How much hp can the the stock crank handle.i know its now like the B16's where it can handle up to 500hp. i plan to go the nitrous route. im going to replace rods and pistons. i dont want to throw a crank
crank question
hotfocus
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
crank is fine as long as everything else is installed properly, **BALANCED** and clearenced, it will handle 300-400whp easily i think.
Mine's getting cryo treated though, its really the only thing i can do to strengthen it up a bit and its cheap, like $50 for the crank or something...so why not?
[ 08-08-2002: Message edited by: nazthug ]</p>
Mine's getting cryo treated though, its really the only thing i can do to strengthen it up a bit and its cheap, like $50 for the crank or something...so why not?
[ 08-08-2002: Message edited by: nazthug ]</p>
Naz, the zetec crank weighs approx. 34lbs. @ $6 per ppound, thats $204, not $50.
Anyhow, look into Kool Kaseing the crank instead of Cryo. When you Kool Kase a crank you toughen the journals, without hardening the core metal. This harder surface will last quite a bit longer, yet still has the soft core to allow a small amount of flex (to hard of a core would fracture before bending). At Esslinger we ran a stock crank over 10,000RPM and 260hp. @ the wheels N/A. The stock crank's biggest weakness is that it has to resist the flexing created by RPM, not HP. STR made over 500hp. with the stock crank, but they had problems when it came to RPM. It seems that the oil pump doesn't like billet cranks, or elevated oil pressure (necessary @ high RPM). At Esslinger we ran an external dry-sump system.
My take on the strength issues of the shortblock are as follows:
#1 thing to replace are the stock rods
#2 thing to replace are the stock pistons
#3 thing to replace are the puny main caps
#4 thing to replace are the head bolts
#5 thing to replace is the oil pump/ pan
#'s 3 & 4 should be done at the same time
On top, the valvesprings will limit you to ~7,600RPM, even less with decent amounts of boost.
Well, that's a little more than my 2 cents worth, sorry.
Brian
Anyhow, look into Kool Kaseing the crank instead of Cryo. When you Kool Kase a crank you toughen the journals, without hardening the core metal. This harder surface will last quite a bit longer, yet still has the soft core to allow a small amount of flex (to hard of a core would fracture before bending). At Esslinger we ran a stock crank over 10,000RPM and 260hp. @ the wheels N/A. The stock crank's biggest weakness is that it has to resist the flexing created by RPM, not HP. STR made over 500hp. with the stock crank, but they had problems when it came to RPM. It seems that the oil pump doesn't like billet cranks, or elevated oil pressure (necessary @ high RPM). At Esslinger we ran an external dry-sump system.
My take on the strength issues of the shortblock are as follows:
#1 thing to replace are the stock rods
#2 thing to replace are the stock pistons
#3 thing to replace are the puny main caps
#4 thing to replace are the head bolts
#5 thing to replace is the oil pump/ pan
#'s 3 & 4 should be done at the same time
On top, the valvesprings will limit you to ~7,600RPM, even less with decent amounts of boost.
Well, that's a little more than my 2 cents worth, sorry.
Brian
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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