Hello all, it's been awhile since I posted so bare with me. I've got a '00 SE auto with Volant CAI, Focus Central 4-2-1(with O2 cheater), and MBRP Exhaust. From a dead stop hitting wide open throttle the car bogs and stumbles, almost lunging. I can see the tach jumping from idle to about 1500-2000, it'll do this about 2 or 3 times and finally take off. This also happens sometimes if I'm riding slowly (under 30) and punch it. I'm taken the car to countless shops and even a dealer and no one can seem to figure out what the problem is. I don't think it's the fuel pump b/c it's been replaced twice already, the last time with the new version. I've tried cleaning the MAFS and replacing the TPS. I'm about to get fed up and get rid of it, but it's the first car I ever bought and paid for myself so there is quite a bit of sentimental value in it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Stumbling bogging issue
Beavis
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Hello all, it's been awhile since I posted so bare with me. I've got a '00 SE auto with Volant CAI, Focus Central 4-2-1(with O2 cheater), and MBRP Exhaust. From a dead stop hitting wide open throttle the car bogs and stumbles, almost lunging. I can see the tach jumping from idle to about 1500-2000, it'll do this about 2 or 3 times and finally take off. This also happens sometimes if I'm riding slowly (under 30) and punch it. I'm taken the car to countless shops and even a dealer and no one can seem to figure out what the problem is. I don't think it's the fuel pump b/c it's been replaced twice already, the last time with the new version. I've tried cleaning the MAFS and replacing the TPS. I'm about to get fed up and get rid of it, but it's the first car I ever bought and paid for myself so there is quite a bit of sentimental value in it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds a lot like the problem I have with my 2002 SE. Try replacing the fuel filter (like $10 at the parts store) and check the IAC valve. I've already replaced the DPFE sensor, EGR valve, and replaced plugs and wires in an attempt to fix this on mine. Let me know if anything helps.
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3,152 Posts
my car has been having the same problem for the last year... ive replaced numerous things and upgraded quite a few to no avail... ive got a topic in the zetec forum...
please let me know if you figure it out... im gonna talk to my buddy down at the local parts house to see if i can start borrowing new parts for a few minutes at a time such as MAF's... etc... etc... to see if i can track down what it is before i spend any more money..
my next go is gonna be testing the MAF... testing the coil pack... and replacing the fuel pump.
good luck
-AcId-
please let me know if you figure it out... im gonna talk to my buddy down at the local parts house to see if i can start borrowing new parts for a few minutes at a time such as MAF's... etc... etc... to see if i can track down what it is before i spend any more money..
my next go is gonna be testing the MAF... testing the coil pack... and replacing the fuel pump.
good luck
-AcId-
Thanks for the repsonse guys. Sounds like a good place to start. What exactly do I need to look for in a problematic IAC Valve. I know where it's at but how do I know if it's faulty? I've heard there's been a lot of issues with the DPFE sensor. I thought about replacing the MAFS but it's a pretty expensive part to replace considering I don't know if that's the problem.
Had the same problem with the 2000 ZTS I used to have, but I only had a intake. From everything I learned/ figured out/ was told, it may have been something to do with the combination of the Ford autotragic tune and less vacuum than that tune could handle when suddenly going WOT with the intake?!? Sort of makes sense. Sort of doesn't. :screwy: All I know for sure is that I went back to the stock intake and the problem was gone. Along with the extra top end power.:lol:
I am having what sounds like this same issue with my car too. I have had the engine bog down when I take off or accelerate into the next gear (but no engine lights here except for a brief flash about a week ago). But I've have also had some electrical problems too clicking sounds and lights coming on. Got in Sunday and it wouldn't start at all nothing, so I got a buddy to jump it and it started after a little bit. Drove home turned it off and then tried to start it back up and it's dead. So at this point I'm thinking alternator is bad and may have drained the batt. So we go Walmart buy a battery put it in, and no dice, nothing...dead. So we put the old one back and it starts right up! HUH??? Drive to work yesterday morn And I get the !exclaimation light yesterday a few times along with clicking surging power and it acts like it's gonna die. So me thinks this could be the alternator and I take it to a mech. I know yest. and he says not alternator, take it to a elec. specialist. So I took it to a place that specializes in electrical he recommended and all they said was that they got 2 codes to come up, one says reflash the computer, the other says replace it. He didn't charge for the diagnostic, but recommended I take it to the dealer to have them check it. So, Gulp.... here I go. I dunno what else to do. At this point but once it's running fine, the sign goes in the window and I'll be looking for a Toyota Tundra.
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23 Posts
check the wires on the alternator mine were broken once and it caused alot of problems like that. My focus has also had the same problems stumbling and all. I have been fighting this for about a year. I have relplace numerous things. Sometimes car works really well sometimes and sometimes really angers me but its mine so i have to deal with it. till im rich and famous.
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7,280 Posts
The combination of ATX and too open of an intake might be an important part of this.Qwik1 said:
I'm not sure how many of the guys that said they had this problem also had a 65mm TB, but I recently read an article on another site about the 65mm TB causing a measurable loss in low end torque (sorry, can't remember the site or amount of ft lb right now) on their MTX car. They didn't have the obvious bog, but they didn't have the ATX either.
Runner length, total air stream length, and strategically placed resrictions or voids along the air stream help to determine torque values. I've never seen any Ford engineering explainations (other than bragging about the clever SVT intake) covering the Zetec's intake stream, so it might be that the larger TB is contributing to the bog. Try swapping it out for your stock one and see what happens. If nothing good, then it's just back to the forum for more guesses.
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