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FINALLY!!! Pics of my (blown apart) motor.

883 views 35 replies 24 participants last post by  SonicKuz  
#1 ·
Well, after almost a month, I finally got to take pictures of the destruction I did.

Hole in the back side of the block(looking down at crank)
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When the rod exited the above mentioned hole, it took the starter out on the way.
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The cylinder wall where the part of the rod still attached to the crank took a chunk out of.
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Hole in oil pan and in bulkhead (far left of picture) on the front of the motor.
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Whatever exited the front of the motor did this to my header
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MORE BELOW...
 
#2 ·
Looking at the front of the motor with the oil pan dropped(notice large hole below small hole LoL)
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Looking up at the broken part of the rod still attached to the crank (through above mentioned hole)
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The piston and all of the fragments that were in the oil pan
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Top of piston where it hit the valves (the smileys)
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Cylinder #4 not looking too healthy either
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MORE....
 
#4 ·
But on a positive note, I can show you the wheels I have had for 3 months but only driven 400 miles on.

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And my new radio and SVT control surround.
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Here is how it all happened. I was on the freeway just driving normally. Had to pass a car to make the exit I wanted. Accelerated to pass him and he sped up too. So I pushed it a little farther. In 3rd gear, shift light came on... said to myself "just a little mooooore" REV LIMITER BOOM No nitrous. Just hit the rev limiter. Not quite sure as to why it did the destruction that it did, but oh well. Ish happens. Well, thats all for now. I'll have a few more pictures to show off when the new rods and pistons come in.

[ 06-24-2002: Message edited by: Tobyboom ]</p>
 
#5 ·
Judas Priest that's nasty.
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#6 ·
Yikes! Mass destruction!


Toby go BOOM!
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#10 ·
What's w/ these harbinger screen-names??
Have you seen the pics of 4DRDropTopFocus' car?
It's a drop-top now alright...
Now this??TobyBOOM!!!!
Hmmmmmm which 'jetter's next???
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#11 ·
someone needs to kick ford in the ass for making these ****ty rods, what a bunch of ****, look at that rod, its like it 20 pieces, and not even on the nitrous and this happens? OUCH, WTF is going on here? Im even scared to drive my car normally now
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The more i see this, the more i dont wanna put boost on the car till its built, which may delay the whole damn process even more, this kinda stuff just sux man. I thought before you only had a burnt piston, what happened? Please dont tell me you just kept driving on it, cause if you did, i would have to blame you for this. I remember how you posted pics of htat piston that cracked a bit, was this all the same incident, or is this hte second one
 
#12 ·
So now in just the Dallas/Ft. Worth Texas there have been 4 Foci with blown motors:

Focusparts.com
ZX3Sith
myself
Tobyboom

must be something in the water!
 
#13 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nazthug:
someone needs to kick ford in the ass for making these ****ty rods, what a bunch of ****, look at that rod, its like it 20 pieces, and not even on the nitrous and this happens? OUCH, WTF is going on here? Im even scared to drive my car normally now
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The more i see this, the more i dont wanna put boost on the car till its built, which may delay the whole damn process even more, this kinda stuff just sux man. I thought before you only had a burnt piston, what happened? Please dont tell me you just kept driving on it, cause if you did, i would have to blame you for this. I remember how you posted pics of htat piston that cracked a bit, was this all the same incident, or is this hte second one
<hr></blockquote>


Not quite sure what you're talking about Naz. All of those little pieces are from the bulkhead, not the rod. I clearly stated that the rod EXITED to block. And I have never posted pics of a cracked or burnt piston. The only thing that I've done is burn a valve or two.
 
#14 ·
are you running a chip where the fuel cut and ignition cut are set to the same value (i am assuming 7000rpm?) or did you just hit the stock ignition cut at 6750rpm ?

i used to have the former setup.. and i bumped 7000rpm once or twice.. luckily that didn't happen to me. note to self. AVOID top of tachometer

could you please post more details of that setup? what is the car's yr, what modifications were performed ?
 
