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Discussion Starter #1
My EGR valve has been making weird noises and is killing my acceleration, and I'm trying to figure out how to get rid of the noise and get back my oomph without getting a new EGR.

So far:
I whacked it with a hammer, that made it work for a couple days.
-and-
I unplugged the electronics that go into the EGR solenoid on the firewall so the valve wouldn't open any more (nice performance boost!). The CEL came on the next time I started the car, and it started running bad again, although without the noise.

How does one remove that damn thing (valve and CEL) without putting in a chip? Can I just leave the vacuum hose that goes to the valve dangling or plugged and then throw out the valve? Can I short out wires on the EGR plugs to make the ECU think I have a working EGR? Does the trick of blocking the hose that goes from EGR to intake manifold keep the CEL off?
 

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Well. There's really not much you can do other than replace the valve itself. They're really not that difficult or expensive to do, if you condsider less than $100 inexpensive. You could stick a gasket without a whole to go over the EGR port. The CEL would still come on though, because the DPFE sensor which checks EGR flow would be reading different than what the computer would want it to read.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've disconnected that little hose that goes from the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve, and that doesn't seem to be setting off any lights, I haven't checked for any codes. I would expect the DPFE to set off the CEL eventually, though.

Anyways, that hose must do something to make the valve open/close. My guess was that it would suck the valve open. Soooo, where I'm going with this, is that I'm thinking of putting a one-way pcv valve on the hose just so the DPFE doesn't get thrown off too much by the different pressures from that hose just dangling. My possibly incorrect theory is that when the solenoid sucks the valve shut, the DPFE will detect the simulated backpressure of the PCV valve and think everything is just peachy. When it comes to doing things the other way around, the PCV valve will let air go that way and the DPFE will still think everything is great.

Any thoughts?
 

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Wouldn't a failed EGR be covered under the emissions warranty which runs a whole lot longer than the standard bumper to bumper warranty?

-JBFG
 

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you could actually check to see if your EGR is working by getting a vacuum pump and pumping the vacuum up on the EGR valve itself with the engine running. If it almost stalls, it's working. If not, the valve is just stuck, probably carbon build up. Beat on it with a 3/8" drive extension to lodge it loose, it'll work for a while. I have never heard of that PCV valve idea... And the DPFE's go bad all the time, they get water in them and they are toasted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmm, well, I tried the PCV valve into the hose trick today, and it threw a CEL both ways, but only after driving for 70-[censored] miles either way (Long commute to/from work).

Now that the light is on, I'm thinking that I'll just try that extended emissions warranty idea. I didn't remember that it existed. I usually avoid dealers, mostly because every time I take my car in for warranty, it is somehow my fault (EG, drops of water in gas tank, so fuel pump failure is not covered).

I did smack the valve with a hammer a few times, it stopped squeaking and worked for a couple days, but went back to squeaking/sticking. I think it might be a cold/warm day thing as well, it has gotten better now that the weather is warmer here in MD.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
UPDATE:

That emissions warranty is pretty crappy. I tried a nearby Ford dealer and they tried to turn it into a cat and PCM warranty only, and I have to pay diagnostics before they will even consider screwing the warranty out from under me. Bastards!

In any case, I would have to rent a car while my car was being fixed (disadvantage of having 100 mile commute every day) and that would cost more than the new part. Arrr! EGR!
 
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