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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys, in a couple months i am going to drop my ride, put some 18's on and a 25mm sway bar.
what should i do to the engine just to increase reliability?
only power mods i want to do at this point is an exhaust.
you guys are going to laugh but right now i am running the stock exhaust. cut off right before the muffler. actually sounds pretty good. and adds a couple of horses. definite noticable increase. but anyways. little bit of a budget build. what should i do? just a good top end build? valves, seats, valvetrain, i.e. springs, retainers etc?
oh and by the way. H20boy. your tranny gone yet? hehehe. need to go whoosh again. hehe
bryan
 

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That all sounds pretty cool, but if you are a budget guy, save the cash you'd spend on the 18's and get nice tires for some stock rims.
 

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Don't Call Me Gaga!
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18's will make extremely poor autocross wheels.

As for the rest of it, don't just buy mods for an "auto-x" build... you'll end up in a class that you can't possibly be competitive in.

Pick a class and don't mod beyond those rules.. something like STS.
 

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hey guys, in a couple months i am going to drop my ride, put some 18's on and a 25mm sway bar.
what should i do to the engine just to increase reliability?
only power mods i want to do at this point is an exhaust.
you guys are going to laugh but right now i am running the stock exhaust. cut off right before the muffler. actually sounds pretty good. and adds a couple of horses. definite noticable increase. but anyways. little bit of a budget build. what should i do? just a good top end build? valves, seats, valvetrain, i.e. springs, retainers etc?
oh and by the way. H20boy. your tranny gone yet? hehehe. need to go whoosh again. hehe
bryan

Get a long tube header, mbrb exaust ($199 www.mbrp.com), and CAI for engine mods. Leave the valve train alone for now, you will want to learn how to properly drive your car on the track first.

Get a good suspension, Spax makes an adjustable kit which is roughly $400ish www.batinc.net

Get a good euathane kit for your suspension since your going to be doing that anyways.

H&R makes a good rear sway, I'd recomend starting out with just the rear sway at first then upgrade the front after a full season of auto-xing.

Also stay far far away from anything bigger than 16's get soem 16's with smaller, grippier rubber. look at some Faulken Enzie's (sp?) or Kuhmo 712's.

- Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That all sounds pretty cool, but if you are a budget guy, save the cash you'd spend on the 18's and get nice tires for some stock rims.
well. im not going for stock rims. i want the widest rims i can go at least. I have an lx with 14" steelies.. screw stock rims. i may find some good svt rims and do it that way. but im also kind of going for a certain look. im just wondering what is the problem with 18's? would they slide alot? ill get the suspenion answered in suspension. i just basically want the reliability down. ill have about 6-7k to drop down if everything goes right.and i am already pretty good at driving my car. have never hit a single cone to date. i just have problems with nav through the cones. but once i get that down. its on!
 

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That's alot of rotational mass, really. You get into gearing ratios when you change rim size, and honestly, I don't know squat about it. I'd recommend going into the Auto-X forum and ask about rim size there.

Something that big (even if they are "lightweight") is going to detract from your straight-line speed, too.
 

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I agree with you guys, to a point. I run OZ Superleggera 17's with Kumho Ecsta Supras. The weight is a shade less, and the diameter is the same as my stock 15's. So my speedo stays the same, gearing is the same, all that. I didn't do it on purpose, it just happened that way.

And for the life of me I can't kill the transmission. 65k of thrashing and it just keeps coming back for more.
 
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