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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since Focaljet is mostly dead, I figured I would post up a few pictures of my new to me 02 green ZX3
to help bring some life back into the site. (Yeah right. :lol:) I bought this car in the spring of 2014 after
selling a Ford ranger I had been driving around in for a month. Wasn't feeling the truck vibe and wanted
to get back into a ZX3 like my old yellow car. Found her on craigslist up in Minnesota. My brother and
I drove up there, I looked her over, liked what I saw, and bought her from an old Army veteran for $2600.
Both of the front springs were broke, the tires were shot, the drives door handle mechanism needed
to be replaced and she needed to be cleaned up inside and out BADLY. But this car was amazingly clean overall
and especially underneath for being a Minnesota car with 111700 miles. There is virtually no rust on this car and by rust I
mean rot through. She reminds me in so many ways of my 00 yellow ZX3. (Hence the title of this thread.) The only
options on this car are cruise control and A/C. Much like my yellow car only I now have cruise control instead of keyless
entry. Besides fixing the things that were wrong with her, I didn't really do much with the car through out 2014. I
just put a 2.25 flex pipe and 2.5 inch exhaust from Mandrel Exhaust Systems (Trubendz) on her. Throughout 2015
however is when she received some tasteful mods. Here is the full list:

Car
2002 Grabber Green ZX3
2.0L Zetec-stock internals
MTX-75 transmission
Exedy stage 2, 4 puck clutch
Massive Speed System lower transmission mount

Engine Mods
FSWERKS Zetec turbo kit-Currently set at 12psi, 91 octane
Tuned by Raffi at FSWERKS
Garret GT28 journal bearing turbo-.86 AR hot side
FSWERKS DV20 diverter valve
Mandrel Exhaust Systems 2.25 Flex pipe
and 2.5 inch exhaust with magnaflow muffler
Motorcraft AZFS22C spark plugs-1 step colder
FSWERKS 8mm spark plug wires-yellow

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels&Tires
Stock Suspension-new Monroe quick strut assemblies up front, new shocks in the rear
SVT brakes up front with 05 knuckles-Calipers painted yellow
05+ balljoints
Centric Rotors and Pads
Massive Speed System rear disc conversion kit-Calipers also painted yellow
Stock 16 inch wheels
205/50 Cooper CS4 touring all season tires

Interior
Innovate Motorsports MTX-L AFR gauge
Turbosmart E-boost Street EBC



Now on to the pictures!

Couple of days after I brought her home:


Notice the missing door handle.









What the shifter used to look like:



Lovely piece of work wasn't it? :lol:

That didn't last very long. I bought a good used OEM shift boot from Matt Rowe at Speedway Recyclers and
found a stock silver shift nob on ebay. I think some young punk owned this car before the old Vet I bought
it from did.

The Result:


Much better!

Now some pictures of how the car currently is.

These were taken at our local park. I like how they look:










I really like how this picture turned out.






Turbo Kit: (Please excuse the dirtyish engine bay. Need to wash. :eek:)










Old boost controller. Boost Valve generation 2



New boost controller. Turbosmart E-boost Street



Intercooler. (And dirty bumper. Damn bugs! :mad: :eek:)



SVT front brakes



Massive rear disc conversion



My gauge setup.



This car is sooo flippin fun to drive now. She just pulls when you get into boost and sounds real angry when you do.
Raffi did an awesome job tuning her. Thanks again Raffi! :thumbup: I wrote a little review on his tune
here->http://forums.focaljet.com/showthread.php/676529-Any-reviews-of-FS-Werks-custom-tunes-post-Randy?p=8086837#post8086837 so please go read it if you would like.

I'm done modding her for this year, but I'm not done with the car yet. Next year I'm looking at picking up an SVT
suspension kit, Massive rear camber and toe arms, some different wheels, probably in black, tires, and maybe
some different seats. I also plan on taking her to a body shop to fix some surface rust and so I can get rid of those
stupid plastic rocker "guards" or as I call them, RUST catchers. Plus it could use a sand down and repaint as the
paint has some scratches and rock chips (on the hood). You can tell it was daily driven, but it must not have been
in the winter because the underneath is remarkably clean. That most likely won't be next year, but some other time
down the road a bit. Will update as I progress. This car is a keeper. She will never be for sale, as long as I can still
drive stick shift. Hope you enjoyed my little post. Please comment, if you would like, and thanks for looking!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks! She is in real good shape for her age and being a former Minnesota car. The pictures actually make the paint look
better then it is. It's not bad by any means, just your typical scratches, rock chips, and little door ding dents on the sides
from being a daily driver for someone. The underneath, like I said though, is very very clean. The subframes don't have
hardly any rust on them and I can actually take bolts out of the rear control arms without getting the hacksaw out! When
is the last time you have seen that from a Focus that has been in the northern salt belt for 13 years? :lol:

Yes, I also like the turbo kit's stealthy style. You pop the hood and you can't tell it is there unless you look around.
The fact that the kit uses the stock header, wrinkle black powder coated piping and the great tune from Raffi, really make
it look and feel like this car came from the factory boosted. Very well designed and constructed. Props to Vik at FSWerks
for that. He did a good job. :thumbup:
 

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rust belt car without frozen LCA bolts? thats some kinda magic right there

I dig the color and direction youre moving with this, keep it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
rust belt car without frozen LCA bolts? thats some kinda magic right there

I dig the color and direction youre moving with this, keep it up!
Thanks. The green color has definitely grown on me. Those bolts surprised me too! Even though it was clean under
the car, I still wasn't expecting the bolts to just come right out. That really make things so much easier to work on.
 

