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anyone know the rules to stock classes?

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svtfocuskenzie

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I raced solo II for the first time this past weekend, and it was Friggin awesome!!!
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But now that I am addicted, I want to buy a set of wheels and tires just for racing that I can swap on when I get there.

I am currently in G-Stock, and I do NOT want to leave the stock class any time soon.
I am looking for a set of cheap, light, racing wheels (they could be those ugly 80's looking rims if they will fit my car and they are cheap).
But they might have to be 17inch. (please dont argue the size with me right now, I have already heard enough of that)
Do you guys know where I could find a set of wheels like that?

Also, what else can I do to my car but NOT take me out of G-Stock class??
 
#2 ·
Stock class will let you replace your shocks with practically anything out there. But with an SVT you'll find alot of people that will tell you to keep it stock. Also i think in Stock class you can use full race tires as long as their the same size as ur stock tires. Tires will probably be the biggest difference you'll ever see with any stock friendly mod. You can also change your airfilter "element". Now see the emphasis on "ELEMENT" you cannot change anything with the Airbox, just the physical filter itself.

I think thats pretty much it but i could be completely wrong. There are some other pro's in here that can answer all ur questions with much more detail.
 
#3 ·
Here is what you can do and stay in stock class. I have put them in the order I think you should do them in:

Stock size and offset wheels with race tires.
Stock dimension shocks.
Factory crash bolts.
Larger front sway bar.
Cat back exhaust.
Drop in filter.

Unless you are on a national level, most locals let you get away with non-performance enhancing items that you may add.
 
#4 ·
Assuming you are racing in GS open and not Street Tire 2 you can add:
Racing tires (Kumho Hoosier)
Catback - not sure why you would
Drop in Air Filter
Struts and shocks - not sure why you would
Front Sway Bar - not sure why you would
Small wheel spacers - expensive for H & R

Some items that dont seem like you would benefit much from I commented on. SVTs have decent items in those areas and probably wouldnt help anyways. BTW the rims you use must be the stock height 17" and width. Also the offset must be within a small amount (.5"???) Easiest to get a spare set of SVT rims to be sure your legal.

Just to confuse the issue you might want to consider not getting anything and concentrate on driving experience. No substitute for seat time. And getting new rims and then springing for racing tires is pricy. Plus it is kinda fun just showing up with extra air in the front tires and running.

IF you are in novice racing tires might actually hurt your training as they become a crutch for learning to be smooth and anticipating what the car is doing.

I have been autocrossing for several years and still run street tires and almost no mods. I run in Street Tire 2 in my area. If your area has it you might want to consider while you get aquainted to autocrossing. IF your in novice it doesnt really matter about mods. And after you get kicked out of novice you might be surprised how little mods matter
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr> aspire
you might want to consider not getting anything and concentrate on driving experience <hr></blockquote>

I totally agree with you, except that of two things:
1. The svtf tires are Expensive
2. They are already showing a lot of wear from one day of racing

Besides, my technique is perfect
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JUST KIDDING!
 
#6 ·
kenzie,

Ya tires will show some wear on the outside which you never see from just driving on the street. They should be wearing to the arrow imprinted on the tires. If you dont know what I am talking about look at some tires carefully. An upside down "V" on the sidewall. You probably needed to add air to 42 or so. As long as you did and the wear is approximately right it really is not a big deal. Just shows you are driving it hard at times. Your tires really wont wear out from autocrossing on the sides. It will wear the normal tire surface from street driving and the outsides from autocrossing. Rotate them once and a while and your good to go. BTW all 17" tires are expensive. Racing 17"'s are even more so.
 
#7 ·
If you don't wanna go full "R"-Compound tires, one of the Advantages of the Falken Azenis,(200 Optimistic Treadwear...), is that the shoulder is slightly rounded from the factory, so there's not a "Corner" to tear up.
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#9 ·
The Hoosiers won't last very long at all, but they stick like crazy glue. I say this from experience! One Prosolo=front tires < 50%.

Kumhos are the best bang for the buck, and have excellent stick, and are definately much cheaper. I've only had Victoracers, but I hear the Ecsta V700s are very similar.

One thing I recommend for the learning autocross driver is a set of Yokohama A032Rs. They are far from the ultimate grip, and are about 1/2 way between Kumhos and Hoosiers in price.

The biggest advantage is that they allow you to learn the feel of race rubber, yet will last about twice as long as the Kumhos. They are frequently badmouthed by the rich tire shredding maniacs, but they really are pretty good.

I currently have a set of Hoosiers for the big events like Nationals and a set of Yokos for local events.
 
#12 ·
I'm using Kumho Ecsta V700's on 17" wheels on my SVTF. The problem with the 17" is there is very little choice of track tires that fit. The best I could do was 205/40/17. I could find no Kumhos, Hoosiers or others in the 215 size, which is the stock size. Then next available size was 235/40! The 205 worked fine, but I had to up the front tire pressure to 45 to keep from rubbing off the outside shoulders.
 
#13 ·
My suggestion, get a second set of rims, either some more stockers, or some cheap alternatives with tires, and then get whatever you can afford for tires, the second set of rims is an investment in you racing future.

My first SCCA event a guy with Khumo racing tires would have all but given them to me to be rid of them as he was going to start scrubbing in his new set for the regionals, but since I don't have another set of rims, I had to pass, oh well.

Since you are running an SVT, a second set of rims may be costly, sorry.
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#14 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by V:
The one thing I never understood is how do you expect to get the R compounds up to temp? Plus if its raining your are screwed. Save some $$ and get Falken's
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<hr></blockquote>

Autocrossing R compounds are up to temp in a couple corners, whereas roadracing compounds take a while. On a hot day, I generally see a 5 PSI rise with the real sticky stuff... on the first run alone.

As far as rain, the A032R is an awesome rain tire... The Hoosier on the other hand are like installing ice cubes on all four corners.

[ 07-11-2002: Message edited by: OmniFocus ]</p>
 
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