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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by BerinG:
caus in the HCI magazine, they we're changed maf (pro-m) and got bigger injectors for a JRSC application and they had no problem .. and they have a jrsc too .. i just wanna do this on stock for now ..<hr></blockquote>

stock is more likely to be ok since the airflow won't be THAT much more. .. like maybe you lean out a little bit but it won't be THAT bad.. but if you get it wrong when boosting... well i hope its not my motor. but for boost that is a very risky proposition. from the successful deto free boosted ppl it seems like changing spark timing is a must for safety, not a would be nice to get more power..
 
the bootleg stock zetec EEC chart I have in front of me indicates 17.5 degrees btc at 5500 is the stock timing at full load, wot. there may be other factors that influence that, but the base tables show 17.5 at Aerocharger HP peak. So, SFMS users have @ 12.5/1 A/F ratio and 17.5 degrees timing at HP peak at 180-210 whp.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Just as a sidenote I would say for the AC kit the most important timing numbers are in the 2500-3500rpm range where the boost is highest. We made no advances at all in that range as anything much higher then 14 degrees resulted in detonation.
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>i hope someone sees this he took out timing and his egt droped not raised ,the fuel is being burned cleaner and none goes out and heats up the exh. or turbo<hr></blockquote>
It sounds to me that ChrisF said exactly the opposite Tom.

He added timing which picked up a few hp, but most importantly LOWERED the EGTs due to a more complete burn. He ADDED timing and his EGTs dropped, not the other way around.

Just agreeing with you that the added timing did little for power production.
 
ok.. eeeh, so whats good and whats bad ..

heat is bad .. heat = deto = engine go dead

is having less timing better? (less than stock at least) or not? (having more timing)

and why is it not good to have more timing

if for example i just get the Pro-M for now and get bigger injectors .. i won't need to play with the timing without any boost right?

Just the Pro-M alone has gains so if i am gonna get it later, why not buy it now while i wait to go turbo? i wouldnt have any problems would i?
 
Yup, the midrange is the most important for sure. 3000 rpm is maximum boost, and 4500 rpm is the maximum cylinder fill=highest combustion chamber pressures.

As RPMS go up, the time available for the precursors of detonation (yes, it's a chemical reaction) to form is decreased. Thus you can add timing back in.
 
These are the timing settings at peak load in the JFA8 LFQx & ZYF5 base spark tables:

500 2.0
750 5.0
1000 6.5
1250 7.5
1500 8.75
1750 9.25
2000 9.75
3000 11.0
4000 12.5
5000 14.0
6000 15.5

Now these numbers seem low to me... how low I can't say as Ford gave us no timing mark to reference.
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I can say that +2 adds 2 degrees and that is what really matters. So look at the shape of the curve more closely than the numbers.

Peak load on the these tables is Load=1.0 or 100% efficient. A stock engine will run perhaps at 80% where the setting are 1-2 degrees higher. I need to see the data from a stock car. Who has scan tools (Autotap or OBD-II Scan) that would send their log files to me??

Mike

[ 05-31-2002: Message edited by: TheChipGuy ]</p>
 
further discussion on this topic would be nice...
adding timing no good, taking too much is no good, so there is a sweet spot in there somewhere,
I am guessing it is pulling just a bit out right? not adding?
higher EGT would be a result of more timing right? since adding timing makes the highest compression moment closer to TDC right?
 
Originally posted by TheChipGuy:
These are the timing settings at peak load in the JFA8 LFQx & ZYF5 base spark tables:

500 2.0
750 5.0
1000 6.5
1250 7.5
1500 8.75
1750 9.25
2000 9.75
3000 11.0
4000 12.5
5000 14.0
6000 15.5

Now these numbers seem low to me... how low I can't say as Ford gave us no timing mark to reference.
Image


I can say that +2 adds 2 degrees and that is what really matters. So look at the shape of the curve more closely than the numbers.

Peak load on the these tables is Load=1.0 or 100% efficient. A stock engine will run perhaps at 80% where the setting are 1-2 degrees higher. I need to see the data from a stock car. Who has scan tools (Autotap or OBD-II Scan) that would send their log files to me??

Mike
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">That's strange (I know this is an old thread). I've got ZYF5 and got some detonation rarely while I was stock. Since adding Crower Stage IIs I had to switch to 89. I just assumed that ZYF5 was a more aggressive code.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Just a quick FYI. Im going back on the dyno next Tuesday to sort a few things out. Now that its below 0C on a daily basis here in Canada the car is running a bit rough (way too rich). Im pretty sure its just my air charge/coolant/barometric/battery modifier tables. Thanks to Fastrax and P-51 I have some better (as in proper) ones to use.
 
so do you actually have to have different programs for different conditions??

Does the pectel adapt at least a bit to weather change? DOesnt it have a air inlet temp sensor???

It would suck to have to constantly modify your car...
 
Naz, there is an air temp sensor, and the maps have corrections for fuel and spark timing. I'd have to have a look at Chris's temp curves again, but from what I remember... he has a curve, but it does not necessarily follow the thermodynamically correct curve.

