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Discussion Starter #1
Installed a 2000 Intake Manifold, FC TB and MAFS last night. I have a Volant CAI and FC Raceheaders/Flex pipe and Borla Exhaust. When driving the car last night, it would run fine once I got going. When I stopped at idle long enough, the car would die, or spend about 30 seconds sputtering before returning to normal. I figured it was just an idle adjust so spent some time today fooling aroudn with it. After we got the idle set to about 900 RPM, we shut the hood to take it for a spin. It stalled. I started back up and went for a spin around the block. Most of the time was spent sputtering. It seems like it's idling alright (a little rough) when the hood is up, but then dies when the hood is closed. Any ideas as to what's wrong? I'm stuck
 

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You deffintly have a leak somewhere..
This happend to me not to long ago...make double sure all your connections are tight tight!! and also did you plug the spare hole you had on the 2000 intake manifold? If that was left open theres the problem...you may havbe forgoten to connect a line or something as well...
 

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also make sure your TB is mounted properly and the gasktet it all the way around the opening where you can see it from each end...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just rechecked the hoses and they are fine. Also noticed that it sputters when starting and I can pull it out if I step on the gas, but when it does come to life there's a loud POP. I can see all sides of the gasket on the TB too.
 

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Originally posted by SE SPORTNY:
did ya reset the computer??
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">aghhh duggh! good question...also did you tinker at all with the fuel fuse in the fuse box?Injectors and o rings are snugly pushed in?
 

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That is the joy of making more than one mod at a time - if there is a problem you can spend alot of effort trying to fix the wrong thing. Even though it is more work in the short run, I only do one thing at a time now with a test drive after each. Been in that boat too many times.

Could it be the TPS, a leak, electrical connection to a sensor, problem with MAF sensor, sensor being effected by turbulence, .... ?
Sorry I don't have any good suggestions for you. Good luck.
 

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I just realized you did the MAFS too...some ppl have had problems with it being calibrated wrong from pro-flow...go out and put your stock MAFS back on and see if it behaves....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
AHHHHH! The Pro-M was the problem. You are my HERO! I can drive to work tomorrow!


I had my Volant bored out for the Pro-M...so I had to put the stock air intake back on. So I'm not running at FULL speed, but I'm getting there.

Thanks again for all the help guys!
 

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Originally posted by SuperMatt:
AHHHHH! The Pro-M was the problem. You are my HERO! I can drive to work tomorrow!


I had my Volant bored out for the Pro-M...so I had to put the stock air intake back on. So I'm not running at FULL speed, but I'm getting there.

Thanks again for all the help guys!
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">great to hear!! Now send that puppy back and tell them to recalibrate it right!! Let me know what happends with that..Ill these ppl gettin bad pro M's is starting to make me stare away from it
 

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y were u fiddling w/the idle adjust...unlike in past vehicles, the computer holds court over idle speed, not the idle screw. now granted if ur MAF was the prob or u had a leak, then it would not run right. just put the idle screw back where it was and let it be.

-Ult
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by UltegraSTI:
y were u fiddling w/the idle adjust...unlike in past vehicles, the computer holds court over idle speed, not the idle screw. now granted if ur MAF was the prob or u had a leak, then it would not run right. just put the idle screw back where it was and let it be.

-Ult
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Adjusting the idle made a difference, at least sitting there with the hood open it seemed alright.

I'll keep you guys updated on how Pro-M handles it...
 

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Adjusting the idle speed with the throttle plate stop screw only makes a difference until the first time you shut off the engine. If you raise idle by turing the screw, to say 1,000 RPM, the computer cannot tell that you simply do not have you foot on the gas pedal. Idle speed will seemingly increase, but the computer will make no changes. Now turn off the engine. Restart. Computer will see idle is too high, cut back on the air provided in the idle circuit, and bring idle back to 650 or whatever the computer is programmed for.

I have been told that if you open the throttle plate wide enough to get outside of the computer's ability to correct the idle speed after startup that the idle will behave crazily.
 
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