Okay, I just put on my CM FX300 and LW FW on my 02 SVT. I have read alot and still just want a clarifying answer, the question is, what is the break it period for the CM FX300. 500 miles or 1,000 miles? ALSO what is considered "break in", can it be highway driving or does it HAVE to be driving around town in the city? Need help here so I can get this thing goin. Thanks ya'll. Army Strong.
Clutch break in?????
Army19kSVT
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Okay, I just put on my CM FX300 and LW FW on my 02 SVT. I have read alot and still just want a clarifying answer, the question is, what is the break it period for the CM FX300. 500 miles or 1,000 miles? ALSO what is considered "break in", can it be highway driving or does it HAVE to be driving around town in the city? Need help here so I can get this thing goin. Thanks ya'll. Army Strong.
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To allow the friction material to properly seat to the flywheel and pressure plate, a minimum break-in period of 500 miles is required before full abuse can be initiated. The break-in period means normal stop-and-go driving (no full throttle shifting or compression braking).
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Damn...that sucks for me concidering I drive like 20 miles a day. I was just gonna take a road trip and break the clutch in..Any other opinions on this?
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That's what I like to do.
...except you should make sure you shift a lot. Not aggressive shifting, just shifting. Driving along with the clutch engaged doesn't really break it in much since it is just gripping the flywheel/pp without and slip.
Basically, you're just trying to transfer a little friction material to the iron surfaces in a non-violent fashion.
...except you should make sure you shift a lot. Not aggressive shifting, just shifting. Driving along with the clutch engaged doesn't really break it in much since it is just gripping the flywheel/pp without and slip.
Basically, you're just trying to transfer a little friction material to the iron surfaces in a non-violent fashion.
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Engagement is great. Nice easy shifting, also have sts so it makes it awesome. Along the same lines as the stock clutch when it comes to engaging. Catches very nicely. I got the lightweight flywheel. Thing is like 9lbs. Kit came complete with everything and was very nice. Clutch chatter is an issue but it is not even anything to shake a stick at. Light chatter but I don't mind it. RPM rev is just..wow. I am glad I made the investment and would recommend it to anyone. Get will Karl over at Massive, he will hook you up!WuNgUn said:
SO, I can do a road trip just what do I need to be doing, cause I am going to be doing this on sunday. I am not allowed to downshift the car, or really take it past 4000rpm.
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Everyone else has pretty much said it, stop and go driving, vary your speed, change gears. etc.
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That's exactly what I'd do. Lots of easy stop and go type driving (not in bumper-to-bumper where it overheats) with lots of easy shifting. Avoid dumping the clutch and slipping and you should be fine. Also make sure to downshift rather than accelerate in higher gears where there are higher loads on the engine. You should be good after 500 miles but depending on how you're driving, I'd still take it a little easy and not severely hammer on it until 1k (in other words drive harder if you want but avoid clutch dumps and slipping it a lot if you're making a lot of power).
The ceramic-based discs essentially don't have a break-in period but it's best to be careful with an organic-based disc like what you have. Talk to any reputable clutch manufacturer and they'll tell you that improper break-in is one of the number one killers of the clutch and why they get returned under warranty (if you buy one that is even covered).
The ceramic-based discs essentially don't have a break-in period but it's best to be careful with an organic-based disc like what you have. Talk to any reputable clutch manufacturer and they'll tell you that improper break-in is one of the number one killers of the clutch and why they get returned under warranty (if you buy one that is even covered).
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Well that sucks to be me then huh? LOL. Damn. Well at my average of 20 miles per day driving 5 days a week thats 100miles per week. Sooo, that 5 weeks for 500miles and 10 weeks for 1,000 miles..Damn..I'm hurtin here...
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So 150 city miles and 800 highway miles won't cut it?
