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Discussion Starter #1
i finally got the guys at a local junkyard to pull a complete motor from a totalled '01 zx5. im going to rebuild the motor and put it in my '02 as soon as my warranty is up. i want to do some mods, but im looking more into internals than bolt-ons. does anyone know if there is a company that makes aluminum connecting rods for the zetec motor? and also, anyone here know the maximum bore for the motor?
 

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I guess you didn't see the FJ special in Team Pit Stop. You could have had a nearly new 2001 engine for $750.dollars or a brand new "in-crate" engine for $950.


Good luck with your project!
Regards,
Gerry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well, actually im getting a "like new motor' anyways minus the shipping for $750 w/o exchange from the junkyard. the motor only has 17k on it. i really cant beat the price. besides my dad's friend own an engine machine shop so i get the labor for free. all i need to know is what i can do to it before i start buying bolt ons
 

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Anything out of a wrecked car is suspect. Just look at all of the energy that was transmitted through the car upon impact. The car was probably running at the time too.

There should be plenty of information in past posts regarding how to modify OEM components to improve their strength and performance. Some parts will need replaced with aftermarket pieces.

It just really depends on what you want as a finished product...150 h.p.? 200 h.p.? 300+ h.p.?
Naturally aspirated or turbo, etc. and how much money you want to spend.

These new engines are already built to close tolerances and improvement through machine work ONLY has it's limits. Be prepared to spend money if you want performance. Even modest improvements can be made using bolt-on items without having to open up an engine.

Just my humble opinion...
Thanks!
Gerry
 

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I recommend that you don't look at aluminum alloy rods for a street car. Although aluminum rods can be used for a drag car, aluminum will slowly elongate under tension. This makes it a poor choice for a street engine that has to last 50K miles or longer. Aluminum rods are fine for drag racing or track use where the engines are rebuilt every 1000 miles or less.

Composite aluminum rods using silicon carbide or other fibers to overcome the elongation and fatigue problems are very expensive. Titaniun rods would work but are evn more expensive.

For street use, forged alloy (4340, etc.) steel rods are a cost effective upgrade to cast or powder cast iron rods. A forged alloy steel billet rod offers 30% or more strength to weight improvement after shot peening and heat treating.

Combined with a better rod design, an alloy steel rod can provide twice the strength of stock rods at approximately twice the cost of stock rods. The alloy steel rods have the elongation and fatigue behavior that should allow them to live 100K miles or longer on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i guess my main question is, is it possible to get 225-250hp at the wheels without a turbo? i dont mind using high octane in my everyday driver. im just not too sure on how far to go with this motor and will it crater under high cylinder pressures.
its not like its a v8. hell, ive have a ford 302 that had over 400 horsepower, but there was a lot more meat there. will this motor hold up and last?
 

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to bad.
i have a 12k zetec motor in perfect shape for only 500.00.
can you take the other one back???

it sits in the garage, out of the weather and is not out of a wrecked car...
 

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Originally posted by big blue focus:
to bad.
i have a 12k zetec motor in perfect shape for only 500.00.
can you take the other one back???

it sits in the garage, out of the weather and is not out of a wrecked car...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">is your engine still available for sale? lemme know, i might be interested...
 

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it's still avaliable. p.m. me
 
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