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Discussion Starter #1
Ok sometime this week I'm gonna install my Crower stage 2's and my Kent cam gears. I did a search and I think I have everything that's necessary from the info I gleamed from the various searches. I just want to be sure I'm not missing something. This is what I have:

Cams and cam gears (duh)

Camshaft Oil seals x2
Cam Gear Bolts x2
Cam pre-lube
Cam alignment tool
Blue loctite(for various bolts)
T55 Torx socket
E10 reverse torx socket
All the tourqe specs and tightening order.

Anything else you guys would suggest? Do I need to check the valve clearences with a valve clearence tool?

[ 02-10-2003, 03:07 AM: Message edited by: ZX3 Canuck ]
 

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a lot of time and patience. a preferably some1 w/past engine knowledge, whether focus or non-focus. and a tq wrench of course.

i'd also suggest a breaker bar (if ur tq wrench isnt long) 4 those cam spocket bolts in particular.

oh yes, an 18mm socket 2 turn the engine over when ur lookin 4 tdc.

alas, u'll need a long flat blade screwdriver 2 drop in cylinder #1 2 2 help u find tdc. and 2 do that a 5/8in deep socket and extension 2 yank ur plug. thinkin of it, u'll need a 8mm 4 the valve cover bolts and 10mm 4 the battery disconnect/and cam belt tensioner. which also requires a 5mm hex key (u can get away w/another screwdriver, hex is easier) 2 manipulate the tensioner when u reset it.

ahh flashlight

u'll want a pair vicegrips or a crescent (adj'ble) wrench 2 hold ur cams as u hammer those cam sprocket bolts home.

and lastly (til i think of somethin else) take the time 2 make this...take a fair sized piece of cardboard and make outlines of each cap and seal. so when u take them out, lay them in order and in the right direction (so u can put them back in order w/o wonderin if u switched anythin, leave bolts in the caps, so the same bolts go back w/their original cap).

oh yeah, spare engine oil, a lil 2 lube ur seals and any parts u feel need a lube when u start it back up. and also a full oil change after ur 1st 30min of operation.

man, i'm on a roll... u NEED a good set of angled feeler guages 2 check the lash of ur cams. if some land outta spec, ur gonna have 2 change some caps (c ur ford dealer 4 those) 2 get lashed right. crower 2s ur gonna b close, dont fret if u gotta pull it apart after u've done the math and need 2 order some buckets. u'll have 2 do it 2 find out.

and ur gonna need some silicone sealant or gasket makers 2 lay on the bottom of ur #1 cap 4 each cam b4 u drop it back on.

oh yeah, 1 last thing...when u fire this thing up, DO NOT i repeat DO NOT free stand rev NOR let it idle. u need 2 hold that sucker at 2-2,5k 4 15-20min. so figure out a way 2 hold that cable open 4 that time and let it hold in that range. DO NOT REV OR IDLE.

yeash, i thought this was gonna b short. good luck.

questions welcome,

-Ult

[ 02-10-2003, 01:26 AM: Message edited by: UltegraSTI ]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So how many lash caps should I have just in case?

Might as well also post the various torque specs etc. to check if they are correct.

Cam bearing caps unscrewing order:

3,5,9,7,1 Intake
2,8,10,6,4 Exhaust

Cam bearing caps tightening order:

5,4,3,2,1 Intake
10,9,8,7,6 Exhaust

Stage 1 10Nm (7.38 ft-lb)
Stage 2 19Nm (14.00 ft-lb)

Cam gear bolts tightening:

68Nm (50.2 ft -lb).

Valve cover tightening:

Stage 1: 2 Nm (1.48 ft-lb)
Stage 2: 7 Nm (5.16 ft-lb)

Cam gear cover bolts tightening:

10 Nm

Are these the correct valve clearances? They were indicated on the cam card that came with the cams. They are cold spec.

Intake: .010
Exhaust: .012

I read a thread where noresull recommended going with what was provided on the cam card.

[ 02-10-2003, 03:08 AM: Message edited by: ZX3 Canuck ]
 

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Originally posted by UltegraSTI:
and ur gonna need some silicone sealant or gasket makers 2 lay on the bottom of ur #1 cap 4 each cam b4 u drop it back on.

-Ult
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">This is the first time i have heard this plz explain? Also yo u need ford's "special tool" to install the cam oil seal? maybe more details on how to install it without the tool
 

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dont need a tool 2 install the seals, lube em up and slide em on.

placin a bead of silicone on the bottom edge of the 1st caps (cam sprocket side) is added insurance against oil leaks. similar 2 other places (manifolds and valve cover gaskets on a v8) where seals and gaskets r't present, but potential 4 a leak is.

-Ult
 

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sweet, u got the part # for the seals?
 

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uh... i just put silicone on the #1 caps where they would be contacting the head....

and I just lubed my oil seals and slid them onto my cams...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So are the valve clearances correct?? Some threads state that witht he Crower stage 2's you don't even need to check the clearances. What could happen if the aren't correct?
 

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Make SURE the adjusting bolts are tightened on the cam gears before you start installing them. I know it sounds stupid to not check them but it happens.
 

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Haha, I had half that many tools and just cams and gears and did it in an hour. Take your time, it's a great learning experience. Anyone who can pull this mod off will feel a lot more in tune with your car. Good luck, let us know how it turns out. Later doods

g
 

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make sure when you put the timing belt back on, it fits correctly on the crank gear. My friend did his own cams and let the belt slip a little off the gear and it actually cut the belt in half width wise making it look like a stretched rubber band. If it had torn, he'd be screwed big time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, I still haven't done this, next weekend probably.


Anyways, just a couple more questions.

1 - Once the cams are installed and the cam gear bolts ready to be torqued, how do you torque them down? I'd imagine that as your tightening them, your rotating the cams too making it impossible to get them gear bolts tightened properly? Do you have to apply some sort of negative resistance?

2 - Once the stock cams are out and the new ones are placed into the engine, how do you know which way the lobes should be pointing/facing?

3 - Dumb but I want to be sure. The aftermarket cams with the paint on one end, is it the intake or exhaust?
 

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What is the part number on those oil seals?
 

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Originally posted by ZX3 Canuck:
Ok, I still haven't done this, next weekend probably.


Anyways, just a couple more questions.

1 - Once the cams are installed and the cam gear bolts ready to be torqued, how do you torque them down? I'd imagine that as your tightening them, your rotating the cams too making it impossible to get them gear bolts tightened properly? Do you have to apply some sort of negative resistance?

2 - Once the stock cams are out and the new ones are placed into the engine, how do you know which way the lobes should be pointing/facing?

3 - Dumb but I want to be sure. The aftermarket cams with the paint on one end, is it the intake or exhaust?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Keep in mind I only know the info for my install of my Crower cams, so the following may or may not hold true.

1. You can use a crescent wrench to hold the cam while you tighten down the cam bolt. (the Crowers have a full on hexed area, the stock cams just have a little tit -- both are between cylinders 1 and 2)

2. The cams have slots in the end. They run a little higher than right through the center. You should have a cam alignment tool (it's a small, flat, metal bar -- but as long as it's strong flat and fits, you're okay) that will only fit through both slots in the cams and rest on the top of the head when the cams are at Top Dead Center. Make sure the piston in cylinder 1 is at TDC as well.

3. On my cams, the blue paint was on the exhaust cam. (I remember thinking it was strange that blue would be exhaust).

Hope this helps! Good luck with the install!
 
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