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My camber plates came in, now I'm starting to think about other little details for when I work on the car over the winter. The concept of safety wiring the axle nuts has come to mind. Any thoughts on that?
I check the axle nut torque each morning before I go out on track and have never had them loose torque on their own.
Each time I have found a loose axle nut, it was due to failure of the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Quick post for those looking for feedback: I put the 624lb springs in the rear of the car and was a bit torn... They're definitely on the stiff side of streetable, but grip out back improved and the car rotated much better than before. I've had a bit of push on turn-in in the past, but that has now disappeared. It rotates well throughout the turn, and I'm now able to apex much later. These are certainly not springs for the faint of heart, though.
 

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Quick post for those looking for feedback: I put the 624lb springs in the rear of the car and was a bit torn... They're definitely on the stiff side of streetable, but grip out back improved and the car rotated much better than before. I've had a bit of push on turn-in in the past, but that has now disappeared. It rotates well throughout the turn, and I'm now able to apex much later. These are certainly not springs for the faint of heart, though.
Damn, that's alot of spring, I bet it does rotate. I'm going up on my rear springs if taking camber out of the rear doesn't help.
 

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Those plates are easy to work with, and give as much as 3 additional degrees of camber. Measure the centerline and how much neg you want to go. We have to remount ours as the current location and the new hoosier tire doesn't require as much neg as the kumho we ran last season. Yes we use a tire pyrometer to check temps after every run and have been pulling out camber this season. 2.1-2.2 neg is all the hoosier requires to get us a great temp spread on track. We are running the hoosier SM 7 tire 205/50-15 with great success.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thats good to hear, post some pics of the camber plates if you can, and the cuts. What springs do you have in the front now?
I haven't installed the camber plates yet, that probably won't happen until the winter. The fronts are still standard H&R coilover springs. I can feel the difference in roll between front and rear in the midpoint of a corner, but it's really not too bad. I was expecting a very tail-happy car after the install, but I haven't seen that.
Damn, that's alot of spring, I bet it does rotate. I'm going up on my rear springs if taking camber out of the rear doesn't help.
I've still got to take a bit of camber out of the rear of my car, but wheel offset is limiting.
Those plates are easy to work with, and give as much as 3 additional degrees of camber. Measure the centerline and how much neg you want to go. We have to remount ours as the current location and the new hoosier tire doesn't require as much neg as the kumho we ran last season. Yes we use a tire pyrometer to check temps after every run and have been pulling out camber this season. 2.1-2.2 neg is all the hoosier requires to get us a great temp spread on track. We are running the hoosier SM 7 tire 205/50-15 with great success.
I really like them and am looking forward to the install. Thanks for the information!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I still haven't installed the Race Plates since I don't have the second pair of springs I'd need to switch to 60mm, but that will be happening soon.

-I've got my track setup worked out for 2015: I will be running the Borbet Type Bs with 205/40 RT-615Ks, since I don't really have any other choices in that size. Hopefully they will be worth the money, I've heard mixed reviews about their predecessors. I was hoping to find some slicks in an appropriate size, but that wound up being a bust.

-I will be moving away from heim joints with my new toe arm setup, as they are of no use in a street car. They wear very quickly and make an unbelievable amount of noise. Threaded bushing ends will be taking their place. I'm hoping to tackle the suspension work in February. I've got to do ball joints, toe arms, and camber plates/spring conversion for the front. I will porbably be tossing in the Delrin steering rack bushings at the same time. At that point, I will be considering my suspension work "finished" for now, no need for any BS tubular arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
For anyone who has been paying attention to the spring rate discussion in here, I got the 560s installed in the front of my car recently. The combod of 560f/674r is incredible! I was planning on having the Bilsteins re-valved to match the springs this winter, but that is clearly not needed. The car rides beautifully, and the overall feel is massively improved over the original coilover springs. I think these springs will be a terrific match for the Falken 615s.
 

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For anyone who has been paying attention to the spring rate discussion in here, I got the 560s installed in the front of my car recently. The combod of 560f/674r is incredible! I was planning on having the Bilsteins re-valved to match the springs this winter, but that is clearly not needed. The car rides beautifully, and the overall feel is massively improved over the original coilover springs. I think these springs will be a terrific match for the Falken 615s.
What Bilsteins are you running?
 
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