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The dealer idea is an interesting one, but I am not certain they have control over those parameters individually. I think they can only perform a reflash of the entire ECU assuming one is available that would fit your requirement - and I doubt that.

Some cars have a tension adjustment in the throttle cable, or a threaded stop on the throttle body, that allows for fine tuning of the idle. However, I don't recall anything like that on the Duratec.

>8^)
ER
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I've heard Walter mention drilling a very small <1/8" maybe 1/16" hole in the TB blade. I don't know what he was referring to, or what it was supposed to fix, but wouldn't that be the equivalent to holding the accelerator down just a tiny-tad? Enough to maybe increase idle rpm by a hundred or so?
 
If we're talking really dirty, you could loosen a hose clamp on your CAI. One of mine came loose a few months back, and the car idled at 2,000. If you were very careful of it, you could probably use that to raise the idle.
 
Any guesses to what vibs / performance might be like if I swapped the smaller bushing only back to OEM??
Now that you mention that...I was thinking about doing that when I put the poly bushings in the mount....swapping one bushing first and then trying it.

I can only imagine that the bigger one causes a majority of the vibrations.
So I'm gonna try the little one first and see if it's a noticeable difference.
 
Question: My Energy Suspension inserts- the big one, had a big lip with a cut-out in it, that in the directions, the cutout was to be facing directly oposite the small bushing. But when I put the mount back on the car, I could have swore that cutout should have been facing the other way. and does anyone know if that big lip should have been facing up or down when installed on the car? It all seemed slightly ambiguous to me.
Here's a pic of when I had my VF mount in:
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The ES bushing is notched out and the notch should point forward like this so it lays on the flat part of the metal:
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hope that helps
 
Is it possible to set the idle 100 to 200 rpm higher than stock without using any chip. Any easy tweak can I do? Is the dealer can do it for me with their computer?
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Yes you can.


You will need to go to your local ford dealership and pick up the idle air control valve spacer kit.

Part number F2PZ.9F939.A

It will include 2 longer bolts one spacer and 2 gaskets. You unbolt your iac and put the spacer in between the idle air control valve and the intake manifold.

It has 2 set screws that can be used to raise or lower the idle manually.

Keep in mind that after you make an adjustment to the idle you will have to disconnect your battery for 10 minutes and go through the procdure to re set your idle trims(listed in owners manual).

And that should do it.
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Discussion starter · #27 ·
Yep, that second picture is a perfect shot of the lip with the flat spot in it. From the looks of your first picture, I've got my inserts installed correctly. I still can't figure out what purpose that flat spot on the lip is for. It wouldn't have even made installation any easier.

If you do go back to the OEM small bushing, please let me know any differences you notice. I'd consider going that way also if it'd reduce the vibrations back to stock.
 
Judging from his picture, it seems that the cutout on that bushing is so it fits the metal. The metal it's mounted to has a fairly pronounced D-shape stamped into it around that bolt. Didn't yours have that?
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Discussion starter · #29 ·
I saw exactly what you're talking about, and that is the best I could think of also. Except that the directions that came with the bushings explicitly said to face the cut-out the other way.
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LOL

The whole purpose of the notch in the ES bushing is best demonstrated in the pic of the VF mount

Do you see how the (large) red bushing on the VF mount doesn't contour well to the front of the metal (because it's not notched out)

The ES bushing is cut out to make it fit better
 
If you do go back to the OEM small bushing, please let me know any differences you notice. I'd consider going that way also if it'd reduce the vibrations back to stock.
Will do!
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Hey....should I try the small bushing by itself or the big bushing by itself???
(I think the big bushing probably causes most of the vibration though)

It's a one time thing since I don't think I'll be able to put the stock bushings back in
(I destroyed them when I poly'd my rear mount on my old Zetec Focus)
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Well, you're probably right that most of the vibration of the motor is absorbed by the larger OEM bushing. BUT, since most of the movement of the motor is also allowed by the larger OEM bushing, I'd think that if you aren't going to make the large bushing poly, then don't even bother fooling with the mount at all- leave it 100% OEM.

I say try small bushing OEM, large bushing Poly. My thinking is that the small bushing might allow just enough play to let the motor vibrate freely, but not enough movement to interfere with shifting & power delivery.
 
I say try small bushing OEM, large bushing Poly. My thinking is that the small bushing might allow just enough play to let the motor vibrate freely, but not enough movement to interfere with shifting & power delivery.
That seems like the best plan for a test, but remember if you only do one that the other bushing will now be experiencing considerably more stress and will likely wear out sooner than if both remained stock.

>8^)
ER
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Small bushing's just got to take one for the team, that's all.
 
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I installed my mount, which is exactly like yours here in the pic, with the lip of the large bushing facing up.
 
I installed my mount, which is exactly like yours here in the pic, with the lip of the large bushing facing up.
I'm thinking that you have it in upside down. Mine looks like his...

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...and quoting from my original VF Engineering mount - installation how-to and review... thread:

Note that the cupped side of the larger bushing faces down along with the "VF Engineering" logo that is etched into it. Some people have apparently installed it upside down not knowing.
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>8^)
ER
 
Strange, it popped right in easy-as-you-please; everything lined up and the bolts went right back in...

I'll flip it over, but the lip being deformed over the lower sheetmetal doesn't make sense.

If the idle vibrations decrease (as they seem to be doing as the urethane gets WORKED) from t3h flipp4g3, then it'll stay in the car.

There were no instructions in the box.
 
Mine came with instructions as you can see from one of the pics in the old thread. Luckily I can read them from the original image, because I'm not going to go get them at this hour from the storage space in my garage attic.

Step #4 reads:

Fit VF Engineering mount ensuring cupped face of large poly bush sits on the cup in the subframe mounting point.
While even that's not 100% clear in it's wording, the fact that it says "cupped face... ...sits on" seems to give similar clues. I can recall finding several threads in the SVT forum prior to my install that clarified the proper direction for installation as well, and it was cupped side down.

>8^)
ER
 
I'm not arguing with anybody.
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I just installed it in the fashion I found most logical.

As I said, I'll flip it over tomorrow.

Another thing that could make a bit of difference is that I have the 4F27E instead of the MTX-75; with a sheetmetal bracket on the trans, not the cast aluminum one in your pic.

Whatever. I'll find out tomorrow. Thanks for the correct info.
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I wasn't arguing either - I was simply providing someone who I thought would care with the best information possible.
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I also found it extra funny because your famous quote is that "If it's worth doing, then it's worth doing twice"
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Of course I realize that you still haven't determined if it's truly worth doing in your situation.
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>8^)
ER
 
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