Cold Start issues w/ YRF0

613 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by BRZX3R, Oct 28, 2003

G

Discussion Starter · Oct 26, 2003

Is anyone experiencing issues with cold start after the YRFO update. It seems to be worse now. The engin idles high and extremely rough as if there is a misfire(but no indication of a misfire) and when i start driving and shift to neutral to stop the Revs rise to 2000rpm. Now the engine runs GREAT when warm, way better than with RLA6 but this cold issue is driving me nuts.

Kurt

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focusben

· #2 · Oct 26, 2003

Nope, no issues at all. They idle used to be higher with the older programs, this one runs perfect in all aspects!

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SilverOH3SVT

· #3 · Oct 26, 2003

Is anyone experiencing issues with cold start after the YRFO update. It seems to be worse now. The engin idles high and extremely rough as if there is a misfire(but no indication of a misfire) and when i start driving and shift to neutral to stop the Revs rise to 2000rpm. Now the engine runs GREAT when warm, way better than with RLA6 but this cold issue is driving me nuts.

Kurt

The engine is suppposed to idle high, it's gotta warm up the cats! Just warm up your car before you drive it cold, and you'll also save more fuel, the SVTF runs really rich when it's cold.

svtpwr02

· #4 · Oct 27, 2003

OH yes, we now have a worse cold start problem than ever after YRFO, sometimes it doesn't start and you have to try again. It idles high, rough, and sometimes stalls when you drive away. It didn't do this badly before YRFO. I've heard there's a newer PCM flash out now.

SilverOH - it idles at 3000 rpm. THAT's a bit high, wouldn't you say?

Ataru

· #5 · Oct 27, 2003

This was the first evening that was cold and I needed to start my car. It sounded like it almost wouldn't start at all! After a couple of seconds of cranking it finally turned over and reved up to 2500rpms. I didn't have time to let the car warm up so I took off after a couple of seconds. After backing up and then putting it back in neutral to go to first, the revs shot back up to 2500 very irratically.

Very strange. As soon as I hear of a new TSB for this, I will be taking it in. I am not going to waste my time by taking it in when there is nothing that they can do to help it.....

CCC

· #6 · Oct 27, 2003

Maybe your dealer shafted you? I haven't had any problems...my car is a new monster with YRF0...

CCC

G

Discussion Starter · #7 · Oct 27, 2003

Thank god im not the only one experiencing this. Is there a chance we got RLA6 instead of YRF0?? Even though i thought my 2003 came with RLA6, maybe it had RLA2. Um could this issue maybe have something to do with the intake clamp TSB?

SVT03

· #8 · Oct 27, 2003

Well I live in Michigan, not that it has been that cold yet. But I am Finding the same thing out. Hard to start, revs high when cold. Last night I used the block heater, and it seemed to help. It took alot less time for it to warm also. I want to take it back in, but with my wires, and coil I am thinking they are going to blame it on them?

Ataru

· #9 · Oct 27, 2003

Thank god im not the only one experiencing this. Is there a chance we got RLA6 instead of YRF0?? Even though i thought my 2003 came with RLA6, maybe it had RLA2. Um could this issue maybe have something to do with the intake clamp TSB?

My car had RLA6 when I bought it. Once I had YRF0 done I could tell a difference in the way it was driving. Specifically, I could feel the DSI switch at 5000rpm instead of 6000. So I know it is YRF0.

Maybe the ECU needs to adjust to the cold weather? This was the FIRST time that I had to start the car on a fairly cold evening (40-50 degrees) after being in 70-90 degree weather since I bought it in August.

Doesn't the ECU constantly adjust to the way the car is driven?

G

Discussion Starter · #10 · Oct 27, 2003

The cold starts do seem to be getting better. But still kind of annoying. Im just picky. Its my new car, my baby, i jsut want everything to be perfect!

alexinRO

· #11 · Oct 27, 2003

I've noticed that mine is a bit harder to start initially, but then runs better when cold. I had some knowlegeable advice to prime the fuel pump before starting, in other words turn the key to ignition for a few seconds before cranking. I haven't tried it yet, but maybe that will help some of these problems.

BRZX3R

· #12 · Oct 28, 2003

My dad is having the same problem with his 2003 SVT with the reflashed pcm. The car sits in the garage all night, and then has trouble starting in the morning. After it does it high rev/popping spasm, the car is fine for the rest of the day. He works at the local ford dealer, and they are trying to find a solution too.

G

Discussion Starter · #13 · Oct 28, 2003

My dad is having the same problem with his 2003 SVT with the reflashed pcm. The car sits in the garage all night, and then has trouble starting in the morning. After it does it high rev/popping spasm, the car is fine for the rest of the day. He works at the local ford dealer, and they are trying to find a solution too.

When they figuire out the issue post the solution. I cant afford to leave my car at the dealor for a while since im away at school and all.

smitty

· #14 · Oct 28, 2003

2

Yes, I've noticed that on a few occasions, it has taken a couple of extra cranks to start when cold. I always cycle the fuel pump before turning over the starter. This is just habit, as I have been doing the same thing for my mustangs for years.

What I have noticed is that if you start the car and immediatly begin driving away, then it acts in similar fashion to before the flash. ie: it acts as if the timing is retarded(which it probably is). But, within 30 seconds or so of starting the car, this issue is gone and the idle is around 1700 rpm. This, I feel is appropriate because this is a high strung 4 cylinder that does it's best work above 4k rpm. Regardless, if I drive off at this point, the engine smooths out and warms up quickly. About 1 minute down the road (about 1.5 minutes after starting for those keeping track) the engine is running as it's normal tracktable self, so much so that I have to be careful to keep the revs below 3k until the oil temp needle starts to climb. (about 1 minute later)

Granted, I live in Seattle, which has fairly temperate weather. Usually at this time of year, the temperatures are not going below 40 degrees at night, and the car is in the garage. I have the winter package, so I'll have to try the block heater just out of curiosity, but I can't imagine not having 30 seconds to let my car warm up on any given day. If you don't have 30 seconds to spare, then I'll see you in a few years when you come in for your by-pass surgery, or stroke, or ulcer, or etc.

The fact that I may need to crank the starter a couple of extra times every now and then doesn't diminish the fix for me. I haven't really noticed that big a difference becuase it cranked a little long on occasion with the old program too. The improvements in drivability on all other fronts more than make up for the minor inconvinience of not being able to drive my car off as soon as I start it. I've probably owned as many carburated as fuel injected cars, so this is a non-issue for me. Things just need to come up to operating temperature to work their best. This is also true of other things in life.

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BRZX3R

· #15 · Oct 28, 2003

temps have been in the low 40's high 30's at night, and that is when the car seems to act up. I mentioned to my dad about letting the fuel pump prime before start, and he did not notice any difference. They are looking towards the IAC right now. I expect a call back from him shortly on if they found any codes with the WDS. There isn't a MIL on, but that doesn't mean there isn't a code. I will keep you guys posted on what they find.

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