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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Well the trans harness is pretty straightforward, and the main harness doesn't really have any tricks, it just requires a lot of patience. For the main harness you need to remove the center console, most of the dash panels, the glove box, everything around the steering wheel, and be prepared to be in uncomfortable positions a lot. Like I said, it's plug and play, but it's difficult to snake the harness everywhere it needs to go. I would suggest taking everything in the dash apart and studying it first. You will see what I'm talking about.
So basically your putting the new main wiring harness into the harness to the new fuse block...the starting mechanism the new clutch stuff the shifter stuff in the glove box im guessing thats where the sync stuff....I kind of figured out where it would need to go im guessing and of course the engine management stuff where does the harness come into the firewall at? The good news is when i do all this the motor will be swapped as well so the transmission and everything will be out it will be easier to work with....the dash stuff I've pulled apart before for aftermarket speakers...does it need to go to all the way to the fuel pump to?

As far as the main wiring harness I have to find one that would go into a car that has all my options in it...power windows locks sync etc etc...makes sense
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Doubt it. On the Duratecs some of the trouble codes are not defined. I already have to deal with that. So you are left with disabling the check engine light in that case. Not the greatest idea.
Don't do that I know a guy who did that blew his motor up he was too cheap to get whatever it was fixed so he popped the bulb out of his altima code was telling him that he was running lean eventually something went wrong and we guess the motor went way lean and he floored it trying to enter a busy freeway motor went boom and someone ran right into him. Not worth it....pay to play and do it right....

I might have you do some remote tuning too randy when this is all said and done so we can get this silver 4 door down the track and grudge some of these honda boys. I live in the suburbs about 20 minutes outside of DC as soon as I leave the suburbs and head toward the city hondas are everywhere when you go to the local track (capitol raceway) nothing but Honda's, Mitsubishi's, Lexus's, the occasional Mazda, and one Focus. So I got a large grudge field on a friday night at the track to play with.

Btw thanks alot for finding this guy for me to talk to now I can do this manual swap once I get all the pieces together and I know your a beast with all the stick shift cars out here and at your shop. With an automatic man I would have been talking to you and Lentech and worrying about that thing failing having to send it off pay $500 more to fix it cause of some crap after spending $6000 now I can sleep at night knowing the maintenance is easier all I got to worry about is a clutch wearing out I can live with that. A clutch doesnt require a full transmission send out all that shipping and crap. Thanks man your the best. And thanks also chunkysalmonman8 your a beast for doing this stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Is the ignition switch and position switch on the clutch the same thing cause im ordering parts and I found the pedal ignition switch from motorcraft on rockauto.com (when I clicked on the position switch catalog thats what came up)

oh and you forgot clutch cable (got it)...all im missing is the transmission, shifter, cables, pedal assemblies and of course the wiring harnesses....to the junk yard!!! ....then I'll get a torsen t2 diff, clutch and flywheel kit from clutch masters multi plate with the pressure plate and keep it moving....
 

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So basically your putting the new main wiring harness into the harness to the new fuse block...the starting mechanism the new clutch stuff the shifter stuff in the glove box im guessing thats where the sync stuff....I kind of figured out where it would need to go im guessing and of course the engine management stuff where does the harness come into the firewall at? The good news is when i do all this the motor will be swapped as well so the transmission and everything will be out it will be easier to work with....the dash stuff I've pulled apart before for aftermarket speakers...does it need to go to all the way to the fuel pump to?

As far as the main wiring harness I have to find one that would go into a car that has all my options in it...power windows locks sync etc etc...makes sense
The harness doesn't go in or out of the firewall/bulkhead at all. It also doesn't need to go back to the fuel pump. The main harness only stays up front under the dash, and the ends of each side connect to jumpers that are already routed to other parts of the car.
 

