Not really. If your plug gap is wrong that causes issues and if you are having an issue with controlling boost that is something else, too, but they don't give that real tight jagged up and down chart line usually.Oreo said:
Not really. If your plug gap is wrong that causes issues and if you are having an issue with controlling boost that is something else, too, but they don't give that real tight jagged up and down chart line usually.Oreo said:Can you think of anything that might increase the jagged-ness of a dyno curve that would NOT be due to some shortcomming of the engine or tune?
EVERYONE with a dynojet uses the dynojet stack ( weather station ). They have been around forever. Before the use of the stack was all DOS based software. Nothing to do with smoothness or jaggedenss. And it should be noted that our stack is right next to the car at all times and is unobstructed.f2focus said:What I mean by compensation is you have weather stations that are added to the dyno, you have the eddy current load, torque cell and other things that can be used to determince actuall HP. These have to do with actuall HP but there is also SAE and uncorrected CF settings and there is a difference on smoothness there...
I just viewed our dynos with all the different settings ( DIN, EEC, SAE, STD, Uncorrected ) and there is NO difference in smoothing compared to the charts that I've already posted. Would you like me to post them?f2focus said:I have run my cars on about 4 different dyno's some with SAE and some uncorrected and some with high and low smoothing factor I have seen the difference. Sure with SAE and high smooth factor the line looks really smooth and I have used Dynamic Racing Solutions a lot and have asked them to run it in different settings and there is a difference...
No kidding. How bout that.f2focus said:You know what I must apologize for my friend that was using my computer at the shop, he was waiting for his car to be done and we were talking about this thread and I did not want it to get out of hand. He put some stuff and then deleted and then retyped information. He figured on having some fun with the people he used deal with at EuroSport. My bad for leaving the computer logged in. But atleast he was happy with his new turbo kit on his new car!
So I am sorry for his action, believe me I want to stay away from any posts that have FS in them....just some lessons learned.
And I know that the car needs a little more work and Juan is working on another file and I expect a little more power with the file and the 3" exhaust.
Your car is "kind of" unique. Remember, HiBoost is NOT using FULL ECU tuning on your car. They have supplied you with an injector controller. As we discussed at our dyno day, you are running STOCK spark values, originally intended for a naturally aspirated car, not a turbocharged car. This is a risky way to operate, but since you have a J&S, you are OK. Running on the dyno in different gears will usually show different loads. The different loads have different spark values and that is part of the reason why you have bumpier graph lines when you compare them. "Most" ECUs will have smaller spark values as the load goes up, though.MrTea said:in regards to gearing, and feel free to ignore it if i should only be talking about smoothing. but in my atx (where there is never anything really near 1:1) the higher the gear, the "bumpier" the graph gets. this was even at the dyno day where a quick 2nd gear pull happened to be on with my final pull. seen it on a few dyno's now. this would mostly me do the fact, if what i'm reading is correct and it sounds that way, since it takes longer to go through the revs you see a bit more variance....more chance to show those small variances? the #'s tend to not vary that much, but the look of the graph does....am i understanding that part correctly?
In said case, I'd say the J&S was more primary than tertiary. There was NO ECU tuning provided, only fuel injector control. We're talking stock spark tables with low boost and enough fuel and the J&S to keep it from letting go. Personally, I don't like the way the J&S is being utilized, but I'm biased and much prefer full ECU tuning.Oreo said:My understanding is that J&S is a secondary, or in his case, terciary electronic control mechanism specifically designed to prevent premature detonation. It's usually used with FI to prevent blowing your engine.
Necessary? No, but that is my opinion and there are plenty who disagree with me on that. Its a great product and I don't think there are any negatives other than its not free.tallguy2.3 said:So does that mean that if a turbo'd car for example has full ECU tuning, you dont think a J&S is necessary? Or would it still be a worthwhile precaution?
Bump and to answer this question I missed:thekrux said:man i love this comeback. i gotta remember to blame my friend next time i need an internet scapegoat. :lol:anyway what do the sae din eec stand for?