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Discussion Starter #1
I finished hooking up the J&S safeguard on my car this morning and i'm having quite a problem getting it to arm properly. The manual says to go up to highway cruising speed and stay around and dial it down so that it just stops pulling any timing. Well, even at maximum sensitivity, it doesn't show that it's pulling any timing. What's more, it pulls a LOT of timing at low rpms (1500 - 2200) at low to medium load (.4 - .6). How did you guys dial in your sensitivity? What's the best procedure you found for this?
 

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It should not be alarming if it does not pull timing at cruise at max sensitivity... provided your timing is not high enough to induce deto. I run low load at MBT and I have never had the Safeguard pull timing below 25-30% load or so.

I run mine at max sensitity all the time. I think most, if not all the guys with older unit run at max, without getting false deto indications.

With what appears to be conservative timing when running premium fuel, ie around OEM numbers, you will likely find that around 35-40% load, especially in the 3-4K range, is the area you are most likely to get deto indications. Evidently Ford must have the car running up against the knock sensor at all times in this area when on 87, at least with my ECU code.

You will find in the 40 - 60 load range with your little turbo that you will likely be in closed loop alot of the time (depending on your tranisitional settings of course - even with my extremely conserative TPS settings I stay in CL frequently at 40%), and this is when deto with aggressive OEM BKT numbers is very likely.

You can check sensitivity a couple ways. First if you pull timing where there is deto indications and the indications stop, it was deto, and you are not too sensitive.

Second, probably the easiest way, check the location and extent of any indications you get, then pour in some race fuel or toluene and see if the indications go away or at least lessen considerable... if so it was deto and you are not too sensitive.

Third, if you are sure your tune is in the ball park, you could run straight race fuel, and then increase sensitivity until indications appear... if at all.

Edited, better read again.
 

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Oh, before playing with the timing, be sure your transfer function is on the money. If it isn't your load calculations and in turn your calculated timing will be out in left field. If you later go back and correct the TF, then your timing values will all have to be redone.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm running OEM MBT timing for .02 and .04 load and OEM BKT timing up to 1.0 load (same as you, i think). This was also tested with the AC3 on low boost setting, so even at WOT, the most i ever see is 5psi. This is mostly why i find it hard to believe i'd actually have deto there.

I do have .400 lift cams which are pretty noisy and I do wonder if they could be causing the J&S to pull timing.

btw, this is the 2nd gen J&S vampire using vampire taps - which i was very sceptical about at first, but they seem to work good.



One last thing, the manual says the unit shold flash 10 times where you power it up. Mine only did that the first time around. Now everytime i start the car it only flashes once, is that OK?
 

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Do you have the remote monitor? Mine goes through a sequential 10 LED light up when I start the car and the key hits ignition on... however if you continue turning the key to start before all 10 LEDs light up, it aborts the lighting sequence.

I never paid attention to the LED on the actual unit.

Sent you a PM about timing too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the PM, thanks. Yea, i do have the monitor and when i connected the unit the first time around, it went through a 10 LED light up. Since then though, even if i just turn the key to run position, it still only flashes once. There's no "troubleshooting guide" for what the flash means, i'll contact John about that.

Edit: Nevermind, i figured it out. The LED on the safeguard unit only flashes once if the monitor is plugged in - which goes through the powerup sequence instead.
 
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