#15 ·
i swear someone posted pics of bad pistons cause they were using n2o, i thought it was you...maybe not

Hold up...is this engine #2 or is this your first blown engine? I may be just getting confused, but i thought you blew your engine or at least damaged it a while ago already
 
#17 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nazthug:
i swear someone posted pics of bad pistons cause they were using n2o, i thought it was you...maybe not

Hold up...is this engine #2 or is this your first blown engine? I may be just getting confused, but i thought you blew your engine or at least damaged it a while ago already
<hr></blockquote>

i agree with naz, i was sure that you had blown a vavle or something not too long ago... in fact i'm absolutey sure of it.

Nate
 
#18 ·
Its amazing how little some people pay attention
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tobyboom:



The only thing that I've done is burn a valve or two.
<hr></blockquote>

Motor was fine last time. Just needed a new head.

[ 06-24-2002: Message edited by: Tobyboom ]</p>
 
#22 ·
im stilll bugin nader bout that, he is suposed to get the prices on the SVT rods, but you mihgt as well, just like i am, go with eagle, they wil be more than enough for 300-400whp, tons of honda guys are using them with great success and they are $380 for the set!!!!!!!!!!

Someone keeps telling me when you do rods and pistons you have to rebalance the engine and crank, this sux because instead of just throwing rods and pistons and some bolts into the car in 1 day at a shop, i have to mail my engine some where to hell to get it balanced and ****, does this HAVE to be done???
 
#23 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tobyboom:
Its amazing how little some people pay attention<hr></blockquote>

A.D.D. WHAT??
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[ 06-25-2002: Message edited by: Bmorezx3 ]</p>
 
#24 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nazthug:
Someone keeps telling me when you do rods and pistons you have to rebalance the engine and crank, this sux because instead of just throwing rods and pistons and some bolts into the car in 1 day at a shop, i have to mail my engine some where to hell to get it balanced and ****, does this HAVE to be done???<hr></blockquote>You don't HAVE to do anything. But don't plan on your engine lasting more than 100 miles if you don't. The only way you wouldn't have to rebalance everything is if the new parts you have are EXACTLY the same weight as the old parts, which for the most part isn't going to happen. Who knows, your engine might run smoother than when it was stock.
 
#25 ·
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Red Barchetta:
You don't HAVE to do anything. But don't plan on your engine lasting more than 100 miles if you don't. The only way you wouldn't have to rebalance everything is if the new parts you have are EXACTLY the same weight as the old parts, which for the most part isn't going to happen. Who knows, your engine might run smoother than when it was stock.<hr></blockquote>
NICE Screen-Name....If you're in the "LimeLight"...
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BTW,WELCOME to the 'Jet!!!
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[ 06-25-2002: Message edited by: michaelxi ]</p>
 
#26 ·
Tobyboom, THX for the pictures
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Interesting!

Any chance of a few close-ups of the small end in the piston to see if the rod is bend?
Also I'm very interested in close-ups of the fracture zone of the part in the piston.
Would you be willing to to ship this piston/small end rod to me?
Could be interesting to take a further look at it.
Also maybe a picture of the remaining rod.

Where in the engine (or cylinder -top or bottom) did you find the piston?

Now if the piston had hit the valves or the valves the piston, I assume it's the first. It means that the piston traveled higher than it's supposed to (no wonder I guess)= seperated from the rest of the rod!

This most likely happend during the exhaust stroke at the point where tension in the rod is at it's maximum.

If it were during the compression the piston would probably not have hit the top as there is compression and beginning combustion there counteracting the upward movement..

With this infomation, the sequence of failrure could look as follows:

On top of exhaust stroke the rod snaps, the piston slams into the valves, the severed rod travels down again, and drops out of the cylinder.
Due to the rotational mass forces, the shaft end of the rod slams into the windage tray thing, making the hole, continues to hit various parts of the block, slamming into the bottom of the cylinder, ripping a small part out of it.

The bits 'n pieces from the destroyed rods exits the engine at warious points.....

Why did this happen?
Overloading in one way or another.
1: It was overloaded so severely beyond design limit that it snapped.
2: Material defect leading to afatigue failure, or material defect leading to total failure because of reduced strength from the defect...