1. get the weekend off
2. have three friends come over
3. have two GOOD jack stands
4. make sure to go over your parts list twice
5. loosen lugnuts
6. jack up car and place jackstands under frame rails
7. take off wheels on both sides
8. take calipers off and zip tie to springs
9. take off tie rod nut, strut bolt, and control arm bolt
10. take entire hub, shaft, im shaft, and c-assem off
11. use long rod to tap out drive shaft and hub
12. take all six front crossmember bolts out(and dogbone)
13. support crossmember with two whimpy jackstands
14. loosen all tranny bolts
15. loosen tranny mount bolts(on tranny itself)
16. loosen tranny mount top bolt, and remove tranny mount
17. disconnect shifter cables and remove them from bracket
18. remove any harnesses connect to tranny
19. double check everything so far
20. remove starter and zip tie out of way
21. use jack to support tranny
22. remove all tranny bolts
23. remove tranny
24. remove pressure plate
25. remove flywheel
26. reassemble to opposite order
Tips
do NOT remove the axle nuts
be very careful when removing the axles
have patience
before starting anything drain tranny fluid, remove battery and tray, remove the clutch hydraulic line and cap off and triple check your list(i.e. new cover bolts, flywheel bolts, axle seals(in case), throwout bearing)
torque specs are as follows.
35 ft lbs tranny to engine
21 ft lbs pressure plate(cover)
83 ft lbs flywheel to crank
33 ft lbs drain and fill plugs
part numbers
BRS-46 axle seals
F5RZ-6379-A flywheel bolt
-W70246-5303 cover bolt
F5RZ-3B477-A(if swapping to svt hubs) axle nut
XT-M5-QS tranny fluid(2 quarts)
XL-7 friction modifier(for those with an lsd)
also build yourself a engine brace out of two eight foot 2x4s, two large eye bolts(with Big washers) and two chain links. cut two pieces of 2x4 into 6" lengths, press onto the strut tower bolts to imprint the wood to drill, drill the wood to match the indent to fit on your strut tower. now cut two more 6" pieces and two 8" pieces. Next counter sink and bolt the 8" to the second 6" piece(making a double stack). now cut two 20" pieces and bolt them to the double stack and the strut piece. now you have two level boards to span the engine bay. cut the other 2x4 in half and span the engine directly over the engine hangers and bolt them to the 20" pieces. now mark the location of the engine hangers and take the assembly off. drill holes above hangers and pull the eye bolt through place the washer on top and then the nut, use the chain link to attach the engine hanger to the eye bolt. now you can support the engine without a hoist blocking your way underneath and you can use the eye bolts to lower or raise the engine
here are pictures of the brace
2. have three friends come over
3. have two GOOD jack stands
4. make sure to go over your parts list twice
5. loosen lugnuts
6. jack up car and place jackstands under frame rails
7. take off wheels on both sides
8. take calipers off and zip tie to springs
9. take off tie rod nut, strut bolt, and control arm bolt
10. take entire hub, shaft, im shaft, and c-assem off
11. use long rod to tap out drive shaft and hub
12. take all six front crossmember bolts out(and dogbone)
13. support crossmember with two whimpy jackstands
14. loosen all tranny bolts
15. loosen tranny mount bolts(on tranny itself)
16. loosen tranny mount top bolt, and remove tranny mount
17. disconnect shifter cables and remove them from bracket
18. remove any harnesses connect to tranny
19. double check everything so far
20. remove starter and zip tie out of way
21. use jack to support tranny
22. remove all tranny bolts
23. remove tranny
24. remove pressure plate
25. remove flywheel
26. reassemble to opposite order
Tips

do NOT remove the axle nuts
be very careful when removing the axles
have patience
before starting anything drain tranny fluid, remove battery and tray, remove the clutch hydraulic line and cap off and triple check your list(i.e. new cover bolts, flywheel bolts, axle seals(in case), throwout bearing)
torque specs are as follows.
35 ft lbs tranny to engine
21 ft lbs pressure plate(cover)
83 ft lbs flywheel to crank
33 ft lbs drain and fill plugs
part numbers
BRS-46 axle seals
F5RZ-6379-A flywheel bolt
-W70246-5303 cover bolt
F5RZ-3B477-A(if swapping to svt hubs) axle nut
XT-M5-QS tranny fluid(2 quarts)
XL-7 friction modifier(for those with an lsd)
also build yourself a engine brace out of two eight foot 2x4s, two large eye bolts(with Big washers) and two chain links. cut two pieces of 2x4 into 6" lengths, press onto the strut tower bolts to imprint the wood to drill, drill the wood to match the indent to fit on your strut tower. now cut two more 6" pieces and two 8" pieces. Next counter sink and bolt the 8" to the second 6" piece(making a double stack). now cut two 20" pieces and bolt them to the double stack and the strut piece. now you have two level boards to span the engine bay. cut the other 2x4 in half and span the engine directly over the engine hangers and bolt them to the 20" pieces. now mark the location of the engine hangers and take the assembly off. drill holes above hangers and pull the eye bolt through place the washer on top and then the nut, use the chain link to attach the engine hanger to the eye bolt. now you can support the engine without a hoist blocking your way underneath and you can use the eye bolts to lower or raise the engine
here are pictures of the brace

