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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've decided to take pics and make easy guides as I upgrade and make changes to my car. The pics were taken with my camera phone so they aren't as sharp as can be. This is the first time changing my spark plugs so if anyone has additional advise please comment and I'll adjust the original post as needed.

Engine: Duratec 2.0L
Difficulty: Easy
Time: < 20 min
Plugs Used: Copper Autolite 104's with .055 gap
Tools: Socket Wrench, 5/8 deep socket (16mm), 5/16 socket (8mm), 3 to 4 inch socket extension, needle nose pliers (used to pull out spark plugs)




Step 1: Clean off engine area to free it from any loose dirt that could fall into the plug holes (I realized I should have done this after I saw some leaves in the way >.>).

Step 2: Using the 5/16 socket remove the screws holding the spark plug boot in place. Also remove the wires that are connected to the boot.


Step 3: Remove the boot by making a twisting motion. Do not rock the boot side to side.


Step 4: Using the 5/8 deep socket and extension loosen the spark plug. Be sure to turn counter-clockwise and do your best to keep the socket steady. At first, use gentle pressure when unscrewing to ensure you don't crack or break the plug (I hear this is bad :thumbdown).


Step 5: Use the needle nose pliers to grab hold of the spark plug and remove from the hole.

Step 6: Use Anti-Seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the boot so you secure the spark plug nicely. Make a scraping motion across the threads as you gently squeeze the Anti-Seize on the threads.


With Anti-Seize applied:


Finally: Place the spark plug back in the hole and tighten using the 5/8 deep socket. Be sure the plug is nice and snug but don't over tighten. Remember, it's not a bolt or a nut, so you don't want to use too much force and risk cracking or breaking the spark plug. Replace the boot and twist it on for a secure fit. Reconnect the wires and screw it back down.

You're Done! :thumbup:
 

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Thanks for taking the time to do a write up. But i use a 8mm socket to remove the mounting bolts for the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for taking the time to do a write up. But i use a 8mm socket to remove the mounting bolts for the coil.
Thanks. I've added the millimeter equivalent (or closest one).
 

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you dont need to take the plug off the COP.

8mm is correct
 

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eh not needed but doesnt hurt...
 

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Right on thanks..
I changed my plugs for the first time on my 2009.. Put in Autolite 104's. There was actually a lot of grease in the boot still so I didn't grease it that time. But I plan to do it on the next change.
 

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I good spark plug socket has a rubber insert to grab the spark plug. It also is the right depth and will help keep you from breaking the ceramic.
 

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How often are typical change intervals for you boys?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How often are typical change intervals for you boys?
With the copper autolites I read that a lot of people change them out every 10k miles. The iridiums are supposed to last 100k but aren't as good as a conductor as copper.
 

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Kristina's Culvert
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I change my 104's every oil change. They're too cheap not to. I also have a Vato Zone brand plug socket with a rubber insert that has a magnetic cylinder around it so it'll grab the plug somehow no matter what you do. Also, I always get pillow packs of dielectric grease and anti-seize and I use both every single time.
 

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Inheritly Sinister
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Buy the dielectric grease in the tube. You'll save tons of money over those pillow packs. If you did the 10k copper changes, over 100k, you are looking at $10 in grease, versus a 2.99 tube. Even more savings if you have more than 1 car.
 

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I think it's also worth mentioning to tighten at least the first few turns of the spark plug by hand. I usually hand tighten with just the spark plug socket and extension until I feel the plug bottom out, then use the ratchet to snug them down. This helps me feel if the threads have any dirt or debris on them and also prevents cross threading.
 
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