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grbrgrnzx5

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Okay, I've been doing some shopping to replace my nearly 6 year old OEM battery. I decided to look for a lightweight unit to replace the big heavy thing, and I have come to the conclusion that I want a dry-cell battery. Two brand names have come up during my research. One of which is, of course, Optima. The specs are as follows for the Optima:

Cost: $140
Length: approx. 9.3"
Width: approx. 6.8"
Height: 7.625"
Weight: 32 lb
Cranking: 910A
Cold Cranking: 720A

Sounds like a pretty good deal. The other name that came up was Braille. I have never heard of Braille prior to doing my search, but here is what I came up with from them:

Cost: $171
Length: 6.6"
Width: 5.2"
Height: 6.8"
Weight: 21 lb
Cranking: 742A
Cold Cranking: 550A

That also sounds pretty good, since the factory battery has a cold cranking rating of 500A, so I suspect that both batteries will provide adequate starting power. As for any of this stuff that I am checking out, is there anything that I ought to consider before I make my decision? I am leaning toward the Braille unit, as it is so much smaller and lighter than even the Optima, but if there is anyone out there with additional input, I would be very appreciative and weigh the opinion in on my decision. Thanks in advance.
 
I don't see any problems as long as it fits. I'm bookmarking this page for when I need one. 21lb sounds great! Thanks.:thumbup:
 
Optima:

Cost: $140
Length: approx. 9.3"
Width: approx. 6.8"
Height: 7.625"
Weight: 32 lb
Cranking: 910A
Cold Cranking: 720A




Braille:

Cost: $171
Length: 6.6"
Width: 5.2"
Height: 6.8"
Weight: 21 lb
Cranking: 742A
Cold Cranking: 550A
So what're the specs on the OE battery?

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Okay, here it is:

My car is equipped with a Motorcraft BXT-96R. An alternate listed part number for our vehicle is BXT-40R. All measurements listed are for the -96R and are approximations, since they were hand measured with a graduated ruler and therefore should not be considered 100% accurate. Length and width measurements are top dimensions only. Any increased thickness at the bottom of the battery was not measured.

Length: 10.375" (10 3/8" if you prefer)
Width: 7.875" (7 7/8")
Height: 7.875"
Weight: Unknown (didn't have an accurate enough scale handy, figure approx 40 pounds)
Cranking Amps: Unknown
Cold Cranking Amps: 500A.

These figures are not set in stone. They may be off by as much as 1/4", but they are lose enough to see that either battery will easily fit under the battery cover without modifications. Modifications to the tray/hold down strap will be required in order to retain either aftermarket battery securely.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
It is smaller and more expensive, but if you compare the cranking amps and cold cranking amps to a stock Focus battery (at least the BXT-96R that my car came with) it outperforms it. Cold cranking amps are up 50 from stock, and with a lighter overall weight (figure 1/2 of the stock battery weight) the only thing that you are losing is battery reserve time.
 
grbrgrnzx5 said:
It is smaller and more expensive, but if you compare the cranking amps and cold cranking amps to a stock Focus battery (at least the BXT-96R that my car came with) it outperforms it. Cold cranking amps are up 50 from stock, and with a lighter overall weight (figure 1/2 of the stock battery weight) the only thing that you are losing is battery reserve time.
as i understand CCA is a result of more plates/surface area.

more of them in a simmilar size package leads to a more delicate battery because they are thinner... (especially now - for deep cycle, as i understand it.)

i recon you can get the CCA up to crazy amounts if you built a battery like a thin-film-capacitor, but im not sure i like the sound of that in my focus...

for me i would want reasonable/moderate CCA for my climate and ability to hit the battery really hard on cold nasty nights with bad weather when EVERYTHING is turned on (and the wet belt issue where the alt slips and drops out) - and even be able to limp a few miles like that if my alternator failed totally without damaging the battery or running out of juice.
(EDIT: this is known as deep cycle i believe, and it is polar opposite to a high CCA battery with lots of surface and thin plates-but i havnt paid attention to battery technology for about a decade... so my view might be dated)

thats my perspective, but batteries are a VERY use-specific type of deal, and the right one for you is a tall order that must be met.
 
