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SVTFocus101

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
1st can the JRSC be intercooled? I see many intercoolers for sale. I know the size I would need to fit my car. My friend has a machine shop and can bend the plumbing for it; I also can get silicone houses for it.

2nd I ask this because, I just got the JRSC w/ BBK and was playing with the idea of putting on CFM's 5.7' pulley which will increase my Boost, I know if I do that I'll need to get a tune to match the fuel and air to the higher boost level which is 2-3 PSi.

I am hearing thins such as if I go w/ the 5.7" pulley I could blow the motor, the SC would get over heated. I would need to relocate the IAT and MAF...

Will adding 5.7' pulley cause lots of problems? On the other hand, if I put it on and tune it for the boost will I be good?

Thanks in advance-
 
#2 ·
the only way to innercool the jrsc is to rip apart the intake manifold and put in some sort of small radiator. there was a company in florida that was doing it for some honda/acura applications but not the focus.
 
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#3 ·
look, relocating the IAT sensor is just a good idea! right now its in the MAF which in the current configuration will be before the JRSC.

as you start spinning the JRSC faster and start compressing air, the hotter the air becomes (physics 101) however, the iat (being pre blower) still thinks that the air going into the engine is about ambient or a few degrees hotter. the problem becomes the ignition mapping. the ecu will still run a more agressive timing map because it thinks the air in the engine is actually cooler than what it is.

just know that the only reason that the JRSC kit didnt relocate the MAF was because of some CARB standard. if it werent for that Oscar Jackson actually told me that he would have relocated the IAT.
 
#4 ·
The JRSC cannot be intercooled in that method. There have been attempts at intercooling the kit, so ask around to find out.

As far as the pulley is concerned, You will be turning the boost up to 2-3 PSI and the current boost is 10 PSI. So, the boost level will be at 12- 13 PSI, which is where this type supercharger is inefficient. Roots Blowers create a lot of heat in the upper boost levels, which causes problems.

My recommendation, stick with the base BBK setup. You will have plenty of fun with 10PSI, and the kit will run forever.

-Oscar Jr.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I am having lots of fun, I got the install done a lil while ago and I am very very happy with it. I was just thinking about it, because you know we can never leave our cars alone....
I have a port matched 65mm TB, ORP, HKS-Highpower exhaust, Custom Cold-air intake.. I am telling you it is NICE!!! Very fast. I spin through 1st and 2nd at will, going to 0-100 is almost crazy I took SVTF to the "track" about 30 minutes ago and raced my friends WRX that is 238WHP and KEPT UP w/out a problem, and pulled on him bit from 90-125mph almost a full car legnth ahead @ 125mph I SHIIIT YOU NOT.. I know I have to be over 220whp. I have to say, I went up w/ my Little Brothers SRT-4 he is slightly moded not sure of the mods. We did a 0-110 from a stop I was ½ car length ahead 2nd through 3rd. So I am very happy w/ my current set up.

THANK YOU JR THIS KIT KIKS A$$ I AM VERY VERY HAPPY WITH IT
 
#6 ·
^^that's like the 3rd time in 3 different posts you've posted that exact same thing. We get the point.

Jason
 
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#8 ·
I would suggest that you invest into a water/methanol injection kit as a form of chemical cooling. It sprays directly into your manifold at a set psi and brings your temps down by at least 50-60 degrees. Check out snowperformance.com
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
boost4fun said:
I would suggest that you invest into a water/methanol injection kit as a form of chemical cooling. It sprays directly into your manifold at a set psi and brings your temps down by at least 50-60 degrees. Check out snowperformance.com
Click to expand...
snowperformance.com has to do with sking.....


I found it, its snowperformance."NET" anway.."Cant find server"
I found some stuff at coolingmist.com

So edcuate me a bit how do these work? You tap into your intake?? or the manifold its self? These kits claim HP gain.... ???
If sprayed does it just cool it down a second or so...
 
#11 ·
With the jrsc you wanna spray into the manifold and it may need to be drilled, not sure? Also you shouldn't tune for the water injection because if the pump fails or you run dry, engine damage will occur. It may add up to 15whp, but gaining hp from this mod is not the point. It minimizes heatsoak and detonation allowing you to run consistently. Did you notice your car feels more sluggish and slower after say 45 mins of driving in hot weather compared to the first few mins you drove. It keeps your car running cool like on a winter day, when in reality its a hot summer day. Hope this helps...
 
#13 ·
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#15 ·
dont use the CFM 5.7" crank pulley, it will be overspinning your supercharger and kill it.

along with the 2.5" SC pulley, 5.7 divided by 2.5 equals 2.28, multiply 2.28 x 7000rpm (assuming thats your rev limiter) equals 15960rpm which is what the supercharger will be spinning at.

14000rpm is the max the M45 Eaton should be spinning at, beyond that it will make the rotors touch the outer casing.
 
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#19 ·
you think that by lowering the compression in the engine you're boost will increase? i dont want to say you're wrong, however, i do believe you are mistake.

lowering compression in a FI configuration is a preventative measure so that you dont grenade your block via predotonation. thus allowing you to run more boost via different pulley, wastegate spring etc.

there is a trade off though, the more you lower your compression ratio, the more torque you loose outside of boost. ever seen those supra dynos where they start off real-real small at the <2k range and explode after 3.5+? thats becuase they've reduced the compression to like 7.5:1 so that they can run a ridiculous amount of boost! it works for them because they are running turbos that can handle putting out 20+ pounds of boost. not to mention they have huge FMIC's that can cool down the intake temps to acceptable levels.

an unintercooled roots blower like in our application can only be spun a certain speed before heat becomes a problem. (heat can also causes predotonation) once you spin it faster than xx,xxx rpm (however fast the bbk has it spin) the inefficiency of its design really limits power. so it is my opinion that for a JRSC, the goal is to actually spin the blower at about 2-300 rpm slower than its peak efficency (prob right around bbk speeds) and concentrate more on efficiency of the engine ie port the head, custom 3" intake tubing, 3" exhaust etc....

the tricky part is, once you increase the efficiency of the engine, the boost on your gauge is gonna go down, but the numbers from the dyno go up! kinda counter intuative if you ask me, but hey... whatever works.
 
#20 ·
also, if you lower the compression on a roots blower too much, you'll have to overwork your blower just compensate for the lost compression......majority of roots blowers like compression.....alot of guys don't go below 9:1 from what I can tell
 
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BlkThunder
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