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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay guys.... just did my 2.5 swap into my 2006 zx4 st.

I used a 2014 fusion engine for the swap, using the 2.3 valve cover, oil pan and dipstick tube, and timing cover. (also used all the 2.3 accessories, alternator, ac, power steering etc) Im using the 2.5 block, head and intake manifold. (with an adapter plate for the 2.3 throttle body)

Engine starts and runs but idles a bit rough and stumbles upon acceleration... that being said I am using the 2.3 fuel rail (w pressure sensor) because I figured that would assure the computer would react normally. however after everything was installed I realized that the 2.5 intake does not have the access port to feed that sensor with the vacuum pressure that it needs. (which surely is why its acting the way it is at the moment) any ideas on bypassing this or where i should try to tap into the system to gain the vacuum necessary ?

any ideas, or help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
okay, i tapped into the intake and created my own port which now ties to the fuel pressure sensor. car starts and runs, even took it out on a small drive around the block trying to get a feel for it. Still stumbles when dropping rpms and seems to stumble and hesitate bad when you give it full throttle to accelerate. Im sure its a sensor somewhere thats acting up, the throttle body seems to be functioning properly. any ideas? Im going to try to get ahold of a odb2 scanner tool and see what its throwing for codes. (i know its got a egr valve bc i deleted it.) hopefully that'll shine some light in the direction I should be looking in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
okay lol... odb2 reader shined light in the right direction. cam shaft position sensor was bad. put a new one in and its running like a damn champ. throwing two cel codes (one for egr and one for "intake runners") which I already knew it'd throw. running great, broke some tires loose and even got to give her a little bit of a rip without drawing too much heat from the cops. video will be coming soon!
 

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okay lol... odb2 reader shined light in the right direction. cam shaft position sensor was bad. put a new one in and its running like a damn champ. throwing two cel codes (one for egr and one for "intake runners") which I already knew it'd throw. running great, broke some tires loose and even got to give her a little bit of a rip without drawing too much heat from the cops. video will be coming soon!
You got a youtube video?
How fast does it run, 0 to 60?
How is the space in the engine bay vs the original engine?
 

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okay lol... odb2 reader shined light in the right direction. cam shaft position sensor was bad. put a new one in and its running like a damn champ. throwing two cel codes (one for egr and one for "intake runners") which I already knew it'd throw. running great, broke some tires loose and even got to give her a little bit of a rip without drawing too much heat from the cops. video will be coming soon!
Awesome! Glad you figured it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You got a youtube video?
How fast does it run, 0 to 60?
How is the space in the engine bay vs the original engine?
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCd-g0DvbyvtQjGdWvLralcQ is my youtube. (search for broke but functioning garage)
to answer your questions, it fits in the bay exactly like the 2.3 bc the outside dimensions of the engines are identical. aside from the egr delete and the throttle body adapter the engine bay looks completely stock after the swap. as for the 0 to 60 times etc, im not sure yet.
still ironing out some issues. the engine is in and running, but has been giving me a few problems. the cam position sensor was bad, so i replaced that. (which made a big difference) I have a large exhaust leak and am tracing down a vacuum leak, havent found it yet. car is slow to start and is idling rough off and on with no real rhyme or reason i can see. sometimes it runs perfect and feels powerful other times when I let off the gas the idle drops down to like 500 rpms and it tries to die. so its still a work in progress. as soon as i get some better footage of it running and driving i'll post it up.

Any time you do a project this large there is always little hiccups at the end. Hell i had literally every mechanical part of the driveline out of the car and then reinstalled them lol....
Im using a 2014 fusion 2.5 engine, 2.3 intake cam (with a 2.5 exhaust cam gear installed on it.), 2.3 valve cover and oil pan/dipstick/pick up tube set up, Im using the 2.5 intake manifold with a throttle body adapter.(the 2.5 is a drive by wire tb whereas the 2.3 tb was drive by cable.), Im using the 2.3 fuel rail (with a custom made intake port for vacuum) and injectors... I also did a egr delete, vct delete (which was a part of the intake cam shaft work ), and a balance shaft delete.
 

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Thanks for the info, and the video! From everything I've see about this swap, you may need a tune to smooth out some of those issues. I'm considering a standalone ECU, but there are also other options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the info, and the video! From everything I've see about this swap, you may need a tune to smooth out some of those issues. I'm considering a standalone ECU, but there are also other options.
Im thinking theyre caused by the egr delete....
Read a few mazda L engines have to have the inputs from egr at the ecu or else they will cause issues. Every issue theyve described is literally every issue i appear to have. Just need to get some time and get it all back together to see. Worth a shot lol
 

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Twins!
!
I also had to make my own lines, mine was also out of a 14’ fusion. I T’d the brake booster for the Evap vacuum line. then ran my own for the FPR. I’ll have to check codes for the cam sensor, just replaced the PCV assembly but it’s still stumbling in the lower RPM’s. Have you had any issues with idle? Can’t figure it out for the life of me but anytime I come to a stop, put it in neutral after moving, rev it etc. the idle will drop to near stall then bounce back.



