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Broken drivers seat

33K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  Robsteeler66  
#1 ·
I have had a problem for a couple months now and it is getting very annoying. Something is broken in the back of my basically what happens is the right side of the seat will not stay in place. It's hard to explain, but the left side locks in place and stays put. The right side moves freely so the right side is leaned way back while the left side is normal. So, I end up sitting at a weird angle. Plus the seat gets in the way when I try to put my daughters car seat in the back.

My question is, has anyone else had this problem? Is it something that could be fixed? If so, who would fix it (dealership? Interior shop?) and how much would it cost? Would it be cheaper to buy a used replacement?

If it matters I have an 05 ST with the black cloth seats with red inserts.
 
#2 ·
It's your seat tracks that are screwed up. The catch on the right side broke, and so there's nothing locking it in place.

You can replace the entire seat via junkyard swap, or just the tracks themselves. The tracks are probably riveted to the seat, so you'll have to grind the rivets off and figure out a way to reattach track to seat, but it shouldn't be too horrible to do.
 
#3 ·
Grinding rivets, hammering with an air hammer, cutting with reciprocating saw, hitting with big heffing hammer. Removing brackets on a factory seat is the suck.
 
#4 ·
It is not the seat rails. It is something in the seat back itself. The seat part stays put fine, but the seat back is what is loose. Basically, I have to lean back like a pimp everytime I drive the car : )
 
#6 ·
Ah, yes, the welds royally suck on the stock Focus seats. I had to have the bottom seat cushion side bolsters brazed in place after my fat ass broke them.
 
#8 ·
I kinda figured it was a broken weld somewhere. How much did it cost you to have it fixed? It's one of those things that seems like you'd be able to get fixed pretty cheap, but I am not sure.
 
#9 ·
In my case, it was $15 to get my repair made. But your repair is different and more involved. It'd likely be easier just to pull one out of a junkyard.
 
#14 ·
My '06 C-MAX exhibited these symptoms. I found that the height adjuster has a tube linking the left and right parts. I call it a "Torque tube" for want of a better name. It is just a tube with levers welded at each end, however it all seems a bit lightweight to me. The tube had broken the weld at the left hand lever and then the tube itself fractured. To remove the offending part, get a small socket set and some torx drive bits. Remove the seat by undoing four holding down bolts and disconnect the multiplug. I had disconnected the battery in case the airbags or whatever played silly buggers. With the seat out, carefully remove plastic trim. Undo four torx bolts to disconnect the side frames. I only moved these far enough to get access to the torque tube torx bolts. Undo (four of) these and wiggle the tube out. I don't know if Ford sell these separately, I just welded mine back together for the noo. And reassembly is easy enough. Took me a couple of hours and cost nowt. If you're paying for labour it may be cheaper to source a seat complete. Hope this helps.
 
#15 ·
what model years are drop-in replacements for the driver seat? include wiring harness when thinking about this.
 
#16 ·
Any thing from 00 to 07 will bolt right in, but the wiring harness won't necessarily match up. Sedans have a rectangular plug, hatches, a square one. Also, as far as I have been able to determine, each year's air bags are different (resistance-wise) so an air bag light is likely if you change years from stock. I have an 05 ST with 03 SVT seats (front and rear), and have been struggling to get the air bag light off.
This thread has some useful information. http://forums.focaljet.com/interior-modifications/608828-final-svt-seat-swap-thread.html
Good luck.
 
#17 ·
if you can measure the resistance of the original and the new. you could add or remove as needed to get the light to go out.
adding is more straight forward. might even be able to use a variable resistor to get the exact value you need.
subtracting is done by putting a resistor in parallel with your seat but the math is a pain. could use a variable resistor there too but the starting value would be different.
if you want to try either of these ideas, start by measuring the resistance of the seat wiring and we can go from there.
 
#19 ·
My Drivers seat did the same thing. I took it to an upholstery shop, but you could do it yourself. I got a junkyard seat, then the shop welded in some reinforcements and put my upholstery on the new frame. Been fine ever since.