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So a real stance question...I rolled/pulled my rear fenders last night and put on the 5mm spacers I bought. The divers side sit sunk in so putting the spacer on and adjusting the camber bolt it fit perfect. The passenger side not so much, turned the camber as much as I could and the fender still sat on the tire sidewall. So my subframe does not sit perfect under my car. Yeah I know, not a surprise. So my question is, because I've never taken it out, is there some play in the subframe mounting? Can I slide it over? Or do I just get camber arms and adjust that way?
 
Just got my full Dominant suspension put in along with H & R race springs in the back with two dead coils cut. She sits just about perfect now (check out the Stance 'your ride' forum pg 3 if you want to see how she sits now). More importantly she rides great with this set up maybe a tiny bit stiffer with the race springs. Also, no more rubbing at all with the additional camber in the rear and her ass is just soooooo planted without any of that weird jouncyness of the H & R coilover rear springs. Plus, the H & R coilover struts seem perfectly up to the task of damping/rebound with these springs as the ride height is not all that different than what I had them set at before.
IMO perfect set up for aggressive driving and decent low. I could go lower both front and rear if I wanted to and still have the adjustability built into the Dominant suspension to fine tune both the ride height and the geometry. Not cheap, but killer app.
 
So what have you done to solve the issue?
I pulled the right LCA in towards the center as much as I could and kept the left side out so its visually the same.

-Matt
 
So you adjusted the toe setting and pulled the arm in that way?
 
I did the same, but on both sides to reduce camber. Then I had my toe zero'd with my Dominant toe arms
 
I did the same, but on both sides to reduce camber. Then I had my toe zero'd with my Dominant toe arms
Yes, that is what it does. It pulls the bottom of the arm in as Josh says, thus pulling the wheel closer to the center of the car and rolls the bottom of the wheel in. When you have adjustable toe arms you can use the stock toe adjustment for things it wasn't really meant for like Josh and I have done.

-Matt
 
The Konis will be too long. That's the problem I had when trying to do something similar.
 
Figured I'd post this on here as well as another forum I posted it on. For all those pining for the stretch of the not so available Falken 512's, I got the new Falken Catalog for 2013 at work today. On a 205/40/17 the current model Falken 452's have a width of 7.2", the new Falken 453's have a width of 7.0" with a better reinforced sidewall. The new 453's look like they will be better for stretching as a substitute for the 512's which have a width of 6.92".

Food for thought for those buying tires in the near future as new stuff is on the way.
 
would they work if it everything was set to full height? i thinking these could be a temp winter set up if my h&rs are really failing and I have to get them sent out hopefully under warranty.
Yeah, depending on how many coils you cut. I think if you put the collars back in and haven't cut 2 coils from them you should be OK.
 
did anyone run a nankang ns-1 tire yet for some stretch ?
I believe Justin (NHFocus) ran them on his Cobra's so yes they do stretch if that was indeed what he was running.
 
So me putting on the spacers is on hold for a while. I need camber and toe arms to do it right and with trying to buy a house I'm not spending money on car parts I don't need. I may look into pulling the hell out of my fenders instead. Just because I want a wider look.
 
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