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Hi!! I'm interested in turbocharging my 2001 Focus automatic 2.0l dohc 16v. what do you think of www.cavalierextreme.com focus turbo kit or other turbo kits out there. How is the engine/fuel management with the base turbo system at 9psi with a custom-burned chip from Focus Sport but without the 42lb injectors and pro-mass airflow? I want to get these later. Will my car stall or hesitate etc? Will the auto be alright at ~9 psi of boost but driven safe and calm daily? Shouldl I get boost controler, gauges, turbo timer, and other electronic components right away? How will the car perform with the SCT/FS standard program tune and how often do you tune and dyno test? I might get a 5 or 6-speed swap soon but not sure how that will be done yet. Sorry for all the questions! Thanks!!
 

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That turbo kit is relatively new, and I am pretty confident no one is running it right now. The best option for you would be to buy the kit (if this is really the kit you want, IMO there are better options) and get the chip and have a shop that knows superchips fairly well dyno tune it for you. As far as buying the accessories and other parts right away, I suggest just do everything at once, it makes for less headaches.
 

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Hi!! I'm interested in turbocharging my 2001 Focus automatic 2.0l dohc 16v. what do you think of www.cavalierextreme.com focus turbo kit or other turbo kits out there.
Cavalier extreme kit is a figment of your imagination, and theirs. It never actually came out. They make kits for other cars and they decided that if someone would pay them, they'd make a kit for the focus. Never happened.

How is the engine/fuel management with the base turbo system at 9psi with a custom-burned chip from Focus Sport but without the 42lb injectors and pro-mass airflow? I want to get these later.
Can't do a tune without injectors and mafs on a boosted car period. the injectors and mafs are both detrimental in the adding of fuel to the increased air consumption of the engine.

Will my car stall or hesitate etc?
It will puke it's guts (pistons and rods) out onto the pavement.

Will the auto be alright at ~9 psi of boost but driven safe and calm daily?
No, you'll want to upgrade before you take the turbo plunge. 9spi will roughly correlate to ~180fwhp, big no no on stock atx.

Shouldl I get boost controler, gauges, turbo timer, and other electronic components right away?
boost gauge, yes, turbo timer, if you can afford it, electronic boost controller, not needed manual will do.

How will the car perform with the SCT/FS standard program tune and how often do you tune and dyno test?
You tune and dyno test once, to initially set the car up with the turbo, then you only need to re-tune if you change engine parameters (boost, timing, etc) or parts (mafs, turbo, injectors, etc)

I might get a 5 or 6-speed swap soon but not sure how that will be done yet. Sorry for all the questions! Thanks!!
You have a lot of searching to do my friend...

I hate to say it, but once you actually see what it'll cost you probably won't go FI. It seems many people come on here at first, when they get their cars, and they ask the type of questions you do. "I want a turbo, how do I do it?" They never actually get the turbo or anything else they say they will. There are some exceptions to the rule though. Hopefully you'll be one of those. Good luck.

Oh yeah, by the way, you'll be probably be up to, I'd guess, $3,000 - $5,000 with tuning and the tranny upgrades for what you say you want to do. And that's on the cheap side.
 

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^^Sprout, are you currently running FI?(and does oil count as a performance 'modification'?)

Just a few things to add in here...

1. I think I've seen one or two posts about that cavalier kit, and that was it.
2. You will need new injectors and a MAF calibrated for your new injectors. The stock injectors won't cut it at any level of boost.
3. With a proper tune, and everything hooked up correctly your car shouldn't hesitate or stall at all.
4. Your auto won't be alright at 9psi. I'd do a search and see how much power you can get by with on the stock tranny. I've seen autos with Jackson racing superchargers that were doing ok.
5. Boost guage definately. The timer and the controller you don't need at first. A turbo timer is $80 for convienence, and an electronic boost controller is far superior to a manual contoller.
6. A mail order chip would most likely be fine, but a custom dyno tune will get the best performance out of the car.
7. The tranny swap might not be worth it, as it might be cheaper to get a whole new focus...

a couple of other things I wanted to add...9psi will probably be more like 200whp. If I were looking at an entry level kit, I'd try Tom's starter kit. Search for focus power turbo kits and you should find it (I'm not sure what I'm allowed to post here anymore). I'd start at maybe 5-6psi to keep your tranny safe(which will be more than you'll be able to get NA anyway) and that way you'll only be in for about $4000. Good luck to you in your searches.
 

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You've got a pm chrisk.
 

