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Discussion Starter #1
Let me start by saying that yes I am 110% sure that I found TDC. I verified it by the line on my Esslinger UDP, the screwdriver in the #1 piston and the cam bar. They all say yes your at TDC. I am trying to install STR cam gears. I have as of 22mins ago 24 hours to get this fixed as I have to be at a show in Toronto this weekend that will get me in two magazines and one newspaper.

What the car is doing, now. idle is fine for about 5sec then drops below 700rpm. The one time I did try to drive it in-between the 4th and 5th time that I took everything apart the car was missing under power and sort of sounded like a steam engine (chug chug)

I had trouble understanding the belt tensioner part of the install I got it back together but I can't get the little needle pointing exactly back in the middle of the U. When the car is running the marking is almost up in the 1 o'clock position and when I rev it up it moves around. I read in the instructions with the AEM install kit that the cam gears need to be able to move do the str's? they came with no instructions.

I will be checking for the next few hours to see if anyone posts a response.

PLEASE HELP
 

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The mark on the pulley is not accurate. You need to put the keyway at 12 o' clock and use the crank pin for exact TDC. The tensioner marks are there just for the initial install, it will move.

Have you timed the engine, then turned the motor over 2 or 3 times by hand and re-checked your settings?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya I have each time it seems to be a tad off. There are marks on the side of the gears a little line equally spaced around the gear in 4 places. these marks are lined up together when I think I'm at TDC but when I crank the engine over 2 or 3 times they are out by what looks like one tooth. Am I out by one tooth on the install??

What do you mean by Keyway?

[ 08-29-2002: Message edited by: Euro Ford Fan ]</p>
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok well I think I found my problem.

The timing belt tensioner will not even go near the line any longer. Without tension it sits in about the 3 o'clock position. When I try to apply tension instead of moving up it moves further down. I also noticed that the right side of the belt is tight but the left is loose, is that more of the same problem?

I even checked TDC again with the crank pin man that thing is a PITA to use... it was stopping the UDP exactly where I had been. the line on the Esslinger UDP was straight down.

So I guess it's another tow back to the dealer.. Hell I only just got the bill for last weeks repairs this should put me over
2G


[ 08-29-2002: Message edited by: Euro Ford Fan ]

[ 08-29-2002: Message edited by: Euro Ford Fan ]</p>
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bump any ideas?
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Euro Ford Fan:
I also noticed that the right side of the belt is tight but the left is loose, is that more of the same problem?<hr></blockquote>

It sounds like your at least a tooth or so off...
 

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ok ONCE AND FOR ALL HERE IS HOW YOU DO IT RIGHT?:


When you go to put it all back together, with the metal bar holding the cams straight, put the cam gears on BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM. Then put the belt on and tighten the belt. THEN tighten the cam gears and finally take out the tool

This way, when you put the belt back on, it usually doesnt go on totally evenly and you have to pull one side of it to fit. If the cam gears are bolted tight, this will suck, because after you take the cam tool out, right away, your cams are goonna move out of place. SO put the belt on before you tighten the gears. Let the belt settle and pull the gears whichever wway, when it is nice and snug, then tighten the gears, you will get it perfect every time this way

GOOD LUCK
 

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Another thing I'd like to add, after you do the final tightening of the cam gears (remember, the cam bolts get tightened LAST, very important), the act of torqueing them down can throw if off ever so slightly. If you want it to be super perfect exact, you can turn the engine over by hand a few times, then find TDC again and fine tune the timing using the adjustable gears themselves. Unless you are super good there is almost always a little off. Your 0,0 point won't be on the 0,0 mark but you will just have to make a note of where it is. Works very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
nazthug that answers quite a few questions that I had because as soon as I took the bar out the exhaust cam would aways rotate counter clockwise just a bit. I searched all over the place last night looking for this info. Thanks for the help I'll see if I can't get this fixed tonight after work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FriendlyFocus Thanks for the tip, I have been cranking the engine over by hand 3 or 4 times to test things. Each time the marks on the gears that were lining up correctly would be out by one tooth and it always seemed to be the exhaust cam that was changing.

I don't think I'll make it to the show unless they give me a Saturday move-in so I'll have a nice long weekend to get this fixed.

Thanks
 

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Your tensioner is self adjusting... It should move when you rev the engine. Make sure you didn't over torque the bolt on the tensioner. I believe the torque is very low... around 25-40 in-lbs.

Also, make sure you verify that all other connections were made. Check your plugs wires and plugs to make sure you didn't accidentally pull any out.
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Euro Ford Fan:
nazthug that answers quite a few questions that I had because as soon as I took the bar out the exhaust cam would aways rotate counter clockwise just a bit. I searched all over the place last night looking for this info. Thanks for the help I'll see if I can't get this fixed tonight after work.
<hr></blockquote>

yup, thats the almighty trick, once you do about 20 cam gear installs (NO JOKE) you find ways of doing it better


Just make sure the screw driver is as far up as possible, without coming down, make sure your UDP mark is pointing straight down, you can put something on the floor to line it up with to make sure its straight. When you get this, TAKE THE BELT OF, because your engine is now set, and youre gonna mess it up if you try to turn the cams with the belt to fit the tool to line it up, take the belt off, line the cams up to fit the tool, slide the tool in. Double check your engine again that its still at TDC. Now if both are now done, tool is in and engine is at TDC, the engine is ready to go. YOU HAVE TO HAVE BOTH THOSE THINGS. They are now seperate from each other, you can take the engine and move it around, and as long as you put it back to TDC, youre all set.

Put the gears on, dont tighten, put the belt on, making sure its still tdc, tighten the belt, then tighten the gears, and finally remove the tool. Start it up, it HAS to be set


Also, when your not tightening the cam gears like i said, and then doing the belt, youre not moving the engine out of tdc.

If you tried this, im sure when you go to put the belt on, it doesnt exactly fit the teeth, so you have to jurk the belt a bi to line up, well, you just moved your engine out of TDC, you know? So by not tightening the cam gears, you can turn the cam gears to FIT the engine instead of the engine to fit the gears.

After you do this, triple check that your engine is still at TDC, if its off a bit, you can turn it, because the cam gears are still lose. ONCE you get all that settled, the ccam gears are ready to be tightened, about 90ft/lb

[ 08-31-2002: Message edited by: nazthug ]</p>
 

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one last thing, if its still not idling right, check your plugs and wires, IM NOT KIDDING, always check those,i almost paid out of my ass last time to the dealer if i didnt check those first.

YOu may have accidentaly sliced a bit of 1 of the plug wires( i did this before, and the wire was kinda exposed and the car idled like ****) check that all your plugs are plugged in securely, double check the sparkplugs too.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well all of my trouble was caused by a bad sparkplug.

Thanks so much for all your help guys, Focaljet is the best!!


I'll make sure to pimp the jet at my shoot for Performance Ford magazine on Tuesday!

Thanks
 

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Three weeks after cam gear install, the cam belt is at the edge of cam gear and grinding at the housing. Did I ruin the belt tensioner or is it out of adjustment? Belt seems loose even after several atempts to adjust the tensioner. Tensioner seems to move in & out too easy. Anyone have a good picture or instruct for this problem?
Cam belt is getting chewed up. Please help.
 
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