Well, that is the throw out bearing rattling as far as the other stuff I don't know about but we have done 4 clutchs and it is alot easier to pull the motor than the transmission but we always go out the top just a few ideas for you I would take it back and have them fix it until they get it right some of them rattle and some don't good luck but get them to fix it. By the way it's not hurting anything its just annoying pulling though the drive though and having that thing rattling it sounds like a piece of junk.
Clutch Installation and Problems
About two months ago I brought the car into the dealer to have a "clutch noise" addressed. The noise existed when the car was idling and your foot was off the pedal. If you pressed in the pedal the noise went away.
According to the dealer Ford Motor Company recommended that the dealer replace the release bearing, clutch cover (pressure plate) and the clutch disk. There was no mention of a pilot bearing being serviced, if there is one. This was performed under warranty. After three weeks, the noise came back.
What troubles me is that I noticed the mechanic had placed a 'white mark' on each strut tower (the body) and a 'white mark' on each strut bearing plate. Making a judgment based on these 'white marks' I assume that the dealer/mechanic lowered the entire front sub-assembly (engine, transmission, drive train, suspension, and sub-frame) out of the car as one unit as opposed to removing just the transmission.
I also checked the transmission oil level and I had to add a 1/2 quart of (the $15.00 a quart of Ford) transmission oil.
In addition to the 'clutch noise' being back, shifting into second gear is a problem where it binds and sometimes grinds into gear.
Also, the suspension also makes a noise when both front wheels, at the same time, make contact with a driveway lip or a larger crack in the road, generally at speeds up to 10 mph. The suspension makes a clunk as if the suspension is loose/bad. I have also noticed that the front dives very easily and that the struts on occasion make a cavitating noise as if there is air or bad valving inside the strut/damper.
Topping this off, and maybe it is related, the shifter lever inside the car is very sloppy. I checked to see if the shifter base is loose or broken and it does not appear to be. Just the shifter has a lot of play in it without moving the cables.
I am knowledgable in cars, but I need to know if there is any more information available as to arm myself when I go back to the dealer. I was told by one service writer that "clutches do not make noise". Technically, I would agree, and to be specific, the release bearing could, but why replace everything?
What other technical information could I need and how much more specific should I be with my language used in addressing my car's problems?
I am also in the position that I cannot afford to sell this car and buy another one; I have to keep this one for several years.
My other choice, after I try again with the dealer is to approach DMV and the Dept. of Consumer Protection. The DMV in Connecticut is strong and generally sides with the consumer.
I would like to know if you have had or are having some of the same problems I am having and, if you had them fixed, what was the remedy; and any technical positions regarding these problems.
Again, I cannot afford another car for a while and on this one I have the extended warranty to 6-years. I can afford to do some upgrading if I have to to keep the car going.
According to the dealer Ford Motor Company recommended that the dealer replace the release bearing, clutch cover (pressure plate) and the clutch disk. There was no mention of a pilot bearing being serviced, if there is one. This was performed under warranty. After three weeks, the noise came back.
What troubles me is that I noticed the mechanic had placed a 'white mark' on each strut tower (the body) and a 'white mark' on each strut bearing plate. Making a judgment based on these 'white marks' I assume that the dealer/mechanic lowered the entire front sub-assembly (engine, transmission, drive train, suspension, and sub-frame) out of the car as one unit as opposed to removing just the transmission.
I also checked the transmission oil level and I had to add a 1/2 quart of (the $15.00 a quart of Ford) transmission oil.
In addition to the 'clutch noise' being back, shifting into second gear is a problem where it binds and sometimes grinds into gear.
Also, the suspension also makes a noise when both front wheels, at the same time, make contact with a driveway lip or a larger crack in the road, generally at speeds up to 10 mph. The suspension makes a clunk as if the suspension is loose/bad. I have also noticed that the front dives very easily and that the struts on occasion make a cavitating noise as if there is air or bad valving inside the strut/damper.
Topping this off, and maybe it is related, the shifter lever inside the car is very sloppy. I checked to see if the shifter base is loose or broken and it does not appear to be. Just the shifter has a lot of play in it without moving the cables.
I am knowledgable in cars, but I need to know if there is any more information available as to arm myself when I go back to the dealer. I was told by one service writer that "clutches do not make noise". Technically, I would agree, and to be specific, the release bearing could, but why replace everything?
What other technical information could I need and how much more specific should I be with my language used in addressing my car's problems?
I am also in the position that I cannot afford to sell this car and buy another one; I have to keep this one for several years.
My other choice, after I try again with the dealer is to approach DMV and the Dept. of Consumer Protection. The DMV in Connecticut is strong and generally sides with the consumer.
I would like to know if you have had or are having some of the same problems I am having and, if you had them fixed, what was the remedy; and any technical positions regarding these problems.
Again, I cannot afford another car for a while and on this one I have the extended warranty to 6-years. I can afford to do some upgrading if I have to to keep the car going.
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