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Adapters

10K views 36 replies 12 participants last post by  S2inProgress  
#1 ·
Currently my understanding of redrill options is as follows:

i. Redrill hubs & rotors to 4x100 or 4x114.3 (and I believe 5x100 and 5x112 have been done)
ii. Redrill a set of 4 x 1?? wheels to 4x108 with press in inserts (I've done this myself)
iii. Fill and redrill a set of 4or5x1?? wheels to 4x108
iv. I've seen a MKIII Jetta running 4x100 to 6x139.7 adapters, but I'm unsure if 4x108 to 6 lug could be an option at this time.

Adapters exist for 4x108 to 4x114.3 or 4x100 but often they're at least 20mm thick; most wheels with 4 lug bolt patterns aren't high enough of an offset and/or wide enough to utilize these adapters very well, depending on what your goals are.

While looking through some magazines I came across these two fords form the UK, both of which I believe are running adapters. The Fiesta to 5x130 and the Transit to 5x114.3, though the Transit's native bolt pattern is 5x108 so that's a lot simpler to do.

Browsing around online there are more Fiestas running Porsche wheels, but I haven't been able to find any more info on the adapters they're using.

Anyone have any more information?

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Lets try to keep the topic on adapters and not on running air/stretch/tire sizes/etc.
 
#2 ·
I know most Porsche wheels have high offsets, some in the high 50s or low 60s. I think the smallest adapter that can be made is like 25mm thick which would give you a workable offset to run a correct set of Porsche wheels.
 
#3 ·
Agreed. I believe there is a stud/hole overlap in going from 4x108 to 5x130, so mostly I'm interested in exactly what adapters these Fiestas are running, whether they're one or two piece, who manufactures them, etc.
 
#13 ·
I had a set of adapters I got off eBay that were only 15mm thick. I raced on them and cracked one. So, I would recommend a custom set with proper center bore to ensure enough metal for strength. I had a custom set that was 19mm thick. Also, u will probably have to have a void in the back of the wheel to clear the lug n nut. My wheels had this feature.
 
#5 ·
H&R makes 4x100 to 5x100 in 20mm, and 4x100 to 5x130 in both 25mm and 35mm. I'm sure there are other options as well as custom machined adapters from other companies as well.
 
#7 ·
Porsche twists on a 4x108 car?
The main point of the thread is that 4x108 to 5x130 adapters aren't nearly as readily available as 4x100 to 5x130; H&R doesn't manufacture any for 4x108 but 4x100 are easy to find due to the bolt circle being smaller (easier to manufacture to 5x130).

I'm curious as to what adapters all these UK MK6 Fiestas are using.
 
#8 ·
Pretty sure Adaptec will make you anything you want. Don't limit yourself to off the shelf stuff, I doubt any of the cars you showed used non-custom parts.
 
#10 ·
They will but I remember someone saying the smallest thickness of them would have to be 25mm for 4x108 to 5x114.3...
 
#9 ·
What I found was there is a company called rs fabrications in the uk that custom made the adapters to go from 4x108 to 5x130. From what fiestaturbo forum said, you have to personally contact them about making them. They made them back in 2008. Here's the email for their guy russell@rsfabrications.com
 
#11 ·
Adaptec will only make a 2 piece adapter (which is what is needed to go from 4 to 5 bolt) 35mm thick or larger. I've been down this road, so much so that I've got a set of 5 bolt BBS in the garage waiting to find someone who can do it with a thinner spacer. When you find one let me know, I'll happily be the guinea pig.
 
#12 ·
35mm! There you go. I knew it ended with a 5. :lol:
 
#15 ·
That is the best way to go from what I've found. You'd probably want to drill new holes so that you don't mess up the hubs for the knurls of the studs in the event you wanted to go back. At that point, I'd switch to 4x114 or 4x100 so you could also run those easily without an adapter.

Dual drill hubs > Dual drill wheels.
 
#16 ·
Adapters are great way to go. However IMHO only people that can benefit from that solution are owners of Foci with:
1. RS replica flares from F2 [the way I want to go]
2. real RS widebody
3. custom flares/widebody
4. perfect wheel [in high offset] AND are also a big fan of extreme camber, on stock body focus.

Why crappy luck? 35mm adapters are only SAFE choice. Any less than that and you are playing russian roulete, even in normal non-abusive conditions. Adaptec Speedware is way to go!
 
#19 ·
In all honesty it would be easier if you found a set of wheels with centers that are covered and just fill and redrill. :D
 
#21 ·
I agree, to an extent.

Unfortunately some of the more desirable wheels out there have either exposed lug nuts or scalloped hub faces.



