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Small Car Czar
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Discussion Starter #1
I've been talking directly with the guys at K-Mac in Australia and have more info and a couple of questions.

1. Apparently they can provide the spherical (race) bearings that are encased in urethane. They have some designed that way for their WRX figment.
Several rally cars have been using them and the durability seems very good. They would add to the cost, but they will also offer replacement bearing kits.

Would you pay extra for urethane-encased spherical bearings? Say, $50-75 more.

2. I have a 2 sets of REAR camber kits here in the States. But, belacyrf found out that there is a figment problem. I have reported this to K-Mac and they are engineering the changes.

Are you interested in a rear kit?

Regarding a rear kit, are you more interested in positive or negative camber?

3. Based on those of you that have installed, used or seen the front kit...

Would you like more adjustment and how much?

Feel free to chime in with any comments along with answering the above questions.
 

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I think the point may have been to extend the life of the apparently short lived uncoated spherical bearings.
Then use of a better bearing is the real solution. There are many, many cars running camber plates with bearings mounted in aluminum plate that have no problems for years.
 

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Regarding a rear kit, are you more interested in positive or negative camber?
You DO know which forum you're in right?


As for bearings, yes, if you choose the right bearing, they should work. Aurora PNB-T instead of a COM-T. They are only about $30 more per pair.
 

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Actually, Rob, I could easily see someone wanting to uncamber the rear after a (big) drop for aiding in rotation in an autocross environment; the natural camber after a typical drop is about -2*---taking it back to -1 or so would indeed aide in rotation...without needing a large bar.
 

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Seems like the wrong way to go for me (destroying rear grip, instead of creating front grip) but OK.
 

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I dont necessarily subscribe to the the theory...I have a big-ish bar instead. Nevertheless, we dedicated 'cone-heads' are alot more concerned about rotation, especially at more moderate speeds--than the more track-oriented cars...in which case the stability (not twitchy in the corners) generally is the goal.

FWIW, I can think of several Neon drivers who uncambered the rear--as well as mounting their (rear) Falken 215's indide out to help rotate in autocross...
 

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Seems like the wrong way to go for me (destroying rear grip, instead of creating front grip) but OK.
Before I had any camber adjustment, my front end was 1.2 degrees negative burning up the outside edge and the rears were about 1.6 degrees negative burning up the inside edge. I knew this by feel and didnt need a pyrometer to verify. I couldnt afford $400 to properly correct the front end with good camber plates so I spent $100 on the rear bolts, added one positive degree and gained a bit more neutral handling.

Right now with the camber the way it is, the rears burn pretty evenly and the fronts get totally burnt up on the outsides. K-macs will have that fixed soon.
I think that I will have to take some of that positive camber out after the front plates go in to get back some of that rear grip.
 

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Again, I will say that there is no need for a new form of rear adjustment. It has been demonstrated above that people have been able to set the camber to what they want. The cam bolts and the wedge plates work.
 

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Yes, but neither are shiny!


Personally, I don't like the bolt method, because I think putting undersize bolts in oversize holes and controlling them with washers isn't the best idead to ever come out of Detroit.

The plates aren't great either, because it's not easy to "dial in" what you need while on the rack.

I would prefer a nice set of LH and RH threaded rod ends with a LH/RH threaded rod link, to replace the stock toe control link.

Just... not made out of the junk that FC uses.
 

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P-51, I have to agree with you on their strength.

I think they're grade 10 bolts, but when tightening them down, I was torque down to factory spec, which is like 75 or 85#s I believe and when I got to about 70, the bolt SNAPPED in half.

Eibach/SPC tq spec is 55#s. i didn't make that mistake twice.
 

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P-51, I have to agree with you on their strength.

I think they're grade 10 bolts, but when tightening them down, I was torque down to factory spec, which is like 75 or 85#s I believe and when I got to about 70, the bolt SNAPPED in half.

Eibach/SPC tq spec is 55#s. i didn't make that mistake twice.
Word. I did that too. Totally F'ing sucked.

Oh yeah, my KMAC plates came today!
 

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Small Car Czar
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Discussion Starter #16
OK, my questions concerned both F & R kits.

The part about urethane encased spherical is on the Front kit.

And yes, Rob, I know what "most" people in here would want regarding pos or neg.
I'm just asking because K-Mac asked me that directly if there was any interest in both.
 

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2. I have a 2 sets of REAR camber kits here in the States. But, belacyrf found out that there is a figment problem. I have reported this to K-Mac and they are engineering the changes.
I am currently running the front kmac camber plates and rear kmac camber bolts and I found no problems with the rear fitment. What exactly is the part that needs re-engineering?
 
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