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Discussion Starter #1
I posted this in GL forum too, but I think there are more Crower stage 2 owners out here.:

How did you set your cams back in? We followed the directions on focushacks and just laid them there so that the lobes weren't at full lift. The cam alignment tool couldn't be used since we did that.... Basically we had lobes (intake and exhaust) on #1 opposed to each other. my major worry is that they're not in right.

The only problem I had was with the rough idle, but it was really bad. Figured it was #4 plug not secured in. I also had to raise the idle a bit....

Basically my question is, does this sound typical of a stage 2 install? I'm assuming that we got it at TDC....
 

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my idle was ****ty too but then we found plug #4 wasnt in all the way.

But still my idle is jumpy 1000 down to 250 up to 1000 back and forth. Sometimes it'll die on me. I was able to run 15.1 in the 1/4 with it like this so.....

mine is definately fixed or repaired daily
 

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i had a problem with carizme's #4 plug wire not fitting right in so i lubed it and it worked fine after. basically i eased the cams back on the hydro lifters by tightened each of the journals gradually with the correct torque pattern. it was pretty straight forward as long you remember which way the lobes were facing . the only real problem i had was fitting the belt back on the cam gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Carizme:
my idle was ****ty too but then we found plug #4 wasnt in all the way.
<hr></blockquote>

Cool. I feel better. my plug wasn't in all the way either at first. I felt that problem before from plug swapping late at night, but this time I thought that it was a byproduct of the cam install.. I only figured it out when my CEL kept going off when I realized what was going on. Stopped at a gas station, re did my plugs and reset the computer.. all was good except idle
 

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the stage 2 cams have a hex on the non lobe area
use that to put a wrench to it
after you tighten the all the caps on it down
your engine is a non interference engine
even with stage 2 your valves won't hit
so don't worry about that
use the hex to re allign the cams to TDC
once TDC install belt back and cam gears

my idle is perfect
it stays within 720-840rpms
with urethane mounts i get a slight vibe but not that much
i love my power band.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually could you answer another question of mine? Does it matter that my Kent cam gears are not oriented identically? What I mean is that when one gear's degree notches are rotated to that they're to the top, should the other ones be also pointed to the top?

Cablesrv: Is this what you meant by rotating the cams to TDC?

[ 05-11-2002: Message edited by: Shiva Chaos ]</p>
 

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actually since the gears aren't notched to the cams themself it really doesn't matter
it's more a personal prefrence at that point
mine i like having them both face the same direction that way when i adjust them it's easier to read the degree markings

as long as the cam it self is aligned to the crank then the cam gears can point in any direction they want.
 

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Had mine installed by Zx3 tuning and no issues what so ever idles like a dream at 900 RPM...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cablsrv:

So is this what you mean by resetting to TDC?:

<ul type="square">[*]Expose Cams[*]crank engine to TDC[*]remove cam belt[*]Turn the cams using the hex and align them using the cam alignment tool[*]Put belt back on[*]slap valve cover back on...etc[/list]

I'm really wondering how you and RiTz got a good idle when mine's all funky.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Carizme:
Hey Shiva, does your car stall out if you leave it idling for a couple of minutes?<hr></blockquote>

Sure feels like it. Actually it does when the engine is cold. when it's warmed up all the way, it still feels like stalling, but it doesn't

I accidentally locked my keys in my car last night while it was running and spent ten minutes looking for the spare key. It didn't stall out.

BUT. I was wondering about Cablesrv's and ritzbitz's idle and why they're good. When I installed, I helped take the engine apart, but two other guys finished the install. I went to Eastern Market and it was finished when I got back.

I want to try that thing that cablesrv recommended (If I got that list right) later.
 

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We did not even use the proper cam alignment tool when we installed. It was just a piece of flat bar. heh
 

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Discussion Starter #14
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RiTzBiTz:
We did not even use the proper cam alignment tool when we installed. It was just a piece of flat bar. heh<hr></blockquote>


I know
Either way i think I need to reset to tdc. should I loosen the bearing caps when using that hex?

[ 05-13-2002: Message edited by: Shiva Chaos ]</p>
 

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good info


I plan to do this install, so any info is appreciated
 

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Hey shiva thats about it
this is easy

take valve cover off
pull spark plugs
turn crank till it's at TDC (suggest getting TDC tool http://www.focusperformance.com/tpls/Detail.tpl?command=sea rch&db=foccat.db&eqskudata=303-574&cart=3104171183200428 )
use that to get TDC
once you have tdc then untighten cam gear bolts
release cam belt tension
take belt off cam gears
use hex on cams to realign with cam align tool ( http://www.focusperformance.com/tpls/Detail.tpl?command=sea rch&db=foccat.db&eqskudata=ZET7305&cart=3104171183200428 ) <--- should have come with your cam gears if you have aftermarket ones at least
REMEMBER!! EVEN THE SLIGHTEST BIT OFF CAN CAUSE ROUGH IDLE!!!!
so when aligning cams with that tool make sure they are 100% even
once even put belt back on
release tension to tighten belt
retighten cam gear bolts once belt is tight
remove cam locking tool
replace spark plugs
replace valve cover
start car
should be fine now
then adjust cam gears as you see fit!!!!

Later
Nick

[ 05-13-2002: Message edited by: CableSrv ]</p>
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This sucks since it doesn't automatically move the thread up unless you make anew post. oh well.

Was the reason you loosened the cam gear bolts just to help get the belt off?

Also, Carizme and I have an issue using the cam alignment tool, our Stage 2 cams are sitting too low to use the tool.... I wonder if Crower would know anything about this...

[ 05-15-2002: Message edited by: Shiva Chaos ]</p>
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Naz Posted this earlier this month.. Does this also mean that the crower cams are asymmetrical as well? So technically if they were, I would just turn the cam until it fit?

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>once you get TDC, with the pencil all the way up, just turn the cams around until that tool fits inbetween both of the cams at the tips. The cams at the ends have slots, but these slots are off center, so there is only one way you can make them fit, then you have to turn them 360*, because only everyother turn do they come up where the tool will fit, dig it? ONce you get them both lined up, make the tool fit through both of them. This will give you complete and total TDC, then just install the cam gears and belt, tighten everything back up and finish the belt tensioner and only then can you remove the tool. Get it? <hr></blockquote>
 
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