so i have a 2000 ford focus se turbo and i have i believe a bent valve , i also have a 99 zx2 zetec ,my question is are the head specs the same and can i swap em out ?
head swap question?
burke_024
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No, 2 totally different heads and very few parts are interchangeable between the 2.
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Like Jared said, it's more work than it's worth. Just rebuild your head or get a new one.
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To answer your question ; yes you could swap the heads however as mentioned already , there is no real benefit. Just about all valve train parts are interchangeable between zx2 and zx3 heads (valves, springs, ect.), The main differences is the fact one has VCT while the other does not. Due to that , it's best to stick with the Focus head and just fix the bent valve or if you were planning on upgrading the valves and such then this is a great time to do it. Shoot me an email ; jeff@racingpartssolution.com and I can work with you on upgrading or even replacing the valve / valves that need to be replaced.
its my dd so i really dont have much time for down time but my intake side is the one that is bad pretty sure the vct is on the exhaust side if i did switch all of the valve train components out how far in do i have to go ,just springs buckets and cam or cam to valve?
Unless you've done like compression test you won't know about bent valve until you at least pull the valve cover to check them. Change only the parts needed, doing all intakes will make you do much more work. You could reface one of the valves coming out of the donor head and pop it in the bent one's place provided you don't need to recut seat from lopsided valve denting it on one side. You may even get away with lap only on intake side since they don't wear very much. The exhausts are what eat up the seats. Any assembly you change must have the valve at least lapped in for seal and the tappet must be checked for clearance, simply changing parts alone could easily get you a car running like crap.
Doesn't matter how much time you got, still got to do it right or no sense in taking it apart. I see people do that all the time, rush the job and then it runs worse than before. Lesson #1 is don't box yourself in.
How'd you bend valve, what makes you think that happened?
Doesn't matter how much time you got, still got to do it right or no sense in taking it apart. I see people do that all the time, rush the job and then it runs worse than before. Lesson #1 is don't box yourself in.
How'd you bend valve, what makes you think that happened?
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I was wondering that too, how is it you bent only one valve, or only one pair? It's more likely that you blew out the head gasket or roasted a ring. You can hook up a vacuum gauge to the IM and watch how it moves to discover if any valves are ruined. Here's a site for instructions (scroll down a bit and look for your scenario) http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
i was pushin 15 psi and hit some detonation due to ,i believe a boost leak , now it is ticking badly on the number 4 cylinder , i mean it ticked before but only at idle now it does it thru the rpm range ,i can take some pics of the intake cam it has a metallic residue and has sideways striations on number four and three intake cam lobes ,im thinkin im gonna get the head rebuilt just setup a day when he has an opening take it in have em rebuild it pick up next day and throw it on , i was thinking maybe i jumped an intake tooth but havent been able to find anything on how to check the timimng seeing as how its controlled by the ecu, any and all help would be great guys thanks and my boost guage holds 19-21 hg on vacuum is this the same type of guage as a vaccum guage cause it holds steady ?
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Not a bent valve if the vacuum is steady at idle, also with such a high (low) number your head gasket and timing are probably alright too. What happens to the gauge when you first begin to mildly accelerate, before the boost takes over? The ticking could be an injector... what size injectors are you using?
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7,280 Posts
The "rainbow" appearance sounds like heat damage/tempering. You check the gap between the bottom of the cam lob and the bucket when the valves are fully closed... when the lobe is pointing directly away from the bucket/valve. Rotate the engine by hand (crank pulley bolt) to move the lobes into the correct position one pair at a time, with the battery disconnected.
so here is my cam specs,from 1-4 intake they are : .005/.005 .005/.005 .004/.005 .004/.015
from 1-4 exhaust they are : .012/.013 .014/.014 .013/.013 .011/.011
number four cylinder has a wetness look to it when i look thru the spark plug hole so im hoping there is something wrong with the number 4 2nd intake valve seal or a blown head gasket and not any piston/ring problems
and heres some pics
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
marks on cam
![Image]()
![Image]()
rust spots
![Image]()
from 1-4 exhaust they are : .012/.013 .014/.014 .013/.013 .011/.011
number four cylinder has a wetness look to it when i look thru the spark plug hole so im hoping there is something wrong with the number 4 2nd intake valve seal or a blown head gasket and not any piston/ring problems
and heres some pics
marks on cam
rust spots
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