I've never seen a break in period for a clutch?? Most everything i have owned has been a straight drive for the past 30 years & never has any new car or truck i purchased told me to baby the clutch for 500 to a 1000 miles. When i bought my SVT it had 32 miles on it, when i left the dealership i smoked the tires hard...and every now and then i will pull a hard 2nd.....I have now turned up 86,500 miles on the stock clutch....and yes it chatters when at McD's but so far so good.....still pulls good??? I think it's crap when they say baby your clutch, it should hold from day one...........
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The owner's manual of most cars spell out a break-in period of 300-500 miles on average. With the newer manufacturing and machining tolerances most engines are broken in from the factory but items like the clutch, brakes, driveline, etc. usually still benefit from a break-in. The issue isn't so much a stock clutch on a stock engine, but more so when you have upgraded power and are installing an aftermarket organic clutch disc. If they slip and glaze before being completely broken in they usually won't hold their rated power, which if increased over stock can be a problem.
There isn't a cut and dry, you need xx miles for a clutch to be broken in formula, so most aftermarket companies spell out a 500-1000 mile interval. If you do a lot of easy, daily driving it might hold up fine under less miles than that as long as you're not excessively slipping it. If you have a blower or turbo on the car with a fat torque curve and are pushing close to the torque capacity of whatever specific you're using then it may need more miles. As to city or highway miles, if city means you're caught in stop-and-go traffic and are crawling along at 5 mph on the freeway with a new clutch that might overheat it and be detrimental, while a bunch of highway miles with a lot of upshifting and downshifting might be better.
A good break-in period longer than needed won't hurt an organic clutch but one too short might be detrimental. There's many factors and it's up to you to know your car, the power levels it's producing, your driving style and conditions, and what clutch you put in the car.
There isn't a cut and dry, you need xx miles for a clutch to be broken in formula, so most aftermarket companies spell out a 500-1000 mile interval. If you do a lot of easy, daily driving it might hold up fine under less miles than that as long as you're not excessively slipping it. If you have a blower or turbo on the car with a fat torque curve and are pushing close to the torque capacity of whatever specific you're using then it may need more miles. As to city or highway miles, if city means you're caught in stop-and-go traffic and are crawling along at 5 mph on the freeway with a new clutch that might overheat it and be detrimental, while a bunch of highway miles with a lot of upshifting and downshifting might be better.
A good break-in period longer than needed won't hurt an organic clutch but one too short might be detrimental. There's many factors and it's up to you to know your car, the power levels it's producing, your driving style and conditions, and what clutch you put in the car.
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Smoked the tires? From the dealership??? With traction control?? Dude, that wasn't tire smoke!Dads03SVT said:
It'll hold from day one, of course...doesn't mean it's broken it though! It can be 'glazed' just like brakes can be, if your a complete idiot about it...
Then it won't hold very well!
I don't think mine has traction control...at least i don't have a switch to cut it off...?? Yeah those nasty Conta tires smoked down quite well...My Kumhos i have not tried....but they will pull a mean 2nd....Factory never tells you to take it easy when you leave...
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^^^No, they don't, but they want stuff to break. So, they can charge you to fix it.
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The manufacturers absolutely don't want stuff to break because if that happens to a new car they have to pay to reimburse their dealers to fix the issue. One of the members I know in a local car club has worked for and with quite a few car companies over the years and was in charge of corporate warranty tracking at one of them. It's interesting to hear some of the stories how a manufacturer tries to cut costs and then it comes back to bite them in warranty claims.
Vik from Focus Sport said it best when I asked how easy I should take it during the break-in period, "Drive like there's a cop behind you."
I agree with everyone who said, smooth easy driving, and smooth shifts. Lots of stop and go driving. Instead of a road trip purposefully get yourself stuck in heavy traffic, put on an audio book/good cd and make the best of it..
I agree with everyone who said, smooth easy driving, and smooth shifts. Lots of stop and go driving. Instead of a road trip purposefully get yourself stuck in heavy traffic, put on an audio book/good cd and make the best of it..
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