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Discussion Starter #1
Well, this will be the second time in 2 years time that I will have had to have the front rotors on my Focus turned. I don't have any signs that the calipers are seized or any major brake pad wear, the rotors just keep warping. Im wanting to upgrade to the EBC rotors that are dimpled and slotted. Anyone recommend these. I just want any upgrade from stock, not major 13" dinner plates as I still have drums in the rear. If anyone has any they recommend, feel free. Thanks -Eric
 

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Second time in 2 YEARS? I'd be thrilled to have my rotors last that well. In 2.5 years, I'm on my second pair of rotors, and the second pair have already been turned once, and they now need it again.

Someone here recently posted a URL to an article describing how "warping" is really a misnomer. That what's really happening is uneven deposition of brake pad material caused by improper braking technique. I've been taking a closer look at my braking habbits after reading this article. I wonder, though, if brake pad material has more effect on "warpage" than does the rotor itself.

I'm also going to make sure that I properly break in the rotors and pads after the next turning. This is very important to rotor life.
 

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just get some solid discs, either brembo or ebc OEM-replacements. they will last longer than any of the fancy stuff and are way cheaper. if you're on your second+ set in two years you seriously need to work on your braking or it won't matter what you get. i'm at 47K on my original pads and rotors with plenty of pad and rotor left, and i autocross a lot.
 

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I wonder how much the brand of rotor really matters when it comes to uneven deposition of brake pad material. I suspect that is determined most by improper/nonexistant break-in, bad braking habbits, and maybe pad material. Of course, I could be talking about of my butt, too.

As far as my pads, I'm still on my first pads, and there's still quite a bit of material left. I also find it odd that I'm having constant "warpage". I never did before. My brakes on my 1991 Escort GT did not do this so quickly, and neither did the OEM brakes on my 1997 Contour SE (but the Raybestos rotors I got did, as did the ones I got from BAT). I guess my braking habbits have changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't brake badly.
I have been watching my style of driving. I'm not a greenlight racer to the next red light, so I dont toast them that way.I was looking at my rotors again and I did notice that one rotor has a crack in it. Must be excessive heat build up. I took it to Ford and told them my woes and spoke to the service dept manager and he has offered to pay for half of my new bought rotors (but they want to put them on) I said no. I am tired of Ford shooting me the bill for [censored] they should pay for. So Im gonna go with the solid Brembo's on tirerack and do the work myself. My pads are in great condition, but I'm going to toss them for some new greenstuff pads from EBC and see how they hold up. Thanks for the help guys
 

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I would recommend Powerslots over the EBC's, the Powerslots are a better cast rotor.

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Thanks. I, too, was considering the EBC rotors as my next rotors. I'll give the Power Slots a try.
 

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I don't brake badly.
I have been watching my style of driving. I'm not a greenlight racer to the next red light, so I dont toast them that way.I was looking at my rotors again and I did notice that one rotor has a crack in it. Must be excessive heat build up. I took it to Ford and told them my woes and spoke to the service dept manager and he has offered to pay for half of my new bought rotors (but they want to put them on) I said no. I am tired of Ford shooting me the bill for [censored] they should pay for. So Im gonna go with the solid Brembo's on tirerack and do the work myself. My pads are in great condition, but I'm going to toss them for some new greenstuff pads from EBC and see how they hold up. Thanks for the help guys
I have solid Brembos now, and they "warped" after only a few weeks. And, frankly, I don't think my braking habits are bad, either. It's my understanding that "bad" braking habits are not what you describe, but have more to do with technique (proper, gradual increasing of pressure until you are firmly pressing the brakes when you come to a stop). I have always done it this way. I suspect that in my case, "warpage" is due to instances where I'm driving in heavy expressway traffic on I-75 (usually) and have to hit my brakes hard and quickly to stop in time (like when idiot cops insist on pulling over multiple drivers in a 1 mile stretch of busy I-75 highway during rush hour, causing traffic to suddenly come to a stop, and, apparently yesterday, an accident).

