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Um. Wal Mart baby food is good, right?

I guess it's just a matter of how extra uber over the top careful do you want to be with what is essentially an economy car? Spend 75 an oil change? Or only 50? Honestly, I am willing to wager that, as long as oil changes are done at a reasonable interval, the difference in an engine at 100,000 miles while run with Mobil1 versus Amsoil at the same mileage, would be essentially the same. Not to say you shouldn't run Amsoil, or Redline, or the Purple stuff, I will stick with Mobil1, and trust that the almost 250,000 miles in three different vehicles is sufficient to prove that it is more than enough for the daily driver.

Track duty notwithstanding.

I do, however, recommend the best stuff for transaxles. Ford Honey, no matter the cost, is better than just about anything out there. And since most people don't change their gear oil but once every 2-3 years, I would spend the money on that.
 
So what you guys are saying is drain the ATF that's in my tranny? Only ran it about 15miles in it. Guy at the dealer ship said any fully synthetic tranny fluid will work.

I really need to know. Because I don't wanna buy a new trans.

Were can a person get some ford honey?
 
So what you guys are saying is drain the ATF that's in my tranny? Only ran it about 15miles in it. Guy at the dealer ship said any fully synthetic tranny fluid will work.

I really need to know. Because I don't wanna buy a new trans.

Were can a person get some ford honey?
Go browse the Contour forums, For dused to use ATF in the MTX-75 and the Contour guys have massive issues with synchros and shirft forks.

The Focus uses specific synthetic manual transmisssion oil and the MTX and Getrag have been exceptionally reliable.

I have the fluid for $14.80 per quart and it retails for $17.94 per quart so yu may do allright buying it locally.

P/N XT-M5-QS



.
 
Gear oil:: XT-M5-QS OEM Ford
How much fluid: 2.1 Qt I believe.

Motor oil:: Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W30
4.5Qt with a Motorcraft FL-400-S Filter

Power steering:: Mercon V Spec ATF Fluid

Brake/clutch fluid:: I've flushed twice with Valvoline DOT3. No problems.
 
Hey Kev, text me next time I'll give you all kinds of fluid info. ;)

Getrag fluid: XT-M5-QS
Engine oil: Motorcraft full synthetic 5w-30
Power steering: Red Line
Brake fluid: Valvoline SynPower
Gas: 91+ octane
 
no mean I put in five, 4 1/2 is what it calls for I put it half a quart over full cause I don't wanna save the 1/2 quart lol. Sorry if it was confusing
 
so just wondering, where do you guy get your info for each oil?
Information on oil? I usually check out the manufacturer's sepcs and the oil forums when researching but just like here you'll get a lot of opinions which may not mean much, so I put a lot more emphasis on seeing how well certain oils perform in certain vehicles and driving conditions when people post up their used oil analysis. Testing for yourself is about the only real way to know for certain how well an oil will do in your car under your driving style and operating conditions with your change intervals.



For fluids on my SVTs I'm currently running Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in the near stock SVT but also have a stockpile of 0w30 "German" Castrol Syntec and Mobil 1 0w40 that I've run. While a lighter 5w20 is recommended for the other Zetec/SPI and Duratec engines Ford did recommend 5w30 for the SVT with that higher viscosity when hot being even more important if you're going to track the car.

For power steering fluid I've stuck with the stock synthetic Mercon V ATF but would probably completely flush and start using Redline fluid if I did any track duty. People seem to have had great success with it and I haven't seen posts about premature pump or rack failure when running it. For coolant I'm using Zerex G-05 which is the recommended HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) coolant and I believe they are still the supplier for Motorcraft (who use a different color dye). For daily driving and track duty I'd probably run a distilled water heavy, 70/30 mix in summer months.

If you're shopping for brake fluid and comparing specs make sure to look at both wet and dry boiling points. For a racing fluid Castrol SRF is a great choice and will stand up to heat extremely well but is also extremely expensive. ATE Super Blue is another good choice and quite a bit less expensive and you can order it from Tire Rack. For off the shelf, auto part store stuff I'd probably use Castrol GTLMA or the heavy duty Motorcraft fluid, both of which have decent specs and should hold up well in light track use. Regular DOT 3/4 specs are find but never use a silicone-based DOT 5 fluid.

For transaxle fluid I've only used the Ford Fully Synthetic Manual Transmission fluid in the SVTFs. It works great, shifts great, seems to provide more than adequate protection, and is what Ford specifies. Other fluids might work just as well but I personally don't want to do oil analysis testing and tear-down inspections with them just to make sure I'm getting adequate protection for all internal components when Ford has already done extensive testing and the stock fluid appears to work great. Down side is that it's expensive and can be tough to find if you don't have a dealer close by but on the other hand it doesn't need changed that often.


On fluid amounts if you don't have a factory shop manual or the owner's manual and SVT supplement you can download them from Ford here. One other thing to note is that for things like oil I've seen some people just dumping in what the manual calls and never checking the level. You always want to stop a little early and check the dipstick before topping it up to the full mark. It's also good after pouring in about four quarts to get in the car, hold the gas pedal to the floor so the engine won't start and then crank the engine for about ten seconds so the new filter is refilled. Then let the car sit for a moment and then top it off.

Too much oil can be a lot worse than running slightly low but still in the recommended range. If you put too much oil in the car it can cause the level to be too high and get aerated by the spinning crank much easier and aerated oil is tough on bearings. It can also increase the chance of leaks such as from the rear main seal.
 
Oil quality review using laboratory-grade equipment and testing methodology: http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

Obviously only a dozen or so oils tested. Keep an eye on the viscosity ratings...obviously thicker oils protect better, so compare apples to apples. Castrol and Amsoil stomp Mobil1.

For a more blunt review and history of synthetic oils: http://www.ehow.com/about_5525684_synthetic-oil.html

Personally, I've been using Pennzoil Ultra in both my Foci, my truck and my Mustang since it launched a year ago. No real noticable difference between the Pennzoil Platinum oils I've been using for nearly 10 years. I even broke in one of my rebuilt engines with it a few years ago and it has been a problem-free 32k miles. I'm sure somebody will flame me for this, but I'd like to see evidence to backup the requirements of breaking in a fresh or rebuilt engine with conventional oil or 'breakin' oil...considering manufactures use synthetic oil in the following vehicles from factory:

Acura RDX
Aston Martin
All Bentley Vehicles
All Cadillac Vehicles
Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mercedes SLR
Mitsubishi Evolution
Pontiac Solstice GXP
All Porsche Vehicles
Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
Viper SRT-10

If you're doing drag racing or 24-hour endourance races where the flashpoint is intense and molecular breakdown is an issue, use a really high quality synthetic with high ester and no blended content like Amsoil. If you're heavy on the pedal and rev high, use an economical synthetic like Pennzoil. Otherwise, save you're money and don't use synthetic oil.

Another reference that mirrors my recommendations: http://www.bestcovery.com/best-synthetic-oil
 
Gear oil:: XT-M5-QS OEM Ford
How much fluid: 2.1 Qt I believe.

Motor oil:: Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W30
4.5Qt with a Motorcraft FL-400-S Filter

Power steering:: Mercon V Spec ATF Fluid

Brake/clutch fluid:: I've flushed twice with Valvoline DOT3. No problems.
This is by the book and IMHO by far the best recommendation.

FWIW, I just had a used oil analysis performed on a 5,100 mile run of Pennzoil Ultra 5w30. Check out my thread with results here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2012457#Post2012457
 
Mobil 1 is not by the book; Motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend is by the book, and IMHO is better than Mobil 1.
 
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