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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I got a 00 LX. Its got about 187k on it, and about 65k on a full rebuild after the valve seat dropped several years ago. Car ran like a champ til last month when the coil and wires started creating some drivability issues. So I put on a BWD coil and autolite wires along with a set of autolite coppers. Again car ran great til yesterday when it wouldn't start. Took a plug out to check spark and it seemed weak so I warrantied the coil out but still havin the same issues. Spark seems weaker than it should. I can smell the fuel and hear the pump... Every so often it'll pop as if it wants to start but it just wont fire... Any clues guys? I thought maybe the crank position sensor...?
 

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Are you getting spark to all four cylinders? Also, why the coppers? As I recall, plat is recommended.

CPS' can cause all kinds of weird problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got coppers cause they are cheap anf they work just fine. Cars a rusty pos. Its just a to and from car...And I had not checked all four cylinders, only no 2 so far, but I don't see why the rest wouldn't work with all brand new parts. I suppose I can check it out tomorrow though.
 

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It's just an easy thing to check/eliminate. I know certain cars are REALLY finnicky about what plugs you use...I never tried copper in my Focus so I don't know how it would like them. If you've used them in an SPI before and they were ok, then cross that off too. If you're getting fuel and spark to all four, then it's a timing/computer issue. Have you ever changed the timing belt? I can't remember if these are interference or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Spark at all four, timing belt was replaced when the motor was rebuilt 65k ago. I cant imagine its the plugs. They ran great for a month... I'm cluless at this point. Gotta imagine its a sensor. Anyone else got any ideas?
 

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Yeah, if it ran with the plugs previously that shouldn't be it...I just wasn't sure if the SPI would throw a fit over copper or not.

My gut is telling me CPS, but to avoid throwing money/parts at a problem I'd do a compression test on all 4, and maybe check actual fuel pressure. Just because you're getting gas in there doesn't mean you're getting the right amount. The fuel rail has a schrader valve, at least. If you slipped the timing belt that could explain it...as I mentioned I can't remember if this is an interference engine but if it is you'd probably know you slipped teeth.

Edit: I was hoping someone else would pop in here on this one...I only ran mine up to 130k, but the only problems it ever gave me was a couple of fuel pumps and a stripped spark plug hole which was probably my fault.
 
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