hi there a few weeks ago i got the 07 focus st from a show room in my area i know it asa been a topic here but i`m realy thinking of getting that balance shaft any one as a reason not to get it please speak you mind right now thanx a bunch .., your fellow neighbore from the north(canada)...
balance shaft delete
booda
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5.5 quarts fills up my D23
You shouldn't have a problem letting the person doing your oil change know that you need 5.5 instead of 4.5 quarts. They may charge you more, but you are going to have to pay for it either way.
You shouldn't have a problem letting the person doing your oil change know that you need 5.5 instead of 4.5 quarts. They may charge you more, but you are going to have to pay for it either way.
I can understand wanting to remove rotational mass, but the weight savings seems to be in vain if the resultant area is filled with oil. Is there a windage tray available to prevent the oil from slapping the crank through the now open area where the b/s was? Just a few questions... One more thing, The b/s is a relatively small diameter and would not make as much change to the inertial mass as say half that amount of mass from the outer edge of the flywheel.
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Oil weighs less. Extra oil is good. Oil is all over the crank anyway. There is no slapping. The oil is sucked up through a tube into the engine.Ratfink said:
It does make the engine rev a bit more freely, but it's not a huge gain. Worth it for 20-30 bucks though.
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I wouldn't really recommend it unless you like to tap into neutral at every single stop; the torque converter loads the engine mounts and transfers vibration to the ****pit unless neutral is selected.
I know this because I tried using the VF urethane dogbone mount and acheived a similar effect.
If you like vibration or can tune the idle rpm to the least offensive setting, then you can try it but raising the idle wouldn't be a good idea unless you had installed a higher stall speed torque converter for every other mode of driving other than idling at a stop.
Modifying an auto opens these cans of worms.
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Mine uses exactly 6 quarts.afraziaaaa said:
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your not allowed to post on here. almost a year and 20 post....sheeshMightyMouse said:
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anybody have detailed instructions on how to install the balance shaft delete kit on 07 Focus ST?
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Probably wouldnt be too horrible. I raised my idle 100rpm with all 3 mounts and no bs delete and it hardly vibrates. I dont see how the bs delete would cause near as much as the other 2 motor mounts. But even then, its just at idle.
Its cake to install. Just have a torque wrench and a set of metric sockets handy so you can torque all the bolts to spec. Have 6 qts of oil, oil filter, roll of shop towels, razor blade, can of brake cleaner, blue thread-locker, and a medium size tube of grey RTV.
Quick off the top of my head procedure:
Jack the front of the car up with a stand on each side of the front end so that it is as high as possible. Drain the oil and swap on a clean filter first. Put the plug back in the pan. Remove all of the bolts on the pan using OEM procedures (I think 4 that go through sideways to the bellhousing on the trans, 4 more that go through sideways through the timing cover, and several more that go straight up through the pan into the block.) Using a large screwdriver, gently pry the pan off using the pre-existing spots to pry against. Pan comes down and dripps oil all over you. The oil dipstick tube just slides out of the pan as you withdraw the pan (careful not to bend the tube, and don't loose the little O-ring that seals the tube in the pan.) Use shop towels to continuously dry the dripping oil for a while. Remove the oil pickup tube via 2 screws (don't loose the O-ring), then 4 big bolts to remove the heavy-ass BS, and spill more oil all over you (get ready to catch it, its heavy). Spray out the bolt hole next to the oil supply hole with the brake cleaner. Apply thread-locker to the threads on the screw in the BSD kit, and screw down the BSD assembly as shown in the pics posted above. Re-attach the oil pickup tube and O-ring and tighten screws to OEM specs.
If you ever plan to purchase the FS Turbo kit in the future, now is the time to drill and tap threads into the pan for the oil return line included in the kit. You'll need a 1/4"-NPT tapered pipe thread tap, the correct sized drill bit, a 1/4"-NPT plug from the hardware store, and some teflon thread sealing tape. Ask me for further details/pics if you are interested in hole location/procedure/etc.
Use a straight-edge razor blade to scrape off all the old RTV on both the block and the pan on all mating surfaces (do not scratch the soft aluminum.) Clean these surfaces repeatedly with brake cleaner until all oil is 100% gone. Clean the inside of the pan out while you have a chance, too. Apply new RTV to the pan as per RTV directions. Apply a little extra RTV up in the corners between the block and timing cover, and along the verticle edge of the timing cover, since these are leak-prone areas. Quickly feed the pan back up in place very carefully as not to disturb the RTV too much (and don't forget to line up the O-ring fitted dipstick tube as you slide the pan up in place.) Torque all fasteners back down as per factory specs before the RTV sets up too much. Wipe off excess RTV immediately. Wait as long as you can to put oil back in. I use 6 full qts of oil in my D23, especially with the turbo. Keep a very sharp eye out for oil leaks for several days.
That's it! Takes about 2 hours once you sit down with all supplies in hand. Pics woild be nice to add if anyone has them.
edit: forgot to mention the dipstick tube.
Quick off the top of my head procedure:
Jack the front of the car up with a stand on each side of the front end so that it is as high as possible. Drain the oil and swap on a clean filter first. Put the plug back in the pan. Remove all of the bolts on the pan using OEM procedures (I think 4 that go through sideways to the bellhousing on the trans, 4 more that go through sideways through the timing cover, and several more that go straight up through the pan into the block.) Using a large screwdriver, gently pry the pan off using the pre-existing spots to pry against. Pan comes down and dripps oil all over you. The oil dipstick tube just slides out of the pan as you withdraw the pan (careful not to bend the tube, and don't loose the little O-ring that seals the tube in the pan.) Use shop towels to continuously dry the dripping oil for a while. Remove the oil pickup tube via 2 screws (don't loose the O-ring), then 4 big bolts to remove the heavy-ass BS, and spill more oil all over you (get ready to catch it, its heavy). Spray out the bolt hole next to the oil supply hole with the brake cleaner. Apply thread-locker to the threads on the screw in the BSD kit, and screw down the BSD assembly as shown in the pics posted above. Re-attach the oil pickup tube and O-ring and tighten screws to OEM specs.
If you ever plan to purchase the FS Turbo kit in the future, now is the time to drill and tap threads into the pan for the oil return line included in the kit. You'll need a 1/4"-NPT tapered pipe thread tap, the correct sized drill bit, a 1/4"-NPT plug from the hardware store, and some teflon thread sealing tape. Ask me for further details/pics if you are interested in hole location/procedure/etc.
Use a straight-edge razor blade to scrape off all the old RTV on both the block and the pan on all mating surfaces (do not scratch the soft aluminum.) Clean these surfaces repeatedly with brake cleaner until all oil is 100% gone. Clean the inside of the pan out while you have a chance, too. Apply new RTV to the pan as per RTV directions. Apply a little extra RTV up in the corners between the block and timing cover, and along the verticle edge of the timing cover, since these are leak-prone areas. Quickly feed the pan back up in place very carefully as not to disturb the RTV too much (and don't forget to line up the O-ring fitted dipstick tube as you slide the pan up in place.) Torque all fasteners back down as per factory specs before the RTV sets up too much. Wipe off excess RTV immediately. Wait as long as you can to put oil back in. I use 6 full qts of oil in my D23, especially with the turbo. Keep a very sharp eye out for oil leaks for several days.
That's it! Takes about 2 hours once you sit down with all supplies in hand. Pics woild be nice to add if anyone has them.
edit: forgot to mention the dipstick tube.
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