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Need some help...

2.1K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  HuntinCooter  
#1 ·
I plan on getting an exhaust in the next few weeks. I wan't a fairly cheep 2.5" that eliminates the second cat. Can someone please direct me to the right place? Thanks
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#5 ·
The Borla at Draxas is $400. The other option would be to get a true bendz and have a custom peace added to remove the second cat.
 
#9 ·
Personally, I think once people start getting stuff like P&P heads, custom intake manifolds, cams, race headers, etc... all at once on their 2.3's, your going to see a need for 2.5" cat backs. It's a bigger engine, it's need's to breath better, right?

If it were me I'd start with a 2.5" just to avoid having to get it in the future if you find out it's worth a few lb/ft over the 2.25" ones.
 
#10 ·
exactly^^^^

truth is with all that torque you're making downlow, the tradeoff means jack in the end. I doubt you'd find even a deadstock PZEV suffering w/ torque loss.

by the time you've got I/E (not even headers, let alone cam, etc) you're prolly gonna get a significatn gain out of a 2.5 versus a 2.25
 
#15 ·
And a shop can't mendral bend the pipe.
We have several local shops that have a mandrel machine up here.
As far as the 2.5" vs. the 2.25" Over at the NASIOC (soob site) the best performance was by using a 2.25" on ALL Naturally Asperated engines. I know that this isn't a 2.5L flat 4 boxer engine that is producing 165 hp and 167 torque from the factory, then add headers, intake, and port and polish and you will be ~200 crank hp. Slightly more than the 2.3L.
If you are going to go forced induction then go 2.5"
Just for some reference the WRX and the STi both run a 2.5" from the factory, in case you forgot...the STi is around a 300hp/300torque engine.
 
#20 ·
And a shop can't mendral bend the pipe.
We have several local shops that have a mandrel machine up here.
As far as the 2.5" vs. the 2.25" Over at the NASIOC (soob site) the best performance was by using a 2.25" on ALL Naturally Asperated engines. I know that this isn't a 2.5L flat 4 boxer engine that is producing 165 hp and 167 torque from the factory, then add headers, intake, and port and polish and you will be ~200 crank hp. Slightly more than the 2.3L.
If you are going to go forced induction then go 2.5"
Just for some reference the WRX and the STi both run a 2.5" from the factory, in case you forgot...the STi is around a 300hp/300torque engine.
Exactly 2.25 is plenty for this little motor. I think it's funny on the 2.0 everyone ran away from the 2.5 inch and on the 2.3 (which is only 300cc's more mind you) every wants 2.5inches. 2.25 is a pretty well accepted exhaust size for n/a sub 3L 4 cylinder engines.
 
#22 ·
I just dont know what to do
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I also plan on getting a header soon, but then my flex will end at 2.5" and thats no bueno.
I'm just going with whatever FS comes out with. Based on how well their exhaust has held up in the Maine winters I dont think I'd trust anything else. A company that proves their products like that generally has me as a customer for a long time.
 
#23 ·
I just dont know what to do
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I also plan on getting a header soon, but then my flex will end at 2.5" and thats no bueno.
I'm just going with whatever FS comes out with. Based on how well their exhaust has held up in the Maine winters I dont think I'd trust anything else. A company that proves their products like that generally has me as a customer for a long time.
did you get the coated version?
 
#24 ·
Yeah I have the ceramic stealth version of the FS exhaust.
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#26 ·
So is there a flex out there that would start at 2.5 and end at 2.25? What is everyone running right now?
I believe Nik at Draxas said he can give you a Header with a 2.25" flex-pipe but does not recommend it, recommends the 2.5" and 2.5" exhaust to go with his header.