Sup guys! Well like the title says, im almost done removing the head off the zetec but im stuck! How do you take off the back black part (intake i guess) from the head? Thanks!
Almost done removing head but im stuck!
jvaldez
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^Yup. It's easier to take the manifold off with the head out.
Not sure how far/what you'll all pulled so far so ...
You'll have to remove the 2 8mm bolts holding the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor to the fuel rail. The line will pull out, pull straight and gently, it is plastic and can break it you pull crooked. Disconnect the electrical connection and the vacuum line, the line will swing out of the way.
You'll have to swing the alternator out of the way to get at the top bracket mounting bolt. It goes into the head and will not come out with the alternator in place. Loosen both alternator bolts, give the front bolt a good hard tap with a hammer to loosen the locking 'pin', should be able to swing it up and out of the way W/O completely removing it.
The top bolts for the power steering bracket need to come out also. You should see them with no problem.
Have to unbolt the EGR at the manifold, 2 8mm bolts.
The vacuum line to the brake booster needs to come off. It's on the lower back side of the manifold, it's a large plastic hard line. You push the connector (it's red if you can see it) in and pull the line out.
Far as all the electrical is concerned,
It's easiest to disconnect the main harness, the oil pressure switch and the knock sensor and pull all the electrical in one shot. Oil Pressure Switch is just beside the oil filter and the Knock Sensor will be further up on the block (grey 2 wire connector).
So long as the head bolts are out you should be able to pull the head off now.
If you want to pull the manifold while in the car it's just removing the 7 (?) nuts/bolts. They are 12mm IIRC. The ones on the corners, by alternator and by the cam position sensor, will be studs. It the stud turns out with the nut great, that's what you want. The studs kinda get in the way. The bolts on the lower part can be tricky to get to. I can manage with a ratcheting wrench from the top but it goes slow. 2 knuckles might be quicker, never tried it, I know I can't get them with 1. If you have long slender arms you can probably get them by coming in from the EGR side. It's tight and doesn't give you much room to move, but can be done.
Just leave the fuel injectors on the manifold, unless you're swapping. And if you're swapping be sure to have new injector O-rings on hand just in case. If the O-rings get damaged even a little they will leak. I think it's a BWD part# 799-651, it's just a universal fuel injector O-ring that most any parts store should have on hand. Cost about $2.
Use a little knife to cut the old ones off. Be gentle putting the new ones on, it will slip over the brown/gold pintle cap ... if you must remove the pintle cap you must heat them. If you try to pull it off W/O heating it, it will break.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Problems just give a holler.
Not sure how far/what you'll all pulled so far so ...
You'll have to remove the 2 8mm bolts holding the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor to the fuel rail. The line will pull out, pull straight and gently, it is plastic and can break it you pull crooked. Disconnect the electrical connection and the vacuum line, the line will swing out of the way.
You'll have to swing the alternator out of the way to get at the top bracket mounting bolt. It goes into the head and will not come out with the alternator in place. Loosen both alternator bolts, give the front bolt a good hard tap with a hammer to loosen the locking 'pin', should be able to swing it up and out of the way W/O completely removing it.
The top bolts for the power steering bracket need to come out also. You should see them with no problem.
Have to unbolt the EGR at the manifold, 2 8mm bolts.
The vacuum line to the brake booster needs to come off. It's on the lower back side of the manifold, it's a large plastic hard line. You push the connector (it's red if you can see it) in and pull the line out.
Far as all the electrical is concerned,
It's easiest to disconnect the main harness, the oil pressure switch and the knock sensor and pull all the electrical in one shot. Oil Pressure Switch is just beside the oil filter and the Knock Sensor will be further up on the block (grey 2 wire connector).
So long as the head bolts are out you should be able to pull the head off now.
If you want to pull the manifold while in the car it's just removing the 7 (?) nuts/bolts. They are 12mm IIRC. The ones on the corners, by alternator and by the cam position sensor, will be studs. It the stud turns out with the nut great, that's what you want. The studs kinda get in the way. The bolts on the lower part can be tricky to get to. I can manage with a ratcheting wrench from the top but it goes slow. 2 knuckles might be quicker, never tried it, I know I can't get them with 1. If you have long slender arms you can probably get them by coming in from the EGR side. It's tight and doesn't give you much room to move, but can be done.
Just leave the fuel injectors on the manifold, unless you're swapping. And if you're swapping be sure to have new injector O-rings on hand just in case. If the O-rings get damaged even a little they will leak. I think it's a BWD part# 799-651, it's just a universal fuel injector O-ring that most any parts store should have on hand. Cost about $2.
Use a little knife to cut the old ones off. Be gentle putting the new ones on, it will slip over the brown/gold pintle cap ... if you must remove the pintle cap you must heat them. If you try to pull it off W/O heating it, it will break.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Problems just give a holler.
how did you get the allen head bolts out??? i keep breaking my tools trying to get it out..
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791 Posts
Buy better tools! 
Kidding. You could hit it with some PB Blaster. It's a penetrating rust inhibitor, much better than WD-40. Spray some of that onto the stuck fasteners, and let it sit for a day, then come back and try again.
Kidding. You could hit it with some PB Blaster. It's a penetrating rust inhibitor, much better than WD-40. Spray some of that onto the stuck fasteners, and let it sit for a day, then come back and try again.
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2,995 Posts
T-55 Torx only!
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791 Posts
Yeah, the Craftsman ratchet bits are pretty good. I've used them for automotive and aviation maintenance for years, and I love them.
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241 Posts
I would buy a complete torques and star socket set. You never know when you'll need them for something else.... and buy craftsman because that way if it breaks you can just replace it. I've gotten nuts and bolts jammed in sockets before and just turned them in for new ones.
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