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^^Sprout, are you currently running FI?(and does oil count as a performance 'modification'?)
You're a funny guy... And thanks for saying everything I already said in your own words...

Oh yeah, and the focus atx will yield lower numbers than the mtx75, so 180fwhp is quite reasonable for a car with a stock head, atx, and stock internals, on 91octane (he lives in california)
 

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^^Sprout, are you currently running FI?(and does oil count as a performance 'modification'?)
You're a funny guy... And thanks for saying everything I already said in your own words...
Any time man.

Oh yeah, and the focus atx will yield lower numbers than the mtx75, so 180fwhp is quite reasonable for a car with a stock head, atx, and stock internals, on 91octane (he lives in california)
with stock everything, and 91 octane at 8psi I put out 200whp. I figured, subract 10hp or so from me at the same psi, then add 10 or so for the extra pressure and a custom tune, and he should be getting in the 200whp range. (it seems like everyone rounds up here, so 195whp = 200ihp(internet horsepower)).

I mostly just repeated everything in my own words to put a positive spin on the information he's getting. There is no need to be a dick to the new guys. I remember when I was just learning and piecing together a custom kit and it took one guys being positive about it everytime I talked to him to keep me going, while everyone else told me "it's never gonna happen; you don't even know what you're doing." It took me a year and a half or research and putting things together, but I am finally boosted (for almost a year now).

p.s.- scott, I saw you saying that you are running 15psi on your stock internals. What's your tuning and octane like?
 

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It seems many people come on here at first, when they get their cars, and they ask the type of questions you do. "I want a turbo, how do I do it?" They never actually get the turbo or anything else they say they will. There are some exceptions to the rule though. Hopefully you'll be one of those. Good luck.
Hey, I did the opposite. I put a turbo on my car and THEN came on here to ask questions. I'd rather see poeple asking questions and searching this forum before they make the plunge. And possibly deciding not to make the plunge.

Been there, done that, not fun spending the better part of three years tyring to make a turbo Focus safe and driveable.
 

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...an electronic boost controller is far superior to a manual contoller.
In what way?

My manual holds set boost without spike or creep, has only two parts that move during normal operation, takes no electricity, is adjustable without tools, and is comparatively very cheap.... What does it take to become far superior to that?
 

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...an electronic boost controller is far superior to a manual contoller.
In what way?

My manual holds set boost without spike or creep, has only two parts that move during normal operation, takes no electricity, is adjustable without tools, and is comparatively very cheap.... What does it take to become far superior to that?
I was thinking strickly performance. The electronic boost controller will keep the wastegate closed until hits your desired boost pressure, and then will open the valve almost instantaniously. Basicly, the wastegate won't be bleeding off any pressure early. My personal car feels much stronger with the controller on versus off at the same boost level.

I guess with the other points...holds boost without spikes or creeping...electronic has a single stepper motor as it's only moving part...is adjustable without tools...uses electricity, and is expensive.

it basicly boils down to personal preference. For me, the EBC just works better than the manual. Rod prefers the MBC. Choice in equipment is all personal preference.
 

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just a thought, but before trying to sell him on a kit maybe we should suggest alot of searching so he knows what he is getting into.. I know from personal experience that blowing a motor is not fun.. Just a thought though.. If you ask me I would suggest that you go to that little search tab and read alot.. good luck
jake
 

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I was thinking strickly performance. The electronic boost controller will keep the wastegate closed until hits your desired boost pressure, and then will open the valve almost instantaniously. Basicly, the wastegate won't be bleeding off any pressure early. My personal car feels much stronger with the controller on versus off at the same boost level.
Same deal with a good check ball style manual BC. The check ball sits in its seat holding boost out of the WG actuator until the desired boost level overcomes the BC spring pressure.

... now a straight bleed type BC is another story - that design is crap.

A good electric is great of course too.... but just like the manuals, not all of them are of good designs either, so it is important to shop carefully.
 

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I was thinking strickly performance. The electronic boost controller will keep the wastegate closed until hits your desired boost pressure, and then will open the valve almost instantaniously. Basicly, the wastegate won't be bleeding off any pressure early. My personal car feels much stronger with the controller on versus off at the same boost level.
Same deal with a good check ball style manual BC. The check ball sits in its seat holding boost out of the WG actuator until the desired boost level overcomes the BC spring pressure.

... now a straight bleed type BC is another story - that design is crap.

A good electric is great of course too.... but just like the manuals, not all of them are of good designs either, so it is important to shop carefully.
That is a good point Rod. Quality equipment is very important.
 
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