My $.02

I recently put an Optima D35 Yellow Top battery in my 03 SVTF to replace my OEM battery and I am very pleased with its performance. It is their deep cycle battery that also provides superior cranking amps (650 CCA & 810 CA) compared to the OEM piece (500CCA as listed above). I didnt weigh the OEM battery before I dropped it off for recycling either but the Optima is noticably lighter.

The starter seemed to be struggling to turn over on the coldest mornings with the tired OEM battery but with the fresh Optima my car now jumps to life when I turn the key.

I choose the deep cycle battery because I also have a 400W AC power inverter hardwired for powering my laptop and camping use and wanted to be able to use it without having to continuously idle the car. The Optima has tons of reserve for its size and I have yet to find the lower limits of its capacity in the short time I have been using it.

The D35 is the best fit for the focus from Optima but still requires a minimum amount of modification to make it fit perfect:

You need to lengthen the nylon tie down strap by about 3/4" by making a new hole for the tie down bolt in the strap, as well as move a ground wire to allow the negative terminal to reach the post without binding on the bracket it passes under. I can post a picture of the ground that needs to be moved if needed, but it should be obvous when you get in there.

Also, because of the slightly different battery post locations on the Optima, the factory plastic battery cover will not fit without modification. I just tossed mine and used plastic caps over the terminals.

I would recommend the Optima.

-Jeff
 
Odyssey makes outstanding batteries. They are dry cell and very small (and light) The Odyssey PC925 has 925cca, weighs 26# and measures 6.64" x 7.05" x 5.04". The PC680 has 680cca, weighs 15.4# and measures 7.25" x 3.37" x 5.17". The down side for these small batteries is the reserve capacity. If you are running large amps etc, don't go with one of the small batteries, get the Optima (Yellow).
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
FordFociSHO said:
Oh, and I have heard of Braille before. Haven't heard anything bad about them. Carbon Fiber battery would have the bling factor.
But the carbon fiber is $$$! You are correct about the "blingosity", however.
 
Hi guys, got a question on this too if anyone can help out? I'm looking into one of these over here in the UK and was hoping I could get some advice...

It's been suggested that if I'm putting one of these in my car (2002 2.0 ZX5 I think in US terms?) I will need to get the ECU reprogrammed with a different charge voltage? Anyone heard of this? Something to do with the Smart Charge system on the alternator.

I wouldn't have thought this would be a UK/US difference but you never know...

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Hmmmm...never heard of that. But I'm not much of an electrical whiz. I would have thought that any 12V automotive battery would require pretty much the same charge voltage.
 
here is my take on this whole thread:

If you really are concerned about weight, stick with a traditional battery that is heavier and move it to the trunk. It'll help the weight distrobution a little.

Batteries with higher CCA sacrifice some longevity for the higher CCA rating. Im fine with that and so are alot of other people. The battery I buy for my car isnt listed as a focus application but its the same size. Difference is its 875CCA where the stock battery is 550. It typically lasts 4 years.

As far as blackwings comment, I dont believe it to be true. System voltage is based on exactly that, voltage. cranking amps will have absolutely no effect on system voltage. ECU reset is not necessary and in my experience, hardly ever is. Despite what you read on forums.
 
Cheers for you help! That's exactly what I'm doing - putting the battery in the boot, but it needs to be a sealed AGM/Gelcell one which wont give if fumes when it's charging.

Given everyone on hear who appears to have fitted Optimas completely trouble free I'm just going to go with that and see how I get on...

Thanks :D
 
I like the weight distribution thing, but the long cable runs and engine compartment grounds are a pain with that arrangement. I like the lighter battery idea better, both for servicing electonics and for total weight reduction.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Indeed. I stuck my braille in my car this weekend. It didn't fit all that well (smaller in width and length than the OEM battery) so I had to modify the hold down strap by punching a new hole into it. Then I ghetto rigged a piece of dowel in between the strap anchor and the side of the battery to hold it fast. The battery cover did not fit so I had to toss that. Other than all of that stuff, it seems decent. I've put a couple hundred miles on the car and had no difficulties with charging the battery, so I figure that the thing will work out okay. Hopefully I can get a few years out of it to justify the expense. ;)
 
Gone for the Optima one myself, picking it up at the weekend... Quite an extreme difference in price, I've got a bargain second hand one over here in the Uk for just about $200... They're around $350 new over here...

Have to see how I get on, hopefully there shouldn't be any issues!
 
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