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Is the ignition switch and position switch on the clutch the same thing cause im ordering parts and I found the pedal ignition switch from motorcraft on rockauto.com (when I clicked on the position switch catalog thats what came up)

oh and you forgot clutch cable (got it)...all im missing is the transmission, shifter, cables, pedal assemblies and of course the wiring harnesses....to the junk yard!!! ....then I'll get a torsen t2 diff, clutch and flywheel kit from clutch masters multi plate with the pressure plate and keep it moving....
As far as the switches go, no, there are two serperate switches. I can get part #'s in a bit. And idk what clutch cable you are talking about, these cars are hydraulic and the master to slave line on my list would be the same thing I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Oh ok pretty sweet then so the ecu plugs into the harness there under the hood....oh your talking about the main harness under the dash that plugs into basically the shifting mechanisms and clutch and brake mechanisms....and whatever other options you have

Clutch cable was listed on the autoparts website

I see how you got all this done for 2200 its not expensive at all even with $1300 worth of clutch/flywheel/pressure plate etc etc nice dude
 

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Oh ok pretty sweet then so the ecu plugs into the harness there under the hood....oh your talking about the main harness under the dash that plugs into basically the shifting mechanisms and clutch and brake mechanisms....and whatever other options you have

Clutch cable was listed on the autoparts website

I see how you got all this done for 2200 its not expensive at all even with $1300 worth of clutch/flywheel/pressure plate etc etc nice dude
Yes the ECU plugs into the engine harness, trans harness, and whatever goes to the fuse box. It is connected from there to the rest of the car.

Here are the two clutch pedal switches. I got both of these through Ford.
Clutch Pedal Ignition Lock Switch-11A152
Clutch Pedal Position Switch-75C534



Here is the brake fluid resivoir that goes to the clutch master cylinder, then those two lines run from the master cylinder to the slave in the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
oh ok not bad makes sense...its nice that its all plug and play from there makes it simple...well besides the whole huge mess or wire harness to mess with...
 

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Doubt it. On the Duratecs some of the trouble codes are not defined. I already have to deal with that. So you are left with disabling the check engine light in that case. Not the greatest idea.
Oh alright, was just wondering.

Don't do that I know a guy who did that blew his motor up he was too cheap to get whatever it was fixed so he popped the bulb out of his altima code was telling him that he was running lean eventually something went wrong and we guess the motor went way lean and he floored it trying to enter a busy freeway motor went boom and someone ran right into him. Not worth it....pay to play and do it right....
I never popped the CEL bulb out, I just had my tuner physically turn off all ATX functions (solenoids, temp sensors, OSS, TSS, etc) which makes the light go out for those things. Similiar to any tuner disabling the KS, rear 02, EGR, EVAP, etc. Now if I had another issue like a slow O2 response, the CEL will still come on for that issue. Now some ECU codes as far as I understand, this cant be done and I was just wondering if the Duratecs fell under the cant be done catergory.

Also if you go with a Torsen, call Steve at Tousley. He by far had the best price on the diff at $533.50. Here's part numbers and everything you need to install a Torsen:

Torsen T2 diff - M-4204-F20
2 new diff bearings - F7RZ-4221-AC
2 new axle seals - F5RZ-1S177-AA
VSS gear (goes on diff before bearing) - YS4Z-17285-AA

I was in the same boat as you wanting to build up a Lentech but in the end I was able to do the MTX swap for a 5th the price of building up the auto. All said and done I had about $1100 into the whole thing including diff and clutch assembly and wouldn't change a thing. Car overall handles way better, dropped .6 tenths in the 1/4, and imo adds driveability. Its nice using your own brain to pick gears instead of waiting on the ECU to make up its mind or leave you bogging when it should've down shifted a gear...

EDIT: Nevermind, the diff from Tousley is now $638, seems like all the vendors went up $100 on the thing!
 

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Oh alright, was just wondering.



I never popped the CEL bulb out, I just had my tuner physically turn off all ATX functions (solenoids, temp sensors, OSS, TSS, etc) which makes the light go out for those things. Similiar to any tuner disabling the KS, rear 02, EGR, EVAP, etc. Now if I had another issue like a slow O2 response, the CEL will still come on for that issue. Now some ECU codes as far as I understand, this cant be done and I was just wondering if the Duratecs fell under the cant be done catergory.

