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Discussion Starter #23
Well I think I got a tune good enough for break in. Will find out later today. Ill just have to watch my boost since I have 14psi wastegate. ANd for now I only want 9 or so. Not looking forward to the 800km or so of stop and go traffic to breakin the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So an update.
I still have a rich condition. At first warmup idle AFR is around 11.5-12 or so. Once it warms up it dropped way down to 10AFR or lower and my RPM hunts. Increasing the idle (1300RPM) did help a little. When I go for a drive it’s still on the rich side at about 10.6-10.9AFR, and between gears the car stalls. So far I’ve changed my O2 sensor, Idle control valve, new plugs (plugs were thick charred black) and tried different injectors. Going to 42# from 60# did help a bit. I also changed my oil since it was quite black and increased in level ever so slightly. I’m really hoping this rich condition didn’t wash my cylinder walls and take away life from my ring lands. What is the issue? Improper valve timing? The tune? Crank shaft position sensor out ever so slightly?
So far the car has ran for probably no more than an hour and drove for maybe 10min.
 

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Whoa now, take a step back. The care had a base tune file on it for the 42 (or 60) lb/hr injectors, right?

You definitely washed the cylinder walls with it that rich. No doubt about it. How is your idle vacuum?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I don't think I have excessive blow by since the breather hasn’t vented really at all. After I drove it for a few minutes I did get a small amount condensed vapour out of the catch can and it didn’t have a gasoline smell.
 

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As I mentioned to you on FB, you need to change tuners. This is not a mechanical issue but a tune issue. Your MAF table is at least 20% off across the board. If your tuner doesn't know that, then he has absolutely no business tuning cars.
You do need to stop driving your car, or it will wash the cylinder walls and you'll be out a lot more $ than changing tuners.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hey Mark,
I'm just waiting on a second tuner and we'll see how that goes

In the mean time I will check my valve timing just for peace of mind and also my crankshaft position sensor. I also haven’t done a compression test either. so I'll do that as well. Wobb what were you seeing for numbers with 9:1?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I havent really been driving the car other than just the little drive. Im worried about wash. Once i see a better Idle AFR then i go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Randy or Jon Lund. I've asked both and we'll see who gets back to me


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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
I don't want to directly point figures until I check timing and compression. Then I know it's not an issue that I've caused.


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If you're accurate that your vacuum is at -18inHg, then your cam timing is good. Otherwise, you'd be like me and my big cams only getting 10-12inHg at 900rpm idle. Also, having bad compression wouldn't cause a rich condition either. If it is sealing so poorly that it's going rich, it's because it's sucking oil into the chamber, not gas. You'd be getting a lot of smoke and smell.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
That vacuum number is correct it’s usually -18inHg and sometimes will drop to -17inHg. Would an improperly aligned crankshaft position sensor cause a rich condition? I know my sensor is at the very end of its adjuster. I also didn’t buy a new sensor I took the one from my 2.0. When I tried lining up the marks from the sensor to the teeth on the harmonic balancer I couldn’t get a perfect line up. I’m out by maybe 1/32” or higher. This why I was thinking I had a timing issue. I was thinking my cams are indexed properly since the bar fits nicely. But out of sync from the crank shaft and cams as a whole.
 

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I thought you were referring to cam timing. No, cps won't affect your spark timing. If you're getting spark at the plug, the CPS has done it's job. It doesn't really matter where the sensor is positioned, it's only reading the time it takes that crank to spin a full rotation. Your tune is simply dumping way too much fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I thought you were referring to cam timing. No, cps won't affect your spark timing. If you're getting spark at the plug, the CPS has done it's job. It doesn't really matter where the sensor is positioned, it's only reading the time it takes that crank to spin a full rotation. Your tune is simply dumping way too much fuel.
Should i put some oil down the cylinder and turn it over a few times with the injectors turned off to help reseat the rings from the previous wash?
 
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