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Discussion Starter #1
1st. post. Hey y'all. I looking at a 2000 wagon to buy for my daughter. I've got it for a few days to check out. When I start driving in the morning it has a fairly loud and low growling, howling, or vibrating noise and sensation. However it doesn't really feel like it's vibrating or shuddering, it just sounds like it. After driving for 20 minutes the odd noise has gone away and the car drives fine. All shifts seem normal with no slippage. During this warm up time, if I make a full lock left turn all is ok. However, if I make a full lock right turn the growling noise remains. There is no clicking at all. Again, after 20 minutes of driving all is fine.

It sounds to me like fluid might be draining out of something (trans. passageways, torque converter, or...?) and slowly pumps back up until the sound and running action is normal. Trans.? Power steering? (It steers fine.) Any ideas??? Thanks.
 

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Hmmm.... that doesn't really sound like an ATX problem to me. Any other clues? You might also check the color of all the fluids in the car to see how recently they've been changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
More clues? The trans fluid was changed shortly before the car went up for sale. Also, probably a better description for the sound it makes is...groaning or booming, a non-metallic, non-scraping sound. What about a restricted catalytic converter? A couple of days ago it threw off a Bank 1 code so the seller changed that. The next day it gave a Bank 2 code and that was changed. Hours later it again gave a Bank 1 code. No other codes have come up for anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just got back from the repair shop. They're perplexed. They heard and felt the groaning noise and the vibration and saw how it isn't there on hard left turns but is on hard right turns, as well as straight ahead - when cold and warming up. They drove it and put it up on the hoist. After 20 minutes of running this condition pretty much phases out. The motor mounts seemed ok as well as the cv joints. He really wanted it to be the power steering pump but there just wasn't enough evidence to warrant changing it. I'm going to take it back there Sunday evening so they can drive it cold on Monday morning. They'll turn their attention more to the transmission if no new ideas pop up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
My problem has been resolved. It was the motor mounts. There is a large hydraulic fluid filled mount at the top of the engine on the passenger side that goes weak and you can't evaluate it without taking it off. It allows metal to metal contact when cold and then loosens up a bit when hot (it gets hot) and the sound lessens. That's the main culprit. Then there are two other mounts, one a transmission mount that's on the driver's side and changes from the top and the third is a Torque Strut mount and changes from underneath. I changed the first and will now change the other two, although the first resolved 90% of the problem. I ordered the 2nd & 3rd from www.rockauto.com and they're fast and very cheap. The difficulty level is 3 out of 5. Good luck.

Note: When changing the torque strut mount, be sure to take most of the weight off the front wheels by placing a hydraulic floor jack under the frame; this will let you move the engine forward and back with a long screwdriver for leverage so you can take pressure off the two bolts making it very easy to remove them and the mount. You can do this driving the front up on ramps and placing the jack under the center of the connecting frame element; or, jack up each side of the front and place jack stands under the frame (not suspension!) on each side. You only need to take 3/4 of the wieght off the suspension; the wheels do not need to be dangling freely.
 
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