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PWSC oil lines.... =/

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LornesBored

· [FJ] Special Ed.
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
hey,

just checking in because since day 1 I have had a little oil leak problem with the PWSC. nothing major, it would usually be 1-2 drips coming off of the filter on the relo-kit (and some on the lines) every once and a while when I would look under the car.

What I have been doing is just topping up the oil at every fuel-up. a little here, and a little there. But after a weekend of beating on the car I am leaving sizeable messes on un-sealed driveways and pissing some people off.

not to sure whats going on because I dont have the time to get under the car and check it. I know theres a leak from somewhere, so I will be tackling that sometimes next week/week after....

I tried to search for the other threads where people posted their 'oil line kit' part numbers and what they looked for in stores n such. And I was wondering if these guys could chime in and help me out..

I am looking to put some steel braided lines in with better fittings (that wont leak).. Will these lines be fine to hold the near 100psi that the car chucks out? Here's another question.. when I am applying 'thread sealing tape' to the fittings, is it okay if I use 'plumbers dope?' my dad put it on there because we couldn't find some good enough tape to stick in there that would actually hold..

also, can someone tell me the part number to the focus motorcraft oil filter so I can go buy one? FL-002 or something along the lines of that..

thanks
~lorne
 
#2 ·
FL-2005 has the oil anti-drainback valve in it. I think the other filter is a FL-400 ... no drainback valve. Either can be used. A FL-1A can be used if there is enough room for one with the frame rail (depends on where you mounted the relocation block).

The thread tape would work better than the plumber's dope. Loctite 565 thread sealant ($$$$) or Permatex high-temp thread sealant ($) also works well.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
ok.

I mounted mine underneath the passenger side headlight and cut some of the subframe down to fit it in:

Image


would you be able to tell me the size of the fittings and such so i can run around and get different fittings/lines? Should it be -8AN all around?
 
#6 ·
Without going and posting a "for sale" ad, I've got three of the four AN -8 fittings you'd need, the 45's are new and sealed and the straight was assembled once. You'd need 1 or 2 straight fittings, and a 6' length of -8 hose from either Jeg's or Summit. Let me know. Oh, and I like teflon tape, applied clockwise as you view the fitting from the threaded end.

Denny
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
id be going local for the amount of hose I would need, I dont really want to incur those kind of shipping cost.

so AN-8 fittings should connect straight off of the fittings that came with the PWSC to the permacool filter relo kit?

how good is their seal and construction compared to the perma-cool setup? I think its coming from the area where the fittings have a 'self tapered seal' and do not require any tape or dope.

come next week I will be buying the motorcraft filter and swapping them over.
 
#8 ·
I'm quite pleased with the ZX3Tuning lines, which are AN -10.

The difference in my setup is the Mocal Take-Off plate and a slight alteration of the routing from the prescribed setup.

These pictures aren't of the final setup, but get the general idea.
Image


I made a simple bracket for the relocation adapter.
Image


Since this picture everything is buttoned down and has rub protection installed. The lines run flush with the body, so tire rub isn't an issue. I'll be modifying/building a shield to keep dust and grime off the lines though.
Image


The Mocal. The tight space is what generates the need for one line to go a different direction. Clearance is good, and with the Mocal it won't rotate into the axle... even so I still have some extra anti-rotation installed. The most annoying thing is that you need to sort of remove the supercharger to install it. I just removed the bottom three fasteners and backed the manifold bolts out until I had enough rotation on the unit to clear. It was an easy way to go and only took a couple hours.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
for that takeoff plate you had to move the pwsc back to install it right? can you link me to the actual product on the internet somewhere?

and is the Passenger side transaxle removed?

And now im convinced I am a visual learner. when I see how you set that up, it makes me relize that it's not going to be difficult whatsoever to switch over :)
 
#15 ·
Fantastic Omni! Now be a man, remove the a/c, and mount the filter to the area removed by the A/C compressor to eliminate the vibration to a static location.:p :p

Honestly, there is a lot of stress due to the fact that the plate is mounted to the engine and the filter is now on the frame. This can be reduced with VF mounts, or better yet, with relocation onto the engine itself. You will now not be pulling and pushing on the lines and this will relieve a lot of stress.

Just a suggestion though, I may be wong.:p
 
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#20 ·
airforcefocus said:
Honestly, there is a lot of stress due to the fact that the plate is mounted to the engine and the filter is now on the frame. This can be reduced with VF mounts, or better yet, with relocation onto the engine itself. You will now not be pulling and pushing on the lines and this will relieve a lot of stress.

Just a suggestion though, I may be wong.:p
Click to expand...
I agree. Sure would be nice if there was an adapter plate that would do this.
 
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LornesBored
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