Re: Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor

Any idea?

 

Re: Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor

But I have a Zetec....I already buy the sensor....Its located on the back of the block....I dont see how to remove it...

 

Since this was a Zetec question, I separated these posts from the Duratec thread, and moved it to Zetec Tuning.

 

i think with that sensor all you have to do is remove the alternator and screw it out. its not a wet sensor, it reads metal temp. the harness is connected to the upper timing cover.

 

exactly ^^^^

 

The only problem is that removing the alt will make you wonder why it has to be like that...

 

Ahhhh....thats What I dont want to do...remove the alt...Its a paint remove it...

 

I check and see it...its behind the alt...I need to remove it....dam!

 

Yeah...PITA to remove the alternator. If you do need to do it, here's my suggestion list...

If you are stupid like me:
1) Disconnect and remove the dogbone from the engine
2) Prep the alternator for removal
3) Use a floor jack on the rear end of the transaxle housing and lift from as far back as you can. This should pivot the assembly forward, providing enough space for the alternator to get clear of the intake manifold, the AC lines, and the firewall.

If you are smart like one of my friends was:
1) Perform the first two steps
2) Have a couple of friends push the car while the engine is in a forward gear. This will do much the same thing without the stress of lifting on your engine/transaxle with a floor jack.

Sounds like you have a fun job ahead of you.

 

I removed my alternator yesterday just to find that there isn't a sensor behind it. Is the SVT sensor located in a different spot?

 

Just in case anyone searches for this later on, the SVT sensor is located in the thermostat housing. I don't believe it's a CHT sensor either. Maybe ECT. Not sure.

 

Yah the SVT sensor goes into the thermo housing. its a little short sensor. I've got one somewhere that I bought once.

 

Yeah...PITA to remove the alternator. If you do need to do it, here's my suggestion list...

If you are stupid like me:
1) Disconnect and remove the dogbone from the engine
2) Prep the alternator for removal
3) Use a floor jack on the rear end of the transaxle housing and lift from as far back as you can. This should pivot the assembly forward, providing enough space for the alternator to get clear of the intake manifold, the AC lines, and the firewall.

If you are smart like one of my friends was:
1) Perform the first two steps
2) Have a couple of friends push the car while the engine is in a forward gear. This will do much the same thing without the stress of lifting on your engine/transaxle with a floor jack.

Sounds like you have a fun job ahead of you.

I'm Cornfused...
Wouldn't the Intake, etc Rotate with the engine the exact same amount as the alternator?
A Friend of mine replaced my alternator one day while I was working on something else.
He never disconnected the dogbone (Tranny Mount) and he has BIG hands.
I think you're probably wasting time with this step.
I have an Interest in this thread because I MAY have a problem with either the wiring near the alternator or the CHT sensor.
The more info, the merrier, but I don't see how rotating the engine is going to do anything but maybe bring it away from the firewall by an inch or so.
:dunno:

 

The issue is the clearance between the side and the alternator in my experience.

I disconnect both the rear tranny mount and the passenger side mount and jack the hell outta the engine to get that bad boy to come out.

 

I disconnect both the rear tranny mount and the passenger side mount and jack the hell outta the engine to get that bad boy to come out.

Have you ever had any problems with the passenger side half-shaft components after that? I ask, because it seems like you could do some damage if you jack it too far. How do you know where to quit?

 

I didn't even find it necessary to remove the alternator to access where the CHT would have been on a normal Zetec. I removed everything surrounding the alternator, but didn't have the EGR to worry about. I don't know if that's removable or not. I had plenty of space to set the alternator up near the firewall and check for the sensor.

 

The issue is the clearance between the side and the alternator in my experience.

I disconnect both the rear tranny mount and the passenger side mount and jack the hell outta the engine to get that bad boy to come out.

Why not take the alternator out thru the top? I have only had experience with replacing the alternator on two cars and both times it was taken out thru the top.

When I needed a new one the dealership said they couldn't do it without removing the PWSC. I aksed if they couldn't take it out thru the top. They said they would try but the manual said it had to go out the bottom.

They did take it out thru the top and afterwards the mechanic told me it was easier that way. He had to move the PS reservoir out of the way and take the bolts out of the passenger side motor mount to tilt the motor to get the bolt out.

The second one was when Jon(Bad Idea)'s alternator on his SVT went out at the Focus Challenge at Summit Point last year. Bri said he would take the old one out while I took Jon to town to get a new one. By the time we got back (about 30 min.) he had the old one out thru the top. And we put the new one back in from the top.

 

Hal,

I've always pulled my alts from the top.

:dunno:

- Drew

 

My manual said to use Ford service tool Shrink-Ray. So I said screw it and traded for an SRT-4. Now I make all the kids cry.

 

Sure, in a straight line. Anything with allot of curves, nope!

 

Has anyone put the svt style thermostat housing on a zx3 (engine code 3)?
It looks like it would be easier to just put on new thermostat, sensor and housing.
Extend the leads from the harness and abandon the old one in the back of the head, under the alternator.
It has to be possible but.... will the sensor and temp guage interact the same?

Did I just volunteer to be a guinea pig?

 

You would likely need a tune as I'm sure wet vs. dry would be different to the ECU in either car.