce and get better handling...
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drew
fok
![Image]()
drew
fok
Its too bad that Koni doesn't make custom length dampers available (for the same car at similar low cost). The only problem seems to be the the Konis are designed to work with the stock spring height.
With the shorted lowering springs out there it would be awesome to be able to match the adjustability of the Konis with the reduction in spring height; shortened shock-body.
[ 12-28-2001: Message edited by: arskiker ]</p>
With the shorted lowering springs out there it would be awesome to be able to match the adjustability of the Konis with the reduction in spring height; shortened shock-body.
[ 12-28-2001: Message edited by: arskiker ]</p>
Shortened shock body is just one issue with regard to travel. P-51 didn't go into detail, but I think what he was essentially saying is that the valving on the pro-dampers is WAAAY to weak to be matched to the stiff ground control height-adjustable springs. They are around 300-450 lb/in, right? And the pro-dampers were designed to be mated to 150 lb/in or so...
The stiffer your springs are, the stiffer the shock needs to be.
Rule of thumb from what I've read, is to take the biggest bump you'd usually experience at the speed you'd expect to experience that bump, and then try to bring that oscillation to a stop within one down/up jounce. If your dampers are too strong, they'll end up doing some of the work of the springs, and you end up with a stress/heat problem. If the dampers are too soft, the springs end up being so strong that the damper really can't control it.
GC are stiff... Koni are stiff and can be set to full stiff if using heavy springs. We all know the problems with cutting too much ride height (especially out of MacP front suspensions), so that shouldn't be TOO much of an issue. IMO still a great idea to get a real set of complete replacement coilovers (and stop refering to height adjustable springs as coilovers, as you don't call struts/dampers by themselves coilovers either <- pet peeve)... IOWs, a set of struts/dampers that are -matched- to the spring rate and ride height of whatever springs are used. Otherwise, you need to be knowledgable enough to be able to match the valving and springs yourself, and you don't exactly get much testing experience. Being adjustable height wise lets you make small tweak adjustments in height and allows you to set your cross weight (what I believe the intention was).
[ 12-28-2001: Message edited by: Ducman69 ]</p>
The stiffer your springs are, the stiffer the shock needs to be.
Rule of thumb from what I've read, is to take the biggest bump you'd usually experience at the speed you'd expect to experience that bump, and then try to bring that oscillation to a stop within one down/up jounce. If your dampers are too strong, they'll end up doing some of the work of the springs, and you end up with a stress/heat problem. If the dampers are too soft, the springs end up being so strong that the damper really can't control it.
GC are stiff... Koni are stiff and can be set to full stiff if using heavy springs. We all know the problems with cutting too much ride height (especially out of MacP front suspensions), so that shouldn't be TOO much of an issue. IMO still a great idea to get a real set of complete replacement coilovers (and stop refering to height adjustable springs as coilovers, as you don't call struts/dampers by themselves coilovers either <- pet peeve)... IOWs, a set of struts/dampers that are -matched- to the spring rate and ride height of whatever springs are used. Otherwise, you need to be knowledgable enough to be able to match the valving and springs yourself, and you don't exactly get much testing experience. Being adjustable height wise lets you make small tweak adjustments in height and allows you to set your cross weight (what I believe the intention was).
[ 12-28-2001: Message edited by: Ducman69 ]</p>
I understand, that is perhaps why a shortened koni shock with correct valving would work best, even better than the current Koni, correct?
There isn't any dampers out there, for the focus, that has the rebound and compression of the Koni yellows; nothing is really working well with the GCs.
You could custome build some dampers, but at a fairly high cost.
There isn't any dampers out there, for the focus, that has the rebound and compression of the Koni yellows; nothing is really working well with the GCs.
You could custome build some dampers, but at a fairly high cost.
I don't know about that... The shock shafting is VERY hard to do. It's super fine finished, and SUPER hard. It's about the hardest stell you could find. I bet regular tool steel can't cut it. You probably need diamond cutters.
Well, if I get this lathe/milling machine, I want to build a coilover setup that has the upper spring perch integrated with the upper strut mount and a Camber plate. You'll gain one inch of travel, since the stock setup sits about 1-1.5" under the top of the strut tower.
Well, if I get this lathe/milling machine, I want to build a coilover setup that has the upper spring perch integrated with the upper strut mount and a Camber plate. You'll gain one inch of travel, since the stock setup sits about 1-1.5" under the top of the strut tower.
01' Excursion 7.3, 82' Scrambler, 91' Honda Acty, 23' Maverick Hybrid, 23' BWM 230i X-Drive
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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by P-51:
I don't know about that... The shock shafting is VERY hard to do. It's super fine finished, and SUPER hard. It's about the hardest stell you could find. I bet regular tool steel can't cut it. You probably need diamond cutters.
Well, if I get this lathe/milling machine, I want to build a coilover setup that has the upper spring perch integrated with the upper strut mount and a Camber plate. You'll gain one inch of travel, since the stock setup sits about 1-1.5" under the top of the strut tower.<hr></blockquote>
Like i said, if you have GC's, spend the money for the Konis, nothing else is available that even comes close. The length is something that you'll have to deal with and one way is too perhaps maintain discipline in your GC height. The only other choice is making your own...
[ 12-30-2001: Message edited by: ev1svt ]</p>
I don't know about that... The shock shafting is VERY hard to do. It's super fine finished, and SUPER hard. It's about the hardest stell you could find. I bet regular tool steel can't cut it. You probably need diamond cutters.
Well, if I get this lathe/milling machine, I want to build a coilover setup that has the upper spring perch integrated with the upper strut mount and a Camber plate. You'll gain one inch of travel, since the stock setup sits about 1-1.5" under the top of the strut tower.<hr></blockquote>
Like i said, if you have GC's, spend the money for the Konis, nothing else is available that even comes close. The length is something that you'll have to deal with and one way is too perhaps maintain discipline in your GC height. The only other choice is making your own...
[ 12-30-2001: Message edited by: ev1svt ]</p>
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