Looks like it would work well-since it shouldn't affect the rotors in any way by just cooling the charge. The only question I would have is from looking at the cooling tube that would be in the intake air stream is that there doesn't look like a lot of surface area to transfer heat (or cool) to/from. Also, you would want to have an especially wide intake so there wasn't any restriction from the cooling tube. Also, it sets up a maintenance situation of having to fill the bottle regularly. If it works well, thats probably a secondary consideration. I would like to hear from someone, anyone, who has actually installed and used this system.
I remember how much better my JRSC runs in cold weather though. You could probably turn off a device like this when it's really cold. I am sticking with my Aquamist water injection-works well and all I have to use is windshield washer fluid which is cheap enough.
Interesting idea... I'm guessing this would get installed between the MAF and throttle body, right? The only downside would be that it'd be tougher to get CO2 refills than just refilling a water tank. And I'd have a tough time convincing the tech inspectors before the autocross that I wasn't going to try to run NAAAWWWWZZZZZZ.
Nitrous is completely prohibited in SCCA Solo II competition... You can't even have an empty tank in the car when you run!
Also, how is this utilized? Would it trigger automaticially at a given RPM or boost level? Or manually like nitrous? How long would a 5 pound tank last?
Interesting concept. I'll have to read every last bit of info on their web site.
I was using 50/50 mix of isopropanol/distilled water, until I ran out of my special mix so I tried using regular windshield washer stuff. Am now on my second gallon of that and I haven't noticed any significant difference, except that the blue stuff is a lot cheaper. I will be going back to the alcohol/water mix with my next gallon. I usually mix 2 gallons up at a time and carry one in the car at all times.
I am thinking of going to the junkyard and getting another windshield washer basin from another veichle and dedicating it to the aquamist, also installing it somewhere, maybe behind the passengers side fender, this way, i have a dedicated aquamist basin
Unfortunately, no pictures. I mounted it to the front of the battery case, along with the boost sensor and main relay. I drilled through the battery case and used machine screws with washers to secure it. I experimented with remote bottles when I installed my Aquamist but found that the pump will only draw fluid from a short distance away. I tried to snake the fluid feed line down the throut of the washer bottle but couldn't get it more than a few inches down. I ended up removing the fender liner and drilling a small hole in the bottom of the washer tank. It's important to somehow get your hose to the bottom of the tank so you can make use of all it's capacity. I made the hole smaller than the flexible poly feed line so I could squeeze it and push it through. It hasn't leaked a drop since early spring. If the feed hose gets soft and brittle, I can just replace it with another 50 cent piece of hose.
Hey Nordy, I haven't been on for a while, so maybe you've answered this already: How does the aquamist system get the spray to the charge? Is it injected into the intake (before JRSC) or did you attach it to the nipple on the back of the JR intake? How did you solve the uneven dispersement issues? and how is it working power wise? (did you see any gains on the dyno?)
I just got the word from Endyn my intake & JRSC are done & awaiting the new pulley, so I'm hoping Tom has the ATX program ready.
So you are the one-I contacted Endyn a while ago about working on my JRSC blower and they said that were doing one and hadn't yet evaluated the results of the work. Can you tell us just what it is that they do to the blower?
Thanks for the update.
As for the Aquamist, I hooked it up to the predrilled port in the back of the intake manifold. I figured that if they put it there, I might as well use it. At least I didn't have to pull the blower to clean aluminum chips after drilling and tapping the hiole myself. I am just ignoring the "uneven distribution" issue. I just remember looking at the way the pump atomized the water/alcohol mix when I tested it before installation and it seemed to me that with such a fine mist along with the turbulence in the intake manifold that there shouldn't be too much "uneven distribution". I am now getting 7.5 lbs of boost with the 2.3" pulley and if I run out of water, the boost drops about 1lb. I run big injectors without a chip and don't get any detonation at all. It F-ing screams!
Endyn ports & polishes the intake manifold (lord knows it needs it - anything related to a Zetec has poor flow dynamics) and did a few things to the blower. The inside of the casing is ceramic coated which makes a tighter tolerance between the rotors & edges for better efficiency in pushing air & temperatures. They also reshape & coat the rotors (the original coating from Eaton was worn off from heat by spinning the blower at such high rpm with a 2.6" pulley). They do something to the seals too, but I didn't get into that. They are now calculating the pulley size needed to make 12lbs boost (which they say is safe after their process). I didn't get a final price, but they said in the neighborhood of $1550.00 and I'm sure shipping will be additional. The funny thing is I got 7.5lbs with the 2.6" pulley, and 9lbs under IDEAL temps (under 40 degrees with low humidity) with an ATX. I guess the unit has a longer time to build boost on an auto?