After my next rotor turning, I will be sure to properly break-in my rotors, as I've read from several reputable sources that this is the most important thing you can do.
 

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Your lugnuts must be torqued in the proper pattern with the proper amount of tourque to each bolt or rotor warping will occur also.

I'm sure many of you, if not all of you, know that. I figured I'd bring it up for those who don't.
 

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Seriously people, when will you realize that you won't warp your rotors because of "that one time I stopped hard". I have 30k miles on my car and am on my 4th set of rotors, well actually I just upgraded top SVT brakes. Any way, I am REALLY hard on my brakes, track days will do that. For example, the last track day my rotors were almost 600 degrees AFTER the cool down lap. Here's the mystery I have NEVER warped my rotors. On the 2nd set I developed what some might think was warpeg but it was simply a build up of pad material that got cooked on.

Solution: I took a stiff wire brush to the rotors (removed) and folloed it up with some 60 grit sandpaper. After a little easy driving, problem solved.

End of discussion.
 

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Seriously people, when will you realize that you won't warp your rotors because of "that one time I stopped hard". I have 30k miles on my car and am on my 4th set of rotors, well actually I just upgraded top SVT brakes. Any way, I am REALLY hard on my brakes, track days will do that. For example, the last track day my rotors were almost 600 degrees AFTER the cool down lap. Here's the mystery I have NEVER warped my rotors. On the 2nd set I developed what some might think was warpeg but it was simply a build up of pad material that got cooked on.

Solution: I took a stiff wire brush to the rotors (removed) and folloed it up with some 60 grit sandpaper. After a little easy driving, problem solved.

End of discussion.
I'm not sure, but I don't think this gibes with what that URL I mentioned stated. I think it was precisely bad braking habbits that cause the uneven distribution of brake pad material on the rotor (and the article stated unequivocally that there is no such thing as brake warpage)--that combined with improper breaking-in of rotors and pads, which I've read numerous times from numerous sources is crucial to keeping brakes performing properly.
 

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If you can find that URl, I'd be interested.

The truth is that you are partly right, that pad material deposition is a concern, however to say that warping is not a reality is false.

Warping occurs from uneven heating/ cooling of the rotors. One contributor to this can be technique. If you stop hard and then leave your pads on the rotor (common in Auto trans) then the rate of cooling will be different in the area where the pads are covering the rotor. This can cause thermal stress sufficient to yield the rotor material.

The wire brush and sanding technique is useful - just look at any WRC service area - every team has some poor bloke sanding rotors on the vehicle.

The other issue us Lateral runout, this helps to measure the out of flatness of the rotor, and can be paired with thickness variation to indicate 'warping'.

I'm not calling into question the pad deposition issue, I'm just stating that rotor damage is an issue to consider.
~Paris
 

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How are the brakes on the focus anyway in terms of quality. As I've only had my focus since July so I'm not sure on the quality of them yet. Although brake dust seems to accumulate.
Would anyone recommend any big brake kits?

-Jeff
 

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Okay, perhaps I wasn't that clear. I'm nopt saying that warping CAN'T happen, I'm just saying that 80-90% of the people that think they have warped rotors probably don't.


Stopping hard will not warp rotors. Working your brakes hard and spraying them down with cold water, done enough, will warp them. Working your brakes hard and parking in one place might warp them.

All I'm saying is that I have never warped my rotors even after using them about 10 times harder and longer than most of the people on this board. Go ahead, take the long way home through the twisties, get out and use a laser thermometer on your rotors. See if you can even get them to 300 degrees. With my brakes, after a cool down lap where I would down shift instead of breaking, my brakes would be anywhere from 537 degrees to maxing out the thermometer, which is just under 600. Did I mention that I also have an SVT bumper which I modified so that the fog light holes are now 3" brake ducts.

I'm just saying....
 
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