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I absolutely love this post and this car. I dug your old Yellow car, this one is a step in the right direction. And green is always the right answer.

You've done very well by this.

- Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I absolutely love this post and this car. I dug your old Yellow car, this one is a step in the right direction. And green is always the right answer.

You've done very well by this.

- Drew
Thanks Drew! Selling my 00 zinc yellow ZX3 was a big mistake on my part and something I really do regret doing. That car has never
left my mind since the day I sold it and it played a big part in finding this one. I will not be selling this one, I promise you.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is such a sleeper. Awesome!
Thanks hEaT! That is kind of the theme I'm going with. Keep it stock looking, but there
is a surprise under neath the hood. :evilgrin:
 

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Get that thing up around 15lbs and let it eat.

Also, that beautiful IAT placement is begging for water/meth injection about 10inches south of that.

- Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Get that thing up around 15lbs and let it eat.

Also, that beautiful IAT placement is begging for water/meth injection about 10inches south of that.

- Drew
Oh yeah! I would like 15psi! But I need a built engine for that I would think. Don't want to snap the rods with too much
torque. I might do that way down the road a bit. Build the engine for longitivtiy, maybe a ported head, keep the stock
intake manifold and turn up the boost. I'm all about low-mid range torque and response so that is my reason for keeping
the stock intake manifold, even if I'm sacrificing some power. I'd be happy with 250-300whp and that much torque
I also think it wouldn't be too hard for Raffi to tune it by keeping the stock intake manifold in place. I'd have to ask him too
be sure though. That water/meth injection would be nice. I may have to look into that.
 

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I see you have a .86 exhaust housing listed. So is it a 2871 upgrade?

If so, that should be a nice slow spooling turbo and keep the torque off the midrange.

Also, if you were going to do anything, an proper intake manifold that spread the torque around would be exactly what you would want, not a bunch of upgrades and then leaving the stock intake. The opposite would work better for you. Lose a bit of a torque spike, but move the power around. Similar to what the Cosworth does for a Duratec powerband.

I wouldn't build the engine for anything under 300whp, a proper tune would be fine, stock Zetecs are stout, just keep the torque above 4k and smooth and it'll be fine.

Water meth will help no matter what, keep the car consistent, cools off IATs and bit of extra octane at all time, it's win win.

- Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I see you have a .86 exhaust housing listed. So is it a 2871 upgrade?

If so, that should be a nice slow spooling turbo and keep the torque off the midrange.

Also, if you were going to do anything, an proper intake manifold that spread the torque around would be exactly what you would want, not a bunch of upgrades and then leaving the stock intake. The opposite would work better for you. Lose a bit of a torque spike, but move the power around. Similar to what the Cosworth does for a Duratec powerband.

I wouldn't build the engine for anything under 300whp, a proper tune would be fine, stock Zetecs are stout, just keep the torque above 4k and smooth and it'll be fine.

Water meth will help no matter what, keep the car consistent, cools off IATs and bit of extra octane at all time, it's win win.

- Drew

No, it is not the 2871. It is the standard, and only turbo option that FSWerks lists on their site for the zetec turbo kit.
It has been like that since Randy left. It is a GT28 journal bearing turbo rated at 330hp, and has a .86 exhaust housing.
Here is a picture of the side of the box:




At least as far as I know it is the only turbo option. Maybe if you call in to order you can upgrade? I don't
know, but it doesn't matter to me since this is the turbo I wanted. Power starts coming on at 3000 rpms and
everything really comes alive at 4000 rpms. I was surprised myself that it had a .86 exhaust housing on
it when I received the kit. I thought it would have had a .63 housing for better spooling.

Yes, I agree with you on the intake manifold. I really do like what the cosworth does for the duratecs. If I could
find a Ford racing intake, would that suffice? The fact that an upgraded intake manifold would allow me to make
more power while keeping the torque down so I wouldn't have to build the engine, is a plus in my book.
Nice to know the zetecs are stout when you keep the torque about 4k. I trust your advise on this, since you
have been around here way longer then I have.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just got done doing a datalog for Raffi with the boost set at 11psi. AFR was good the entire run so I should be good to go.
Good lord does this car move the hell out now! :eek: I did a wot pull starting in 2nd gear after my datalog run, and I still have
traction! The tires were just starting to chirp so I guess that is a good thing right? Not bad for all season tires. It was
humid here today and will be all week, so when it cools off back into the 65-70s it should really be fun! :evilgrin:
 

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Awesome. Simply awesome.
Your car will be some inspiration for my DD build.
 

