You also need reverse torx bits to get the caps off. Also... hold the cam someplace else, with a narrow wrench or cresent wrench, as well as with the bar at the opposite end. I've heard of cams being broken by just using the bar at the end.You need a few special tools first-the torx bit to remove the cam gear, a decent torque wrench, the pin to lock the crank at TDC, and a piece of flat steel to lock the cams in place-goes at the back of the cams. Be sure you have the little valve caps too-won't work without them. I would recommend getting the crank pin and steel bar first from Esslinger or FC-I forget who sells them as it ben awhile since I put mine on.
Basically, you remove the valve and timing belt covers, lock the crank in place at TDC for #1, slip the lock plate into the slot at the back of the cams, loosed the cam gear on the intake side, remove the cam bearing covers-IMPORTANT- mark which ones go where. It's important to put them back in the same place. remove the old cam. Put the little valve caps on. Suggest having a magnetic retrieving tool handy in case you drop one of the valve caps when you are installing them, oil the journals on the new cam, install it and lock it in place with the cam lock tool. NOTE-the slot in the back of the cams is slightly off center-it will only line up with the exhaust cam one way. reinstall the cam bearing caps, torque the bearing caps (sorry I don;t have torque specs-I got mine from an old ZX2 manual) then install and torque the cam gear. reinstall the belt, then the covers and you are good to go. One note-Esslinger sent me the wrong size valve caps with my new cam (twice!) so if by chance the valve caps don't fit (not likely, but you never know) call them up and have them send you the right ones.
Good luck-let me know if you have any questions.