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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mine is doing basically the same thing. When mine does that it also has a like 3 second delay on acceleration (which happens very alow afterwards no matter how hard the pedal is pressed.)
I did a egr delete, balance shaft delete. I ha e replaced every sensor but 1, the crank sensor, nothing has changed it. Spaced the tb accelerators w a bit of plastic to keep idle over 1000rpms... seems to have "fixed" it most of the time. Still working on it
 

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Think I might’ve figured it out, still sitting here let the ECU relearn idle. Also for reference it should be under 1000 like 700-800RPM. Anyways the massive TB adapter I have shows gaskets in the pictures online, yet they weren’t anywhere to be found with the one so received. don’t happen to have any O-ring gaskets that exact size so I’ve used some RTV. Will report back after first drive.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Im using a different adapter, one from 5 acre focus... not sure if thats gonna effect mine. I think mine is signal related, ordered a few new sensors, going to swap them and check. If not that i may look into buying the same adapter u have. I was unaware massive sold those until id already purchased the one i have.
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Im using a different adapter, one from 5 acre focus... not sure if thats gonna effect mine. I think mine is signal related, ordered a few new sensors, going to swap them and check. If not that i may look into buying the same adapter u have. I was unaware massive sold those until id already purchased the one i have.
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I wasn’t aware 5 acre made one until I bought mine lol. Design is nearly the exact same except mine allows for remote mounting not sure they make them anymore. The ones I’ve seen recently are one piece like yours.

I think believe I fixed my vacuum leak issue, although now anytime I go neutral above 35MPH the engine nose-dives and dies. I popped the 2.3 injectors in as a suggestion from another member and I believe that’s the cause, everywhere else says 2.5 on 2.3 rail. Anywho I plan on putting the 2.5 injectors back in tomorrow and ordering some nice AN lines to remote mount the Iac so it’s not hitting my rad hose.

I can confidently rule out the EGR thing someone else suggested, before I pulled the 2.3 that was already deleted and caused no issues.

honestly your issue sounds like mine now, after putting the 2.3 injectors in, either that or we both have a vacuum leak somewhere.
I went all new seals when I swapped so I know it’s nothing there, intake mani seals are new, both TB gaskets are new, fuel injector o rings are new, hell I even ordered a brand new PCV assembly, with the hose and the actual box that bolts onto the block so I know there’s nothing wrong there. I’ve gone over all the custom vacuum hoses I’ve had to run for fuel pressure sensor & Evap I know those are good, imo the only likely place is with my TB adapter which is why I’m gonna remote mount it, that and it’ll be less cluttered. I’d suggest popping the 2.5 injectors in and seeing how that does, I’ll report back tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I wasn’t aware 5 acre made one until I bought mine lol. Design is nearly the exact same except mine allows for remote mounting not sure they make them anymore. The ones I’ve seen recently are one piece like yours.

I think believe I fixed my vacuum leak issue, although now anytime I go neutral above 35MPH the engine nose-dives and dies. I popped the 2.3 injectors in as a suggestion from another member and I believe that’s the cause, everywhere else says 2.5 on 2.3 rail. Anywho I plan on putting the 2.5 injectors back in tomorrow and ordering some nice AN lines to remote mount the Iac so it’s not hitting my rad hose.

I can confidently rule out the EGR thing someone else suggested, before I pulled the 2.3 that was already deleted and caused no issues.

honestly your issue sounds like mine now, after putting the 2.3 injectors in, either that or we both have a vacuum leak somewhere.
I went all new seals when I swapped so I know it’s nothing there, intake mani seals are new, both TB gaskets are new, fuel injector o rings are new, hell I even ordered a brand new PCV assembly, with the hose and the actual box that bolts onto the block so I know there’s nothing wrong there. I’ve gone over all the custom vacuum hoses I’ve had to run for fuel pressure sensor & Evap I know those are good, imo the only likely place is with my TB adapter which is why I’m gonna remote mount it, that and it’ll be less cluttered. I’d suggest popping the 2.5 injectors in and seeing how that does, I’ll report back tomorrow.
I too have gone over all my vacuum lines and they all appear fine, Im going to get into it more tonight. Im thinking its cam sensor related (as it isnt showing up on the scanner) but i also am going to disassemble the tb adapter and redo all the seals
 
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