These are the corrections that Detroit Speedworks screwed up on my system, and I had to fix.

No, you don't always have to retune as the weather changes. But you DO have to tune the modifiers right ONCE when the weather changes. From then on, you should be good.

Chris, what problem are you having? How do you know it's rich? From what I remember, your air temp correction curve is actually LESS than theoretical... So you'd be leaning out.

Is it rich all the time, or only when warming up? It might be your Coolant temp correction that is off.

I know that mine is WAY off as it came from Pectel. I'm probably cruising at 10:1 until the thing warms up.
 
i have another stupid question

With the pectel you dont use the o2 sensors any more right?

So the a/f doesnt bounce around like it does on a regular focus, where the a/f guage goes lean/rich/lean/rich the whole cycle thing to keep a steady 14.7 while cruising

What about in the pectel>? When just cruising what is going on? Do you just set a fuel table you want and thats it, so even when youre cruising you have steady fuel, a steady a/f guage that doesnt bounce around, but unfortunately ****ty gas milage>

What is your a/f during cruising, say 70mph on the freeway in 5th..

Just tryina figure out how bad the gas milage is gonna get with a pectel, mark says his is less that perfect
Image
 
The Pectel is only the size of... two packs of playing cards. You just velcro it to the side of the stock computer. You don't need to "make" room. Unless you've already go extra equipment BEHIND the glove box...

Naz, you can run either way. You can just tune it for stoichiometric while cruising, and run like that. This requires however, that you get the base maps PERFECT, and you also have to have the modifiers (air temp, barometric, etc...) PERFECT.

If you do that, you should be able to get 25mpg out of it. I don't know how much Chris is getting, I was under the impression it was 22ish. Still, not bad compared to a Mustang or SUV you could be driving...

The problem is, getting those tunes PERFECT, requires a LOT of work, you'll need your own Wideband, and a lot of time.

The other way to do it, is to just get them "close", (say 95% of Pefection), and then hook up the O2 sensor to the Pectel.

You can run either way. Whatever you want...

You still need to have your base maps well done, or you get some serious drivability problems (ask me...). But it allows you to slack off a little, and not be perfect with all your modifiers, because it will compensate for the weather for you.

Now, I caution you, you HAVE to be in the right neighborhood, because at WOT it doesn't use the O2 sensor, so you'll be screwed if you don't have the modifiers in the right place.

You should be able to get the base maps right, and have them "in the 14's" at cruise, across the board. Then, you can add the O2 feedback, and let it hit 14.7 bang on.

If you do that, I'd think you could get similar milage to stock.

I used to get 29-31 MPG stock. After I added the AC with 5th injector, I was getting maybe 27. It's just as good at cruise, but you get greedy with the boost, and burn fuel.

When I added the Pectel, right now I'm getting about 25mpg, and I'm VERY greedy with the boost because it's just too damn much fun, and the midrange is SOOO much more powerful than the 5th injector, it's addictive.

I probably boost away from 50% of lights...

So, I think I'm doing pretty good.

My only problem is the base maps are not great, I just haven't been able to since I wasted all my money on that dyno... 2 hours should have been plenty to get the base maps good, if the dyno operator wasn't clueless.

What happens is you'll be in one cell, cruising, and it develops a correction based on O2 feedback. Then, you speed up a little, you're in a new cell, and it keeps applying the old multiplier. If the new cell needs a different correction than the previous one, then it will be off.

The other thing is, with the Pectel you can input a wideband O2 instead. With this, you could actually tune for a lean burn cruise. You could cruise at 16 or 17:l, and maybe pull off 35-40mpg...

Edit: Okay, what does my O2 gauge do?

Well, if I enter a new cell, it will be either rich or lean. Then you see the correction happening, and it will pull the mixture to stoich. Once it hits stoich, it starts bouncing around like stock. That's normal.

Personally, I find the O2 more trouble than it's worth. Once I get a wideband and get everything dialed in, I'll probably just yank it. Just tune for maybe a 15:1 cruise, and then you're done.

You really don't NEED the O2 feedback, if you tune it right. You should be able to get the same milage without it. The only reason stock cars have them is because:

A)to compensate for changes in the car from manufacture, or age. It's an automatic compensation. We don't need this, because we should be constantly monitoring things anyway, and tuning for perfection. That's the point of the Pectel, to gain control, and tune it right yourself.

B)Catalytic converters actually don't work well right at 14.7:1. They NEED to be bouncing back and forth a few points either way, rich-lean, back and forths.... I don't know why. But... trust me, you can take that as gospel, I got it from a very reliable source.

[ 11-03-2002, 10:07 AM: Message edited by: P-51 ]
 
so in regular configuration, does the pectel still utilize the stock o2 sensor for closed loop? im gonna ask jon if he used the o2 on his and marks car...

kinda confused on how it would work if it did use it though...does it modify the settings you make in the pectel when in closed loop somehow, and if so, to what specs? Stock ecu or the ones you tell it???
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interesting...

[ 11-03-2002, 11:49 AM: Message edited by: nazthug ]
 
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