Also if you go with a Torsen, call Steve at Tousley. He by far had the best price on the diff at $533.50. Here's part numbers and everything you need to install a Torsen:

Torsen T2 diff - M-4204-F20
2 new diff bearings - F7RZ-4221-AC
2 new axle seals - F5RZ-1S177-AA
VSS gear (goes on diff before bearing) - YS4Z-17285-AA

I was in the same boat as you wanting to build up a Lentech but in the end I was able to do the MTX swap for a 5th the price of building up the auto. All said and done I had about $1100 into the whole thing including diff and clutch assembly and wouldn't change a thing. Car overall handles way better, dropped .6 tenths in the 1/4, and imo adds driveability. Its nice using your own brain to pick gears instead of waiting on the ECU to make up its mind or leave you bogging when it should've down shifted a gear...

EDIT: Nevermind, the diff from Tousley is now $638, seems like all the vendors went up $100 on the thing!
Both JEGS and Summit have the diff for $585.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Also if you go with a Torsen, call Steve at Tousley. He by far had the best price on the diff at $533.50. Here's part numbers and everything you need to install a Torsen:

Torsen T2 diff - M-4204-F20
2 new diff bearings - F7RZ-4221-AC
2 new axle seals - F5RZ-1S177-AA
VSS gear (goes on diff before bearing) - YS4Z-17285-AA

I was in the same boat as you wanting to build up a Lentech but in the end I was able to do the MTX swap for a 5th the price of building up the auto. All said and done I had about $1100 into the whole thing including diff and clutch assembly and wouldn't change a thing. Car overall handles way better, dropped .6 tenths in the 1/4, and imo adds driveability. Its nice using your own brain to pick gears instead of waiting on the ECU to make up its mind or leave you bogging when it should've down shifted a gear...

EDIT: Nevermind, the diff from Tousley is now $638, seems like all the vendors went up $100 on the thing!
Im going with a Torsen T-2 is $585 on jegs like the man said. Lentech's probably arent bad just the price puts them so far out of the realm of economic possibilities and they do it intentionally I think. Like come on you offer a trans rated to 500hp but you use a stock differential and tell your customers that to get it to hold that 500hp you got to spend $2,300 more to get it to hold the power you claim it to be rated to. Its kind of messed up and false advertising to me like how can you claim 500hp and you have to pay $3700 but the kicker is they want you to spend an extra $2300 to do what it claims to do. That simply makes no real sense and $6,000 is ridiculous for a focus transmission when a super glide for a all out race car is $4,000 and they hold 2-3,000 horsepower. With this swap shoot this will be less than simply replacing an automatic transmission at a dealership. Shoot everyone needs to do this if their automatic fails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
sorry for the long response I've made a little im collecting parts for the trans and my motor so its slow but steady...one thing im running into an issue with is the ECU they say I need to know the ID of one that I need or some junk
 

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Salvage yards like to cross reference other models and years. Maybe that is why they need to know? Are you trying to get the ecu to go with it? The Focus has different manual transmissions, I think three. Also only one manual transmission works for the duratec. IIRC
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
I am looking for an ECU for my 08 SES with a manual transmission (non-pzev) with 3.82 gears in it that was pulled from an 08 (drive by wire)

Everything else is squared away thanks to steve from tousley he found everything including pieced together a main wiring harness that would translate into a manual wiring harness for my car using the VIN the only thing I need is to find a ECU that will work....ID whatever I need. OR if someone knows what information I need to figure it out thats helpful too...
 

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can you use any mx-75 trans? im looking at doing the same thing, gonna start ordering parts while im in afghan. Who is a good vender that can help me with ordering all the parts i need?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
steve over at tousley sat down and got everything including the main wiring harness set up on an invoice for me the only thing I need is the ECU
 
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