It's been a few years in the making but I'm getting somewhere. The car started out as a bare bones zx3 with a auto tragic and after blowing two of those up I picked up a Svt swap for fairly cheap.
The run down:
Cat cams 2291017 with Pac springs and retainers
Je pistons
Cosworth rods
All arp hardware
Clevite h series rod and main bearings
Cfm billet oil pump
80# injectors
Walbro 400lph pump
Vct delete with adjustable cam gears and a full port and polish
Cometic .066 head gasket
Tru bendz 3" exhaust
Lakewood traction bars
275's on the front for the strip
Rudels old getrag with a torsen
Still need:
Turbo (gtx3076 with tial housing)
Manifolds
Catch can
Other misc stuff I'm sure.
My brother from another mother! I'm running the same short block, but you've got a better head than me! Are you running the JE turbo pistons? I couldn't see the piston tops well enough to see if they're dished. How far down the bore did your pistons end up? I'm using the Cosworth WRC rods and the JE turbo pistons (made without the dish), and they were about .062" down the bore at TDC on mine, I had to deck the block to get the compression back up, but I'm using the regular zetec head with the larger chambers.
I saw you have the oil pressure sender on a tee off the back of your block. My experience is that there is enough vibration with that big sender can hanging off in space like that to break the nipple off in the block. Better to put a braided hose on there and mount the senders away from the vibration, that way you could tap your turbo oil supply from there too if you don't already have another source plumbed. If you do go remote, put a hose clamp on the sender and run a ground wire to it. My oil pressure gauge stopped working after I remote mounted the senders until I did that, apparently it wasn't getting a good enough ground through the teflon tape and hose to complete the circuit.
Looking forward to the rest of your build! I'm running a GT28RS for now, would love to go with the GTX3076!
I am indeed running the je turbo pistons and they are dished. They didn't set down the bore at all thanks to custom made offset bushings for the wrist pins. They actually sit .002 above the deck and that could just be the way they rock. My oil pressure sender was like that before and I didn't have any problems. Maybe I got lucky. I'm anxious to finish it. I have high hopes
Oh, you put new bushings in the rods to get them down to 20mm, and biased them towards the top? Never thought of that! JE told me their pistons had plenty of meat to be taken out to a 22mm wrist pin, so I had them do that. Unfortunately, that put the pistons so low the compression was going to be 8.5:1, even with the piston dish deleted!
Are the fittings you're using on the oil sender black pipe? If so you might be fine, I made the mistake of using brass, caught it just before it broke off on its own.
I get the anxiety, I too have been collecting parts literally for years too. Can't wait to see how yours turns out!
This was a cheap option since I picked the pistons up second hand and already had them. The material it's made out of is what I believe it was ams makes their evo bushings out of and I think it cost me $35 for material and the cost was free. This motor should be around 9.4-9.6:1
Yes, it made getting the cam tensioner in the correct zone a bitch. I ended up using a couple different size idlers from Contour zetecs to get it in the right spot, the 47mm lower idler used on the 2000 Contour (T42034) and the 70mm upper idler used on the 1998 Contour (T42035.)
Karl from Massive says the use of the bottom idler didn't work for him with a SVT head, resulted in bending valves when they turned the motor over backwards for some reason. I did not have that issue with the zetec head. Massive now makes larger diameter idler pulleys for anyone who needs to deck the block or head significantly.
I was gonna ask of you knew about those, I'm not quite impressed with how tight I was able to get my timing belt in the correct zone. I may have to go with one of those they offer
The head was cut for squareness and the head went to top speed and God only knows what was done there or how much was taken of. I sent it out again after getting it back from them to say the least
Yea the goals is what made me go return style. Fernando is gonna tune it using a xcal 3. It should be more than I need with that turbo and still spool decent.
Things have changed a little bit. I sold the dual fuel pump setup and have since gotten an ATL well cell and a magnafuel 4303 pump. And a treadstone 1000hp intercooler. Not much progress has been made though since I've moved.
Still need charge pipes made, fuel gauge installed, bung for wideband and front o2 sensor welded in, need a new crash bar for the new intercooler, and to build the exhaust. Gotta plumb the fuel pump and install relays for fuel pump. And build a box for the fuel cell to contain in from the battery and an explosion should one ever occur
Mk1 Focus RS 500bhp+ Racecar Build
Hey all hows things , first post so be kind!
My names Jack , some will know me , others wont , some might know my car also
Long story short , My Car = My Life , worked my ass off at 17 > 18(going on 19) to get it , nothing other than my reg plate which was...
In an effort to clean up this forum, and not have an inordinate amount of stickies, i think one, central post that references useful posts that reference useful posts would work.
The old stickies are going to be linked through this post.
Before You Start
Want to Boost? Read this...
Just figured out what my password was so i thought i'd make a post. Just finished up installing my NERP/JFAB intake manifold.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sgZFPgqAGFm4s1s28
I bought these oil pump gears from the UK. Now poeple are telling me even the billet gears shatter. First I've ever heard of this. I'm building a 450+hp blacktop..
after puting a powerworks kit on my svt and using the "search"
alot and some emails and some phone calls , i put together a little list of
service/replacement parts. i have had this on FF for a while but have added some info
to it...
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