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Discussion Starter #1
not sure I'm happy with the work that was done. I wanted certain specs and I didn't end up with them. first of all I wanted -2.5 degrees of camber in front. The tech said all he could get was -2, which was exactly what they were already at due to the orientation the plates were installed with. I doubt he even touched the plates and seemed generally pissed off that I wanted to ruin my tires. I know cars are different but Should -2.5 be attainable with my setup?
Next the toe specs I gave were in inches and the machine they have apparently measures in degrees so I could'nt really argue. I wanted 0 toe in back and 1/8" total toe out in front. I ended up getting 0 degrees in front and +.53 degrees in the rear which is factory spec. Does anybody know how the degrees convert to inches?
The toe I'm not too worried about but If I can have more camber I want it. my setup is in the sig, the car does autox regularly plus being my DD.
 

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The rear toe should be at 0.
The front toe IS important.
About .14 - .18 TOTAL toe out seems to be the range.

I'm not sure if you can get more camber or not.
My 2" drop had me right in that range w/ the plates at full - , so you MAY have all it'll do?
You can look at the position of the top of your struts in relation to the hole and tell if they're leaned toward the engine as far as they'll go. (Or at least close, since caster is also adjusted with them.).
W/O seeing the strut tops, I can't tell whether there's more to be had or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
About .14 - .18 TOTAL toe out seems to be the range.
would this be a good range in degrees then? Looks like I'm going back. The camber does seem to be maxed out though, both strut shafts are towards the engine.

thanks
 

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Those are the #'s per the "Digital" alignment machines.
You CAN be more conservative, but that range should be decent.
 
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