Ford Focus Forum banner
201 - 220 of 272 Posts
Sorry. I should of clarified that. Pull the timing pin and turn the crank by the crank pulley - 18mm socket and ratchet. Then reinsert timing pin and check. Repeat.

This should be a slow an methodical process. Not a quick one. This one was off by less than than the SLOP the slot allows for bar to go in. (It would let the bar slide in even though it was off that little)
Thanks for the clarification. So it is really THAT precise. It seems even torquing the fasteners is enough to throw off the adjustment. I wonder how the dealer service people can make money on this job
 
One other thing: After making the adjustment and then rotating the crank should the cover for the VCT be on or off? or does it matter? Some residual oil may still be in there and I know I want to keep it off the belt.
 
I am having a similar problem to the rest of you. The car runs great for a few miles. Plenty of power and all that. Then it sets a P1383 and is a total pig in first gear. I ohmed out my vct solenoid and got 10 ohms. I think the spec is 3 to 6 ohms. Can anyone confirm the ohm specs off a known good running engine and vct solenoid? Thanks for the help
 
Discussion starter · #207 ·
I've given up. I don't have enough time. And I'm not going to be using any video except mine.

I feel that I've stated it enough different ways at this point that people should be able to get it once they get their hands on the car.

IF NOT - They need to STOP - and take a print out to a tech @ a Ford Dealer.
 
Okay, here is my problem.

Buddy of mine traded a car for a 2002 SVT Focus. It needed some small TLC. He ended up having his buddy reset the timing as it was out. He then brought the car to me because, its slow and was throwing a P1381 Advanced code. I tore it apart and the intake cam did seem out of time with the exhaust gear. I told my buddy I had to order the timing tools and could mess with it next day.

I get the tools, move the crank 15 degrees BTDC, insert the timing pin, rotate crank to TDC when it hits the pin. Then I followed the exact method posted in this thread. When I was done, moving the intake cam toward the windshield resulted in everything turning, which meant it was at positive dead stop from what I read on page 2 or 3, I can't remember.

Get it back together, take it for a drive. Seemed to drive different. I drove it for a few miles, shut it off, turned it back on and bam there was the code, but this time it was P1383 Retarded code. I tear it apart again and follow the same procedure and then get the same results.

I don't understand what is happening. I've only read thru 6 pages of this thread so far, but I'm going to post this and finish reading the rest. Trying to get this fixed today so I can start ripping the transmission out of my buddys Ranger. This Focus is driving me nuts.
 
Discussion starter · #211 ·
I am thinking back and I think I have forgot to mention that you need to "bounce the cams" so they REST in time. If you do force it back to positive dead stop and tighten everything up, you CAN set the timing slightly retarded, enough to JUST throw the code. You need to be able to turn the motor over and the cam bar should slide in WITHOUT assistance. If you need to help it in AT ALL ... you are off. You should be able to closely look down and eyeball it, and without touching it, it should be SPOT on.

Retard = Tried to hard
Advanced = You didn't try hard enough\

^ sorry, that was just to humor myself
 
I am thinking back and I think I have forgot to mention that you need to "bounce the cams" so they REST in time. If you do force it back to positive dead stop and tighten everything up, you CAN set the timing slightly retarded, enough to JUST throw the code. You need to be able to turn the motor over and the cam bar should slide in WITHOUT assistance. If you need to help it in AT ALL ... you are off. You should be able to closely look down and eyeball it, and without touching it, it should be SPOT on.

Retard = Tried to hard
Advanced = You didn't try hard enough\

^ sorry, that was just to humor myself
Tore it back apart tonight, Slides in intake cam easy, not the exhaust one now. Exhaust cam needs to move just a slightest bit.

How do you recommend I do this? I'm currently waiting on a new bolt because the previous person half stripped it out and they also damaged the spot on the cam to hold it, it's a pain to hold it with channel locks. Oh they broke the ends of the cams up too, they must of used the bar and the force as they were tightening/loosening broke a corner off. This probably doesn't help.

I should be able to just loosen that gear and move the exhaust cam the slightest bit and retighten and be good?
 
Sounds like it, yes. The hardest part is getting the intake cam to stay in time with the crank. If that's good, you can move the exhaust around (with the cam gear loose) just like you would on a non-VCT Zetec.
Alright awesome.

I love how Ford, when they pull up in there system svt, it shows a regular zetec head and not even the right bolts. Hopefully the bolt they ordered me is correct.
 
Discussion starter · #216 ·
I found the most luck when setting EVERYTHING over again. I know it sucks, but it works. (You don't have to disassemble ANYTHING!) just loosen the gears, set time and recheck.

BUT, you can do it with JUST the VCT gear, just remember, if you change the time and DON'T loosen the intake cam gear, it can let everything go back to the timing it WAS running originally (still retarded or advanced.) it only takes 1 minute to loosen the exhaust cam and tighten it again.
 
COS, thanks for this write up. On my second try, I'm now over 1000 miles with no code.

Definitely have a friend cranking on PDS of the intake cam before you start tightening it to prevent any additional play... that's my suggestion.

Also, the strap wrench on the vct housing was a ****ing great idea. Can't believe it took so long to figure out.

I also find that as you said, the exhaust cam aligns extremely easily. like it's a guaranteed no fail to get it in a good spot.
 
SO long story short just bought an SVT. timing was done in 2012 at 82k. Even before that, the last owner(my buddy) had been fighting, occasionally, limp mode presumably from timing. After doing timing perfectly it still persisted randomly and very rarely, but never throws a code. He said that even after driving it around if he popped the valve cover off he could slide the bar right in. So presumably if it is anything, its the gear being a bitch. I buy that car and 2 weeks into owning it throws 1383, car feels great no performance changes when the code went. I cleared the code in fleeting hope that it wont return.

Anyone have a car that just doesn't like its timing ever?
 
It will trigger if it's slow to respond as well. Might be time for an OIL Cleaner/Flush
The last time I did that I was 17 and treated my zetec contour like an experiment. Is there a better way of doing that than point seafoam in the oil running it for ~5min then doing an oil change?
 
201 - 220 of 272 Posts