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LTDScott

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Yesterday out of the blue, my car started making a repetitive chirping or grinding noise from the driver's side of the engine compartment. It almost sounds like a starter cranking very slowly, or maybe an old noisy electric wiper motor. At first I thought it was actually the wiper, but it's not. A brief look under the car reveals nothing obvious. All I can see on that side is the transmission. Here's a video of the noise:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KZChRTstjM&feature=g-upl

The noise occurs only when the engine is running, and stops the moment I shut off the engine. It doesn't change based on engine speed, and is present with the clutch in or out. It doesn't change based on car speed either, and seems to be present in all gears, but after 50 MPH or so, it gets drowned out by wind noise. I can't get the noise to change speed or go away, and the car runs and drives just fine otherwise. It's just constant and repetitive. Inside the car I also heard an occasional "popping" or "crackling" noise that was related as well. The only time I *think* I heard it go away is when I was coasting to a stop in gear (can't remember which) and it seemed like the noise was gone for a moment and then came back as the car was slowing down.

Full disclosure in case it means anything - I think my throwout bearing may be going out, as I have heard it making a bit of noise when the clutch pedal is in. But if it completely failed, I would think I would hear a difference with the clutch in or out. Also, I changed a front wheel hub bearing a month or so back and have had an ABS light on ever since. The bearing was installed properly, so I just bought a new wheel speed sensor to try. It'll be delivered today and I was planning on installing it after work, so I'll get the front end of the car in the air and try to pinpoint the source of the chirping while I'm at it.

Any ideas? I was just about to let my parents borrow the car for a trip out to Nevada (because their truck gets poor mileage), but now I'm reluctant to do so in case it's about to break down.
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
I just did a bit of digging around on my lunch break and found the source of the noise. It's some sort of electrical component mounted to the driver's (left) side inner fender, behind the splash shield. Couldn't really see it well and I wasn't about to roll around on the ground in nice clothes, but I could definitely feel that it's the source of the noise. So I'll have to investigate later.

Any idea what this is?
 
I just did a bit of digging around on my lunch break and found the source of the noise. It's some sort of electrical component mounted to the driver's (left) side inner fender, behind the splash shield. Couldn't really see it well and I wasn't about to roll around on the ground in nice clothes, but I could definitely feel that it's the source of the noise. So I'll have to investigate later.

Any idea what this is?
ABS pump maybe?

Sent from Zach's Samsung Galaxy S2 Skyrocket
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
ABS pump was my thought, so I pulled the fuses and no change.

Looks like I figured it out. It's the intake manifold runner controller (IMRC). Seems to be a common problem on these cars. Great.
 
I've never heard an IMRC sound like that. Have you checked under the intake tube to the throttle body to see if it's just that the lever for the intake runners has broken?

I'd start there, it's a much cheaper part.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Apparently I'm not the only one, because I discovered this video on Youtube with the exact same issue:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDTYy9_StpY

What would be the downside of just disconnecting the IMRC temporarily?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I just took a quick peek under the hood, and without pulling anything apart, it looks like the DSI clip is broken and the cable isn't attached. No idea if that's the cause of the IMRC noise or if the clip was already broken.
 
Get the CFM billet lever, it sounds like your actuator is still working.

You can drive it with the actuator unplugged and I'd actually suggest it if until you get the new lever, just be sure the wiring connections stay clean and dry during that time.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Yup, DSI clip is definitely broken. The odd thing about this is that everything I have read says you notice a drop in low end power and a decrease in fuel mileage when the DSI isn't working. But I can truly say I haven't noticed any difference in performance, so maybe the clip has been broken for a while and I just didn't know it?

The IMRC is working, however. As soon as I turn on the engine, I can see the cable getting pulled in, but it doesn't want to stop. It just keeps going. See this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15Nsv0wEHiQ&feature=g-upl

The cable is on the bottom left, and after it gets pulled in, you can see it keeps pulling and pulling, and that's what the noise I have been hearing is. I have seen some links online for people disassembling the IMRC to clean/sand the contacts inside. Is it possible that the internal contact that tells the motor to stop is bad and needs to be cleaned?

I bought a new IMRC from a buddy of mine who works the parts counter at a Ford dealer ($120 less than list price, but still not cheap) because I was hoping to replace it by tomorrow before my dad picked up the car. But it's no good without an intact DSI clip, (I'll likely buy the metal one from CFM), so I just removed the IMRC from the car completely. Surprisingly, this didn't trigger a check engine light. Is that normal?
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
As predicted, the CEL did come on after the 2nd time I started the car.

Bah, I feel so ghetto driving around in a car with two warning lights on in the dash.
 
If you own a mk3 VW, the trip meter is there so you can count the miles between CELs. :lol: Don't worry, CELs aren't too common on these cars unless you're having O2 issues, DSI issues, or recently replaced your timing belt incorrectly.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
If there has anything I've learned working for an auto parts distributor, it's to not ever buy a late model VW product :)
 
If you own a mk3 VW, the trip meter is there so you can count the miles between CELs. :lol: Don't worry, CELs aren't too common on these cars unless you're having O2 issues, DSI issues, or recently replaced your timing belt incorrectly.
If there has anything I've learned working for an auto parts distributor, it's to not ever buy a late model VW product :)
But what about the legendary German reliability? :rolleyes:
 
Oh, it's there - you just need to know how to wrench it yourself, and like ANY car, keep up on the maintenance. The only dubs I would steer clear of is the mk4 with the 1.8t motor. Other than that, I've never had repetitive issues with ANY of my dubs. Hell, all my VWs were 3x as reliable as my SVT ever has been. :lol:

"Legendary" German reliability? WTF is that? I think you're getting it confused with Honda reliability.
 
:dunno:

My SVT has been totally reliable, it's never failed me once in eight years and 78,000 miles even in the worst of Minnesota winters.

Can't say the same for the VWs my sister had or the one o2designs got after he sold Chromie and the wagon.




.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I sell more Audi and VW turbos than I care to think about.

My SVT had been very reliable until lately. In the last 107K miles, I only had a window regulator fail, plus a couple of leaky engine seals. But in the last couple of months I had one wheel bearing go bad (which I replaced and now have an ABS issue that I am unable to fix until I pay someone to have my codes scanned), and now this IMRC/DSI issue. Although to be fair, I think the DSI clip may have been broken for quite a while and I just didn't know it.
 
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