For those not aware here is some info.

Something like these aren't easily converted to anything but another 5 lug pattern:


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On the other hand, this is something ideal for a fill/drill as long as the exterior has a lug cover:

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#22 ·
My RS's were flat faced 5x114 and I had them welded and then redrilled to 4x108.... worked amazingly well. Memoryfab did the work for me.

My RH's on the silver car are 4x100 and I redrilled and tapped the hubs to bolt style and matched the rotors.
I have tried a muffed set of standard VW H&R 5x130 adaptors with the centre bores opened and they worked perfectly fine on that setup. I just shelved the silver car and never got around to fitting any porsche wheels. it is possible and not difficult to do.

there are problems with either option

to safely drill and tap the hubs, you need to run a 1.25 thread pitch and finding wheel bolts in that pitch is a bastard to say the least. you could try 1.5 but i would not feel comfortable doing so unless you milled a small recess into the back side of the hubs at the bolt holes and then threaded on and welded in high grade nuts to the back side to give you extra threads for the bolts to bite into. that said, i have not tested the strength of my 4x1000 conversion as of yet... the car is currently sitting collecting Algae! :p

with welding and redrilling, you are effectively altering the structure of the metal of the wheel with heat and adding in another alloy of unknown strength compatibility before drilling it out and subjecting it to forces. now i drove my car like a idiot and never had an issue but they were also BBSs and not made of a cheap Alloy like many other wheels are. i certainly would not suggest anyone do such a thing on a Rota or whatever...

Personally, i would not recommend redrilling hubs to 4/5x114 or even 112 for that matter, there wont be enough radial meat on the hubs to be able to safely support the loads associated with how most cars get driven. besides, 4x114 is a dead pattern and it's easier to convert to 5x100 than 5x114 on focus hub, safer too. but 4x100 offers you the most flexibility thanks to decades of Civics being 4x100...

threading your hubs offers easy adaptor compatibility with all readily available VW adaptors. if some mk1/2/3 guys has 5 bolt wheels on his 4 bolt car thanks to adaptors, you can too simply be enlarging the hub bore!

you do not have to thread your hubs, you can bang in studs too very easily.

Cheers
 
#24 ·
redrilling would likely cost no more than $200 on new hubs. add in new bearings and for a lot of people you have maintenance which probably should be done anyways.

plus you tap&redrill you can run adaptors as thin as 15mm if they are made right.


unless a smoking deal can be had for a set of custom billet hubs, it seems like a big expense for a lot of people who bock at $1000+ for a set of wheels... pretty much limits the market to racers or stancers with money.
 
#26 ·
Transit connects are drum only rear though, right?
 
#28 ·
on this side of the pond, it's easier to use mazda3 rear parts in place of the transit connect stuff. Good luck finding someone to ship st225 front hubs/bearings/spindles/brakes here....

on the plus side, I've secured a rear SVT wheel bearing/hub so I can 3D-model it and see about cost of blanks.....
 
#30 ·
Being the hubs are 5x100, I think finding a rotor stateside would be easy. Supposidly, the hubs fit the knuckles and spindles on the Mk1

Nice, the blanks need to be a tad larger so that 114 can be used safely.
exactly my thoughts as well. will do some measuring soon when I can get my car up on a lift and all that jazz....will be able to do all sorts of 3d modeling then including your wilwood-under-15"wheels project, the RS front calipers on SVT project, and the front-to-rear caliper swap idea.....
 
#31 ·
Transit Connects are 5x108 ............. and so are the ST225



I don't think ford has ever made a 5x100 bolt pattern car
 
#33 ·
That's what I figured.

But I would think that for the money/time/hassle of getting parts from Europe and trying to find rotors stateside, you could probably have two sets of redrilled brand new Focus hubs and bearings that are guaranteed to fit.


Custom hubs are probably going to be in the neighborhood of $250-500 per hub, or more. I hope I'm wrong and they're cheaper, but I don't see it happening.
 
#34 ·
Custom hubs are probably going to be in the neighborhood of $250-500 per hub, or more. I hope I'm wrong and they're cheaper, but I don't see it happening.
that might be true for a small production run, but if we can get 10 people or even more, it will drastically drive down the cost....most of the cost in parts like that is the setup and tooling required to get into making them. The more you make, the more the cost of that gets distributed across the batch.

I had custom spacers priced out, and it would cost me like $300 for 4, or $400 for 20....it's like that.
 
#35 ·
Good luck getting 10 focus owners to commit to anything at one time to justify a small batch run... Hell, 3-4 is pushing it in most cases!

Lots of people will be "interested" next to none, if any at all, will actually put their money where their mouth is! :(