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No, it is not the 2871. It is the standard, and only turbo option that FSWerks lists on their site for the zetec turbo kit.
It has been like that since Randy left. It is a GT28 journal bearing turbo rated at 330hp, and has a .86 exhaust housing.
Here is a picture of the side of the box:




At least as far as I know it is the only turbo option. Maybe if you call in to order you can upgrade? I don't
know, but it doesn't matter to me since this is the turbo I wanted. Power starts coming on at 3000 rpms and
everything really comes alive at 4000 rpms. I was surprised myself that it had a .86 exhaust housing on
it when I received the kit. I thought it would have had a .63 housing for better spooling.

Yes, I agree with you on the intake manifold. I really do like what the cosworth does for the duratecs. If I could
find a Ford racing intake, would that suffice? The fact that an upgraded intake manifold would allow me to make
more power while keeping the torque down so I wouldn't have to build the engine, is a plus in my book.
Nice to know the zetecs are stout when you keep the torque about 4k. I trust your advise on this, since you
have been around here way longer then I have.
I'd be very curious of the spec. Telling me it's full boil by 4k means to me that it's a 2871 or 28RS. The smaller GT2560R(listed as GT28R) they used was a very small turbo with almost instant spool, almost be an on/off switch that started dwindling power around 5500rpm. And no GT2560R was ever listed as good to 330hp. Then the options of 28RS and 2871 were out there for people who wanted more. If they removed options, it was probably because they saw the most common choice and just cut it down to that. Interesting.

From what you're telling me, you should be good to go for future power goals.

I would look into water/meth now, enjoy it and use it. Tuning for it isn't necessary, as power will be gained similarly to when you drive on a cold day vs a hot day. The IAT will feed in timing naturally. That being said, you can tune for it to be a bit more aggressive and then when the tank runs empty, the IAT will see that and automatically pull out the extra timing/etc. Can make for a really fun and consistent setup. It'll also keep the bottom end alive longer, that extra octane will prevent knock(as well as prevent/clean carbon deposits which also help create knock). Even though a Zetec is stout tuned right, doesn't mean it won't pop if it sees a little bit of knock a few times.

11psi is a good number. I'd get it on a dyno and see where you are for power and where it's being produced, after that, decide to turn up the wick.

Also, I wouldn't recommend a FR intake manifold at all. I would contact NERP or Top Speed, their design does well for flattening torque and moving power north.

- Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Awesome. Simply awesome.
Your car will be some inspiration for my DD build.
Thanks Chaz! I'm really honored by your comment. I really admire your cars and what you have done to them. Nice
to know my car can be of some inspiration for you. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I'd be very curious of the spec. Telling me it's full boil by 4k means to me that it's a 2871 or 28RS. The smaller GT2560R(listed as GT28R) they used was a very small turbo with almost instant spool, almost be an on/off switch that started dwindling power around 5500rpm. And no GT2560R was ever listed as good to 330hp. Then the options of 28RS and 2871 were out there for people who wanted more. If they removed options, it was probably because they saw the most common choice and just cut it down to that. Interesting.

From what you're telling me, you should be good to go for future power goals.

You got me curious now to. I may have to email Vik and ask about where this turbo stands compared to the 2871 and the 28r.
Before Randy left, I remember seeing 4 turbo options listed for the zetec turbo kit. The base turbo was the GT28 journal bearing.
If you wanted to upgrade, the GT28R was next followed by the 28RS and then the 2871. I also remember when FSWerks was
developing the zetec turbo kit they wanted to keep the cost as low as possible, so that is most likely why they went with a
journal bearing turbo as the base turbo for the kit.


I would look into water/meth now, enjoy it and use it. Tuning for it isn't necessary, as power will be gained similarly to when you drive on a cold day vs a hot day. The IAT will feed in timing naturally. That being said, you can tune for it to be a bit more aggressive and then when the tank runs empty, the IAT will see that and automatically pull out the extra timing/etc. Can make for a really fun and consistent setup. It'll also keep the bottom end alive longer, that extra octane will prevent knock(as well as prevent/clean carbon deposits which also help create knock). Even though a Zetec is stout tuned right, doesn't mean it won't pop if it sees a little bit of knock a few times.
I may have to do that. Do you just drill and tap the piping or do you need to weld a little bung on to it? Yeah I know the stock
Zetec rods don't like knock at all.


11psi is a good number. I'd get it on a dyno and see where you are for power and where it's being produced, after that, decide to turn up the wick.

Also, I wouldn't recommend a FR intake manifold at all. I would contact NERP or Top Speed, their design does well for flattening torque and moving power north.

- Drew
I'll have to see where there is a dyno in my area. I would think there is something close by. Otherwise I know a place up in
Minnesota I can go to. Topspeed, not sure I want to do business with them. NERP...Is that Chaz Edwards? If so, does
he still make those manifolds? Thanks for the advice. Really appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That is rust free for being from here. And the LCA bolts.......damn
Yeah I know right? It's like a miracle or something! :lol: Talk about luck on my part.
I never get that lucky!
 
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