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Discussion Starter #1
Would calling up JE Pistons be my only option for buying stock sized forged pistons and rods? I want to do this because I don't want to bore out anything and want to retain a 9:1 compression for a turbo. Thanks.

- Matt
 

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if u do it right, there is NO such thing as just buying stock size pistons, because after you drive your car for a while, your cylinder walls arent fully round anymore, and when you stick a stock diameter piston in there, its not gonna seat properly, maybe will drive for a while, but wont last long.

You really always have to get CUSTOM pistons, a bit larger, and then have the cylinder walls matched, bored out. THat way you always get a nice, smooth, round wall.

I know, i learned this after many attempts to find a different route, but you just gotta do it right...it sux, i know
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Naz. I appreciate the straight forward bad, yet good news. How much did it cost you (approximately) to have your boring done? I'm just curious to how much the entire install (not including parts) would cost me. Thanks man. Peace.

- Matt
 

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i havent done it yet, but thats how its done

The machine work on the block is cheap, maybe $100 or something...its just making it all go together that has to be done right

usually u get the pistons, a bit larger then stock, take them to the shop with the block and have them hone it to fit the pistons.

It sux, i know, if i could just throw in pistons and rods with nothing else, i would do it tonight in my garage.

You also wanna balance the whole rotating assembly, again, cheap, but you gotta do it...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sweet. Thanks a lot Naz, you've been very helpful. Not as expensive as I expected
which is good for me. Now I have to determine if I want the 8.5:1's from BatInc.net or the 9:1's from FocusCentral. Any recommendations anyone? Also, Crower or Eagle rods? Thanks.

- Matt

BTW - Compression Ratio low for upcoming turbo...


[ 10-28-2002, 11:18 PM: Message edited by: focus_rs ]
 

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depends what youre doin.

Crowers are some of the best rods out there, SUPER beefy, i held them in my hands..awesome rods

As far as pistons go, you can get JE, weisco, ross, crower, pretty much anything, also Childs and Alberts make great stuff, about $450 for pistons and rings i believe. If having your block out for a while is no big deal, than its no problem.

Have the pistons made a bit bigger then stock, take them and block to a good machine shop, have them match the 2.

As far as rods, eagle and crower are both great, eagle is a lot cheaper, but still a great rod.

You also need main caps and bolts, more importantly bolts.

To balance the whole thing, i think you need to have the crank, rods, pistons, crank pulley. I think you only need 1 of the rods and 1 of the pistons too. the balancing is cheep, and will probably run smoother than stock if balanced correctly.

As far as compression, again, it depends on what you wanna do. The lower you go, the more you loose and the engine becomes less responsive.

For boost, even stock compression is fine with proper tuning. 9:1 is great, 8.5:1 is as low as i would go, and thats for heavy boost.

9:1 should be plenty i think.

Tom is runing 400whp right now and i think he has 8.5:1

BTW, to save you the trouble, tom can have you a FULLY built block at your door step for a bit over $2k, a pretty good deal, same block that he is runing 400whp+ on right now, day after day at the track

[ 10-28-2002, 11:23 PM: Message edited by: nazthug ]
 

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Originally posted by nazthug:
if u do it right, there is NO such thing as just buying stock size pistons, because after you drive your car for a while, your cylinder walls arent fully round anymore, and when you stick a stock diameter piston in there, its not gonna seat properly, maybe will drive for a while, but wont last long.

You really always have to get CUSTOM pistons, a bit larger, and then have the cylinder walls matched, bored out. THat way you always get a nice, smooth, round wall.

I know, i learned this after many attempts to find a different route, but you just gotta do it right...it sux, i know
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I mostly agree with this but I've re-honed and re-ringed dozons of times without re-boring. Maybe the Zetec can't take this, but I've done it for 30+ years on the small block Chevy.
 

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Originally posted by Phillip:
In a seperate tread, I asked if the stock SVT pistons were the same bore size as ours. I was wondering why we can take a set of SVT rods, pins and pistons, give our engines a fresh hone, then pop those babies in?

No need to yank out the whole stinkin' block unless I'm missin' something.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Sounds like a good way to go! Has anyone priced the stock components? Thanks.
Tim
 

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Cant the Compressinn Distance is diff. on the SVT and ther dished pistons

Guys just buy thr eagle rods and the forged pistons ,its the best way to go

tom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tom, what forged pistons do you recommend? I'm most likely going to go with something with a 9:1 compression ratio because I'm definitely going turbo sometime in the future. Thanks.

- Matt
 

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Tom,

Can we get aftermarket pistons in the stock bore? If so, we should still be able to get away with a fresh hone and just toss in a better rod and piston combo without a complete engine pull.

I would rather yank it and go a first oversize myself.
 

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hey tom who makes pistons lower than 9:1

I heard JE only goes to 9

I need about a 8.5:1 to counter act my head 10.5:1 to come to a total of about 9-9.5:1

Tom what do you recommend compression wise for about 300whp on the street, cali octane
 

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What's the comp distance on the SVT piston vs the stocker? Rod length must be different. Has the same stroke. Guess I need to buy the current Motorsport catalog. BTW you should be able to get any piston in std. bore.

[ 10-29-2002, 08:28 PM: Message edited by: fruitport_focus ]
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Naz, I know I'm not Tom
, but I do know that BatInc.net sells Focus Pistons at almost a stock bore with an 8.5:1 Compression at less than $500. Not too bad if you ask me.

- Matt
 

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No one that i know of is doing pistons in a stock bore they are 8 to 15 over bore, so a block with a little miles on them can be used easy

Here is the problem with just doing rods and pistons
block will need to be honed NOT BORED
need to balance the rotating assy.
why you are there why not just install the billet main caps for safety,help the oiling holes,squair the deck(blue print) and install ARP main and head studs

These are all things that i think are a must ,It does not cost that much more to do it right the first time ,It will cost twice as much to do it right the second time

I am at 166 dyno passes on the new engine and about 120 to 150 passes down the 1/8 1/4 track and about 5000 miles on the engine and 326hp at the wheels ,dont cut corners on the engine it never pays off

tom
 

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In a seperate tread, I asked if the stock SVT pistons were the same bore size as ours. I was wondering why we can take a set of SVT rods, pins and pistons, give our engines a fresh hone, then pop those babies in?

No need to yank out the whole stinkin' block unless I'm missin' something.
 

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good way of putting it tom

Heres a question

Do you think if i were to get a brand new block, that it would still need to be honed???

I am trying to figure out if i should work with my current block or get a new one to work on, and then just swap

If i can just buy pistons and throw them into a brand new block, that should already be perfect and all, it would be easier

any info on that???
 

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A seasoned block is better than a brand new block. As the block is heated and cooled, the bores tend to move around a little. You would be better off with a block that has been used, and do all the machine work so everything lines up.
 
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